Search Results for 'arc euro'

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

Hi Richard

                   I have the Axminster Micro-Mill X1 fitted with the long bed from Arc Euro making it the same spec as the X1L.     I bought the mill 5 years ago (on special offer at the time ), and it has done everthing i have wanted it to do with no problems at all ( touch wood ), allthough i have to say it did need stripping down and deburring of all the slideways Etc. I have recently bought a Chester Champion 20V , as i now want to do bigger items that the small one could not handle, but i would still not want to part with the X1.

             cheers Derek

Edited By magpie on 10/11/2010 20:44:53

[Billy MillsParticipant @billymills]

Graeme,

On second thought would suggest that the Arc Euro XL1 would be much better for a CNC conversion than the MF70. Much bigger table, much bigger X Y Z range and cheap spare parts readily available. It would also be better for a 4th axis. Same kind of price.

 

Regards,

Alan.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

I see ArcEurotrade are now selling high speed spindles, don’t know what they are like.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

I recently fitted my Clarke CL300 lathe with a DRO kit from Arceurotrade.

For those unfamiliar with them, these readouts fit directly to the feedsrews of the top slide and cross slide so don’t measure actual movement of the axis, but as the provided screws are accurate, the system works well.

They only have 3 buttons, which are, On/Off, Zero and inch/mm and very little in the way of instructions on how to use them, but they do read to 0.001mm!

This could be another one of my “well that’s obvious” tips, but I messed about for a day or two and you never know who else is out there that can’t see the wood for the trees.

Anyway, to my tip:

 

Take a light cut along your workpiece and carefully measure the diameter. Move the carriage clear of the job and zero the cross slide DRO. Use the DRO to then wind the slide forward a distance equivalent to exactly half the distance you’ve just measured (the radius).

Press Zero again and you’re done!

 

All readings from now on will be of the radius of the part  (ignore the minus sign), which I find much less confusing than zeroing at say 10mm diameter and having the readout display 1.375mm once I’ve reached 7.25mm diameter.

 

I find I’m using my vernier and micrometer much less after fitting this kit as it really is accurate – far better than I expected.

 

Martin.

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Terryd,

 “By the way Dino engineer, I don”t really care if the Americans prefer to stay in Pre Medieval Europe, it”s about time us who wish to join the 21st century just got on with it. I am of course talking about the inhabitants of the USA not of the majority who live in Central and Southern America”

 

Tell me, as you want to be in the 21st Century, I must assume that you only make models of Nuclear Power Stations or Fuel Cells or some other “modern” stuff, and never touch anything related to steam engines or other old technologies.

The trouble with being modern is that modern keeps changing, even the metric system. When we started going metric we did not use the SI system but  (if memory serves) the CGS one. How long before some brain box with nothing better to do comes up with a system based on references from “Lord of the Rings”or HG Wells, or to be more modern perhaps “world of warcraft”

chriStephens 

[Bernard OwenParticipant @bernardowen87680]

Hi, I need a small milling machine for light work, as I have a very limited budget I was thinking of getting a Model Super X1L Mill from Arc Euro Trade, has anybody got any experience of this machine and could give me some advice.

  Thanks. 

Edited By Bernard Owen on 28/10/2010 15:14:24

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

These from Arc Euro any good?

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Lubrication-Accessories

 

Jason

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I to have a 6″ Vertex rotary table, which I bought secound hand from an acquaintance who needed a bit of cash, it was almost new and little used. However cheaper gear does not mean “cheap”, you have to wiegh up the cost aganst usage. I believe that likes of Warco, Chester, Arc Euro Trade, Axminster ect. ect. all have good quality goods without the brand name price tags. When you do buy a rotary table, however, I would suggest getting one that you can use the optional dividing plates on, even if you can’t afford them at the same time. They are a very usefull addition.

 

Regards Nick.

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

My initial plan was to go on the Sunday but ended up going on the Tuesday. First impressions from my first ever visit to the show is that it is was smaller than I was expecting and a couple of dealers I specifically went up there to see weren’t there. I bought very little except for a few impulse buys. Had I travelled more than two hours to go there, I may have felt disappointed. One of the plusses though was talkng to John who patiently talked me through the basics of Arc Euro’s CNC mill. I’m very tempted.

Edited By Chris Trice on 20/10/2010 09:21:57

[Bob LambParticipant @boblamb44747]

Thanks KWIL and NJH – the shim washer seems to have worked but I prefer the idea of the needle thrust washers – I’ll call arceuro tomorrow and see what thy say.

Bob 

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Whilst this specifies ML7 is it also applicable to S7?

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects.aspx

 

 

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

1. Total Indicated Runout. if you hold a bar in te chuck and then measure the runout with a dial gauge this will show the TIR, 3 jaw chucks are not the most accurate and usually have a few thou TIR particularly the cheaper end of the market. This runout will cause a milling cutter to cut oversize

 

2. Its basically a bolt that screws into a thread in the end of teh tapered tooling and draws it into the socket and prevents it from comming out.

 

3. Loosen the drawbar slightly and give the end a tap with a lead or copper hammer, this will break the tapers grip.

 

4. A milling chuck is made to hold screwed shank milling cutters and prevents them being pulled out by heavy loads, often called a Posi-loc or auto-loc chuck. Er collets can hold a larger range of sizes than milling chucks which just cover the common shank sizes, Metric ER collets can also be used on imperial stock but its best to have the correct sizes.

 

5 Provided the backplate is perfectly concentric with the lateh spindle nose then it will be fine but bear in mind that if you later get a milling machine you will need a taper mounted one although the actual collets can be used in both.

 

A MT collet like these will be a cheaper option if you just want to hold a couple of milling cutters.

 

 

 

Jason

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

This Fri, sat, Sun, Mon and Tuesday.

 

Anyone going ?

 

We will be there on the Arc Euro CNC stand all show, so anyone that owes me a pint call in or failing that the White Hart at Upton after the show.

 

John S.

[Steve GarnettParticipant @stevegarnett62550]

Ah, I see. The only handles that seem to be easily available for purchase are the Arc Euro Trade ones, and I don’t think that they are as large as the originals. Might be worth trying some of the places that have supplied TS’s over the years, such as Home and Workshop Machinery to see if they have any from machines that have been broken up. Other than that, try placing wanted ads here, and on the Home Workshop site – you never know. Also there’s a Yahoo group that might be worth joining, if you haven’t already.

Edited By Steve Garnett on 10/10/2010 12:44:33

[Tim OstleyParticipant @timostley22330]

Hi,

 

Don’t forget that all these far east small milling machines will almost certainly need a complete strip down, clean, firtle and re-assemble before use. If you look at Arc Euro Trade they are up front about the need to do this and provide the details of what needs doing as well as the option for them to do it your behalf. 

 

I was looking around at the slightly larger machines and felt that having spent north of £1000 I shouldn’t have to strip the whole thing down before using it.

 

 I guess we get used to low prices without thinking that to get the price down something has to give.

 

Tim

(in sunny Mid Wales)

 

 

 

 

[DennisParticipant @dennis66942]

hi . Just converted a small bench mill to c.n.c. arc euro trade step motors every thing is up and running but having a problem with cutting a wheel spokes ,when i run the program i  think am losing steps in the z movement when the program moves from one spoke to the next by about two m/m.The motors are 36nm 1amp.The calibration and the setting up of step per unit of the z movement of mach 3 works ok.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Kenneth

 

Arceurotrade do them try here :- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Lubrication-Accessories

 

Hope that helps

 

regards

 

Norman

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl ,

               I’ve just had a look at the CL300M lathe on the machine mart site

 

the new manual shows the speed control pcb is XMT-2325 !

(arceurotrade has a picture of it in the C3 spares)

the XMT…. series of controller have been used on the milling machines for some time

 

that explains the confusion  

 

this newer type of controller uses two thyristors and three diodes on five small heatsinks

 instead of two fet’s on a large heatsink and a bridge rectifier used on the FC250J control

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 18/09/2010 20:48:10

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Hi Daryl,

I have a Clarke CL300M lathe. The spead control board on mine is type FC250J. This is printed on the board. ArcEurotrade are selling this board at £60 – see http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

Unfortunately they are currently out of stock but it maybe worth enquiring when more is due. They are a very good and reliable outfit in my experience.

Mike

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

I use these here.

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collets-Collet-Chucks/ER11-Collets-Collet-Chucks

 

Item at the bottom of the page ER11 collet chuck and hold them in a 16mm collet in either an ER32 or using the adaptor three up from the bottom these then fit in a standard Clarkson chuck.

 

Holds any size up to 7mmdrills or cutters and are bang on for concentricity.

 

John S.

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Chances are the ER holder can hold on the plain shank.

The thread will be inside the body.

To extend the FC3 cutters, do as you suggest, turn a bit of bar and then drill and ream the 6mm or 1/4 hole and drill and tap for a grubscrew.

Do it all at the same setting and all should be true.

 

Weldon should not be a problem with the light cuts taken on hobby machines but Arc Euro Trade do do some excellent holders with side locking grubscrews.

regards David

 

[PekkaNFParticipant @pekkanf]

Hello,
 
I’m new here.
 
I have mostly ER25 collets and MT3 ER-chuck for milling cutters.

ER collets seem to do a good job with plain shank tools,. But I have aqquired quite a few threaded shank (Clarkson?) cutters and Weldon cutters. Also FC3 cutters seems to work pretty well for me.
 
The problem is: I don’t feel comfortable using threaded shank/weldon/FC3 on ER collets.
 
For Weldon there are some End Mill Holders, such as:
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Milling-Cutters/End-Mill-Holders

I wonder how End Mill Holders  work with FC3?
And often I would need longer tool holder.
 
I might better of with MT3 arbor,  ream 6 mm h7 hole  to it, and cross drill a crub screw?
 
There seems to be many Clarkson type holders on the market, but they limit me only to threaded shanks, don’t they?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-auto-locking-milling-chucks-prod23576/#bottomsection

What about the TC3, they look good on paper. I haven’t got any yet, but how to chuck the “right” and is there anything I should know about them, before buying a good selection?
 
Many questions, but if I don’t try to rationalize my slot drill / end mill / chuck  situation now, I’ll end up with 1000 pcs puzzle in no time…
 
thanks,
Pekka

[Howard JonesParticipant @howardjones35282]

I located the european web site by searching the images.

I thought it was dutch but it turns out to be belgian. sorry

http://www.stoomcentrum.be/EN/SmalspoorEN/SmalrollendEN.html

is the page with the other similar Haine StPierre engine.

 

I’ll get back to adding photos after emailing the originals to the editor.

from Australia I can upload one at a time slowly so this will take some time.

you’ll get to see them all in time. just be patient.

Howard

Sir Neil Stub-Mandrel thanks for pointing me to how to do this. you’re a gem!

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

You can buy  handles from Arc Euro (and no doubt elsewhere) at between £2 and £3 each depending on size. They are adjustable to get alignmet right so save a lot of messing about. Unless you are a purist that’s the way I’d go

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Just another point. The Warco MiniMill DOES indeed have plastic gears internally. There are metal replacement gears available from Arc Euro Trade (usual disclaimer) but will be found under the C3 lathe spare parts list where they will be found as C3/X2 parts (the MiniMill is basically an upgraded X2).

 

As far as using it is concerned, there is a lot, indeed a heck of a lot, of play in the various handles, but the usual idea of going well back to take up the slop, and then come forwards seems to work. A new machine really requires a strip down, clean, grease and reassembly when delivered. I’ve seen two machines now and both required this doing to them.

 

Accuracy? Don’t know. I haven’t done much machining with them, and frankly, I’m not sure that my personal skills are good enough yet. Having said that, it has done all that I asked of it – except when I smashed the gears in the early days. (And a friend smashed his gears in less time than I did – he now has metal gears whilst I am still on my second set of plastic gears witha metal set waiting for the inevitable.)

 

I have to say that I do find milling a darn sight easier than on the lathe, but as I’ve never used a miller before, that’s not really a recommendation. 

 

I haven’t yet used it as a drill because I do have bench drill, not particularly accurate, but nevertheless a drilling machine, and until I need to do some accurate drilling, it will suffice.

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw