Search Results for 'arc euro'

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Norman,

 

I agree with you. The temperature of the equipment to be protected only needs to be kept just above that of the dew point of the air. I have connected my detached garage to the domestic heating system and am experimenting with the size of radiators at the moment and have quite a small one which seems to be doing the job. i have bought a double sensor (cheap from China of course) thermometer to use as a humidistat in order to keep the same sort of records as yourself.

 

Some folks though see insulation as the solution, when in fact heat is the solution, insulation merely slows down the heat loss for economic reasons. The reason i use plastic machine covers is that the provide an impenetrable barrier for moisture and if you dry the enclosed air you create a dry micro environment meaning that less heat is required. Polythene and silica gel are cheap and effective, and silica gel can be reactivated in a few minutes in a microwave.

 

I also recommend providing a barrier on vulnerable surfaces such as slideways by using chemical barriers such as those provided by Arc Eurotrade. These are my double insurance. My reasoning for the extra protection is that if you raise the temperature of the workshop, the dew point of the air is raised as the air can hold more moisture, so condensation can still occur in certain conditions. It’s a catch 22.

Best regards

 

Terry

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

I’d have thought that the vertical slide from Arc Euro at £60 was a good buy john.

[John ExleyParticipant @johnexley18450]

Thanks for the reply lads will have a look at arco eurotrade Peter.

 

by the way Merry Miller the lathe type was shown as the thread title have you ant ideas

 

Cheers John

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

John,

 

Since no-one else has bothered replying, try Arc Euro Trade. They advertise one at £60. Probably plus all the usual addons.

 

You could also try the other importers to see if they sell the same or similar lathe, eg Warco, Chester, Amadeal, Axminster (£74.50) etc.

 

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 07/02/2011 16:28:04

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

Since both Axminster and ArcEuro list vertical slides as accessories for the C1 – and they look identical in the catalogues – even the colour – I would think that would be a reasonable starting point. I think you’ll find quite a limited choice that will fit the C1. Most vertical slides on offer are for lathes of about 3 1/2 inch centre height such as the various offerings from Myford, Boxford etc. Provided that the vertical slide you fancy is of a size suitable for your lathe, then the only question will be how to mount it and adaptor plates are easy enough to design and make.

Keith

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello KWILL.

Hello Steve.

 

 

Just to spread the knowledge, I let here information kindly sent to me by Arc Euro Trade about the weight of 5C and ER32 chucks.

 

1 – The weight of the 5C Collet Chuck is 5kg.

2 – The weight of the ER32 Lathe Collet Chuck is 1.5kg.

 

Now I can decide.

 

Best regards

Dias Costa

 

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Steve!

 

Thank You for Your help.

 

You said:

Can’t tell you the exact weight, but I’ve had Chester’s 5C collet chuck (the key operated one) in my hands recently, and even on a backplate, it’s considerably lighter than the equivalent 125mm 3-jaw; there’s a lot less metal in it. If you wanted to put this on a rotab, I would have thought that this would be considerably easier than mounting and aligning the 3-jaw.

Fortunately You confirm my suspicions and hopes

 

You said:

I looked at the detailed spec of a decent 125mm 3-jaw chuck, and the amount of detail it goes into is considerable. But nowhere did I see any indication of the chuck’s actual weight at all. Plenty of information about how much weight it could hold, certainly, but nothing actually useful in this context!

 

I e-mailed Arc Euro Trade (AET) few days ago asking information about the weight.

Let’s hope they answer me soon.

————————————————————————————-

Several months ago I bought a 5C set of round and hexagonal collets plus some adapters. But at that time I didn’t consider the hipothesis of using it on the 150mm rotary table. Till now I only use the 5C collets with the adapters, mainly the “Stevenson’s indexing head” and the “Collet block set”.
With the purpose of applying it to the 150mm rotary table, I recently bought a ER32 collet set and a lathe collet chuck 95 diameter.
As You know the maximum diameter the ER32 admits is 20mm while the 5C set I bought admits 28mm.
In the other hand the ER32 adapter seems to me, in terms of dimensions, somewhat disproportionate (smallish) when put over the rotary table.

Best regards

Dias Costa

 

 

 

Edited By Dias Costa on 06/02/2011 14:46:06

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello CB (and all)!

 

I’m in the process to chose an chuck (or adapter) to use my 5C collets in a 150mm Vertex type rotary table.
On account of my shoulders (tendinitis) I need to make the set as light as possible and this is the reason why I’m trying to replace a 125mm three jaw chuck by a 5C collet system.
So I’ve been looking for an adapter or chuck that being lighter than my three jaw chuck also doesn’t protrudes too much from the rotating table.
The most common 5C chuck in the market is 107mm long which I dislike.
So, I would like if You (or any one knowing) tell me if there’s some alternative to the chuck – and I’m thinking in something like the ER32 Lathe Collet Chucks wich Arc Euro Trade (AET) sells.

Also, I would greatly appreciate if somebody having the 5C chuck, like the one from AET, will let me know its aproximate weight to compare with the 125mm chuck.

 

Thanks in advance

Dias Costa

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

In reply to your question I do not know as I have not tried it yet, but if you found it difficult I am sure I will too. Maybe you can show a picture of the brass gibs from Arc euro trade. I have a milling machine which I made when I was about 21 and so should be able to make the parts. Keep up the good work.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

Good to know you have a working machine

 

how easy do you find to part off ?

 

I found it difficult at first , until I fitted the brass gibs from Arc euro trade

the originals looked a little miss shaped

( If I had a miller and some brass I could have made my own )

 

 

 

John

 

 

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Jon ,

 

I assume your board looks like this

 

the two yellow relays on the left , near the terminals
form part of the interlock circuit that forces you to start at minimum speed

 

one of the common faults is the two FET’s ( on the heatsink on the right )

go short circuit and the motor runs at full speed

 

 

with the mains supply disconnected

 

if you measure the resistance between the gate and source terminals on each FET

you should be 50k (50,000 ohms)(outer 2 terminals)

 

between the drain and source should be virtually open circuit –

more than 20 M ohm (20,000,000 ohms)

 

even with a faulty speed control potemtiometer ,

the maximum speed in reverse should be about half the forward speed

 

the speed control is special 5k linear potentiometer plus a single pole switch

that you have to buy form the likes of machine mart , arc euro trading etc.

 

while it looks like the on/off and volume control on a radio

the potentiometer is linear not logarithmic and the switch is closed when fully anticlock wise

not open !

 

a new board from machinemart will be quick , but expensive

if in stock arc euro trade for example will be less expensive

 

if you decide to replace the FET’s your self

you can use two 2SK790 , IRFP450 or STW20NK50Z FET’s

 

either from RS components . Rapid online etc or ebay

 

John

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 03/02/2011 00:05:55

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Corbrae,

 

this is a perennial problem most of us suffer from. I have a detached garage which I use as a workshop (brick cavity wall and insulated ceiling) and used to get lots of condensation. I couldn’t afford to run a large enough dehumidifier. However itthe grage has had to be rebuilt after a fire and I am taking the opportunity to have a couple of large radiators linked to the household heating system which hopefully will help.

 

Of course the long term solution is prevention by modification of your building with insulation, heating, double lining, draught proofing etc etc but this gets expensive and it depends how far you wish to go and how much you can afford to spend..

However that is a rather drastic solution, in the interim there are a few simple things to try including using dessicant products and protective waxes and oils. for a relatively small layout of a few pounds you can provide a good level of protection. I have seen the Superdry products but they seem rather expensive as they are ‘one-shot’ disposable products which cannot be regenerated. As an interim solution I use impermeable plastic covers for my machines, I use heavy duty polythene, some folks advocate cotton, but as that is a good absorber of moisture personally I think not. After all if such plastic (PVC) covers are good enough for Myford, they should be good enough for me. I then keep a 100gm silica gel pack with each machine. This creates a dry micro environment around each machine, the plastic cover preventing more moisture entering.

 

Silica gel dessicant can be regenerated in the microwave in a couple of minutes and lasts for a long time. It is available in 100 gm bags on eBay for for as little as £6.00 for 5 (in. postage). You can even get some small colour change bags to keep in as well which tell you when to regeneration is necessary. Tools can be kept in drawers and cupboards, again with these bags of SG. There are products with which you can protect your equipment by coating barriers, such as waxes and oils. Some examples are shown here at Arc Eurotrade.

 

Best regards

 

Terry

 

 

Edited By Terryd on 30/01/2011 12:38:19

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Guys,

For all those who think that you can only part off successfully in the rear position, today at Ally-Pally kids as young as ten, perhaps even younger, were parting off on a mini-lathe in the normal front position. As many of you may know a mini-lathe has a slight reputation for giving problems when parting, but a properly set up (by Arc Euro, not a SMEE mechanical wizard) lathe with a half decent parting tool and a complete beginner youngster can do it. So as the old pre smoking ban expression went, “stick that in your pipe and smoke it”

Anybody who wants to see, for themselves, can come along tomorrow (Sunday, the last day), just head for the SMEE stand. For anybody who has never seen or tried a Diamond/Tangential tool working you can have a try with one, but you might have to wait till the kids have finished first.

chriStephens

[Billy MillsParticipant @billymills]

Phil

Have a look around at the UK suppliers -like ArcEuroTrade, Chester, Warco, Axminster and others- the HK company is not a manufacturer but an agent, some of the machines are very well known Chinese machines by Sieg and others and very easy to get from UK suppliers. The Sieg machines are very well described on web sites the world over.

 

Also consider the invisibles, if you deal with a UK supplier then you have Trading Standards, the Sale of Goods Act and Credit Card on your side. UK suppliers will be aware of adverse publicity and don’t want to wreck their trade so try to keep their customers happy. You can always phone them up or call in person to sort out any issues and get any spares quickly and cheaply.

 

You don’t say what you want to make! I would suggest that you get a C3 lathe or an old Myford and start making stuff. If you want more then the sale price will be around what you have paid but the education value will be far greater and you will have a much clearer idea of what you need for the future. Machine tools are a bit like religion, people have differing views. You can do worse than go to a few exhibitions, join a ME club,  scan back through the posts on the Forums or enter the portals of  http://www.lathes.co.uk. Sounds like you might be another convert!

 

regards,

Alan.

 

[Chris CrosskeyParticipant @chriscrosskey26628]

Posted by The Merry Miller on 06/01/2011 13:47:15:

It’s weird that Myford still refer to their collets as ER.

 

Anyway we’re back to my earlier post  and almost full circle now.

 

I’m with you Chris on this one.

I will not use my Myford collets for milling and will look again at the Posilock chuck and even the MT2  drawbar collets that Arc Euro sell.

 

Chris, would you use those for 1/2″ cutters?

 I’d probably go for a proper chuck for 1/2″…. I do have some cutters that look like a 10mm version of the FC3 style, they go in a morse adapter but the bigger stuff goes into the Autolocks for me… I used to have a Pozilock and it was very good, I only replaced it when I managed to get a 1 3/8″ non-stick taper Autolock for the Simplimill and it made sense to standardise on the one collet type…

 

chrisc

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Or a Clarkson Terry,

 

 third up from the bottom

 

 

John S.

Edited By John Stevenson on 11/01/2011 00:36:12

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Good point Jason about the nut, really down to personal choice.

 

I like those small ER11 chucks that Ketan sells for the little X0 mill

 

Bottom of page 

 

They are 16mm on the OD and will fit in a ER25 or 32 chuck.

This gives you the ability to hold small cutters and drills up to 17/64″ or 7mm whilst keeping the nut away from the work.

 

They do run very true, I have a spindle speeded, 1:4 increaser on the big CNC on a 40 international taper, unfortunately it has a built in Clarkson collet chuck that can’t be changed.

I use this for small drills usually 2.5mm and 3mm so I have one of the ER11 chucks with the Clarkson adaptor fitted, in fact I have about 4 or 5 to save changing cutters.

 

From the end of the spindle on the CNC to the end of a stub drill is 7″ and no runout unless we start talking silly figures I can’t measure,

 

Another thing to remember with ER collets is that 4 collets 7-6, 10-9, 13-12 and 16-15 will hold 8 sizes of cutter shanks, in fact all the popular sizes 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″ and 5/8″ plus 6mm, 10mm, 12mm and 16mm.

 

John S.

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Arc Euro Trade ER collets

Edited By David Clark 1 on 10/01/2011 12:26:53

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Actually, you can get genuine imperial ER collets from the usual suppliers in the UK as well as metric ones. Arc Euro Trade springs to mind but there are others.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Dave,

 

I’m not sure about Gun Blue, but I can recommend these protective products from Arc Eurotrade, I’ve used the wax and the liquid in an unheated outdoor workshop with good results.  Like Gordon, I use Silica Gel sachets but I have to buy them from eBay, they are not expensive.  I use normal size sachets and 100 gram bags for my machines which I keep under waterproof covers not textile ones which absorb moisture. 

 

Regards

 

Terry

 

P.S. No connection to either supplier, just a satisfied customer

Edited By Terryd on 09/01/2011 16:33:20

[adyParticipant @ady]

Is the tailstock adjustable on your unit?

 

It’s not something which occurred to me, but the intention may be to make it impossible to turn between centres because there’s no adjustment.

 

The newer arceuro units do have an adjustable tailstock.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Other option would be to contact ARC who sell the C1 and ask what they suggest, I thought that Ketan may have seen this post as he is a member.

 

J

[JonParticipant @jon]

Quite agree Chris and exactly see your point, thats why i will not ever have an ER type setup. Ok for tatting about where times not an issue.

Secondly have had to use several proper expensive sets of ER 32 and 25 plus the chinese made stuff- All the cutters drop, whats more annoying is undoing and tightening the things,they bind and grab but dont grip the cutter the same.

Total waste of money those chinese ones, worse than decent ER for binding and cutters dropping.

Cant beat those R8 collets, shame i cant use them. No dropping and can change cutter over within 5 secs!

Next best thing and similar the MT2 and 3 collets. Who ever said they will only grip the exact size is telling porkies. 10mm will grip 3/8 cutters, 3/8″ can get 10mm in.

 

As regards friction on the taper its the opposite, because of that it grips more on the cutter. Will hold tipped cutters exactly like an ER type would = lack of understanding and biasism.

 

Carefull where you buy these from they are available in different threads caught me out on small mill had to make two more draw bars 3/8″BSW and 1/2″. 10 and 12mm seem the norm now but have them any way.

Will vouch for the ArcEurotrade MT3 collets they grip and used to be cheap comparatively 11 years ago, plus you can add to the set over time.

Most of mine on bigger mill have come from Chester which i have every available size metric and imperial to hold 20mm.

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

I have just taken the motor off my machine and compared the specifications to the arc euro. It is very different and will not fit. I have also received an email from Arc euro confirming the same. Fortunately it was in time to stop delivery. Looks like I am back to Machine Mart and their £130 version. I am still waiting for some information from Little Machine Shop and Chester Machine Tools on their Motors specifications, which may be a little cheaper (but not much). Certainly turn out to be an expensive machine (could have bought a new one with what I have paid out).

 

Thanks for your continuing support,

 

Bill.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

I need to double check

 

looking on the little machine shop spares there is a 250 W and 350 W motor

for the C2 and C3 lathes I can’t find details of the phyical size

 

the FC250J controller is for a 250W motor but my lathe has a 300W motor

labled 300W  2A  220V – 240V   5000rpm

unless i’m missing some thing the numbers don’t add up

 

300/220 = 1.36A

 

 

I can not measure the physical size of my motor just now to see if the

350W motor from arc euro trading will fit

 

on the face of it  the 350W motor should overload the controller

if the motor is realy 350W  and you load it to the maximum taking heavy cuts

 

 

 John