Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Posted by David Clark 1 on 05/05/2011 16:54:41:

I use it all the time, it is now a habit.

The plastic handle came from J&L Industrial, it is the longer thread version of the 6mm threaded one.

You need a bush at the top to convert the 5/16in. clearance hole in the top of the carriage to 6mm clearance for the handle.

You also need to make a new eccentric nut but that is not a major job.

To position the metal one, I just skimmed the washer thickness until it was positioned correctly.

regards David

Edited By David Clark 1 on 05/05/2011 16:56:13

I did the same David but used an M8 metal handle from Arc Euro Trade. That way you only need to make up the eccentric lock pad for the underside. The 5/16th bolt and 8mm studding are so close diameterwise as makes no odds and it all fits fine. These handles are repositionable by lifting and turning so no need to skim the washer either in order to get the handle in the right place. Definitely one of the simplest and best mods I’ve made.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Julie ,

 

I can’t find the link at the moment , but I remember some one modding a larger version of the lathe

 

fitting a new V belt drive from a larger motor to a pulley fitted to the spindle

( the original belt drive and hi / low gears no longer used )

 

have you looked herefor ideas :– http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/Camlock_tailstock/Camlock.htm

 

the main mods I’ve done to my lathe are :–

 

1)  replacing cross and top slide  gibs withe brass ones

 

2)  replacing the spindle bearings with taper roller bearings

    note you need to make new spacers as the centre of the new bearing are offset

 

3)  replacing the plastic 21 /29 tooth spindle gear with a thee part metal one

     note the original key will only drive one gear and the spacer !!!

      until I can extend the keyway I have a non standard key

 

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/C3_BC/pages/index.html

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares

 

John

 

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 06/05/2011 19:13:17

[Gordon AParticipant @gordona]

Greetings All.

 

On the subject of a carriage locking lever, if you are not confident enough (like me) to produce a neat little handle like NJH that will lock in just the right position; a small indexable handle from somewhere like Arceurotrade will probably be suitable.

If the handle, when locked is in the way, it can be lifted and moved to a better position without releasing the lock.

 

Gordon A

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Chronos do boring heads with a set of arbors so you can change between straight & MT. But I would suggest you get a 2″ head with MT3 arbor and then get a open MT4 to MT3 sleeve from Arc euro which will allow you to mount any MT3 tooling in the spindle. If your lathe is not the Warco and only has a MT2 tailstock then get MT2 instead.

 

If you look at my last picture you can see a between centres boring bar, the allen screw locks a HSS toolbit which could be ground as a thread form tool, this can be adjusted to make the cuts in several steps by advancing the tool out of the holder though a boring head is a lot easier.

 

Personally I would buy the steady as its going to be more use than the boring head on the lathe. This shows how the steady is used to supportthe end of a tube.

 

J

 

 

[Martin BrundellParticipant @martinbrundell]

Hi John thanks for the reply and will ring Arc Euro tomorrow about the gibs

 

However a bit lost with the sadlle info you have mentioned… bit new to lathes. I am trying to look for info now.

 

thanks

 

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Martin ,

 

my first attempts parting off on a CL300M minilathe didn’t go well

 

the tool was deflected downwards even after tightening the gibs on the top and cross slides

 

re-grinding the tool to make it thinner helped

 

but in the end ,I replaced the original bent and miss shaped low grade steel gibbs with new brass ones from Arc Euro Trade

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/Model-C3-Mini-Lathe/C3-Super-C3-Mini-Lathe-Accessories

 

I also changed the method of adjusting the plates holding the saddle down to the bed

removing the 2 jacking screws from each plate and inserting a shim to set the clamping pressure between the saddle plate and the bed

 

this link shows the original saddle clamps

 http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/modifications.htm#brass_gibs

 

I don’t know if brass gibbs are avialable for your machine but at least you need to check

the fit of the gibbs on you machine

Edited By john swift 1 on 02/05/2011 15:17:04

Edited By john swift 1 on 02/05/2011 15:18:07

Edited By john swift 1 on 02/05/2011 15:18:35

Edited By john swift 1 on 02/05/2011 15:27:04

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi mgh,

Arc Euro Trade do split point HSS-Co drills. I only have a few of these (Tapping sizes.) but they work very well.

Les.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have a requirement to make some new baskets for our Ultrasonic tank.

The old ones have now worn away on the bases with the activity.

I have been searching on the net and some of the prices for a Sq Mtr of brass mesh are frightening. One was £201 pre Sq Mtr, one I found at £48 per.

Does anyone know of a better source that can supply smaller pieces?

I have tried all the normal traders like Reeves and Arc Euro and Chronos.

 

Clive

[ScrimParticipant @scrim]

I’m having trouble posting here for some reason. I’ll try again:

 

Hi, Sorry for the delay in getting back. I agree that the error in my tailstock is excessive and I should have thought about asking for a replacement but at the time of purchase of this, my first lathe, I was a bit overwhelmed with all the other issues. Also, my experience of the number and extent of problems with my Super C3 left me expecting very little. To give an example, my first experience of improving part of my lathe was to work on the dovetail and gib in the vertical slide accessory I’d also bought at ARC Eurotrade. There was a big problem with the set screws that position the gib as their threaded holes were drilled too high so that the gib sat not flat against the opposing dovetail surface, but tilted at an angle. The result was that the gib made only a line contact with the dovetail face instead of pressing on it with its whole surface. I questioned the boss, Ketan, at ARC Eurotrade about this. He passed on his top mechanical chaps opinion that it wasn’t worth trying to fix this problem on the vertical slide. I ignored this and redrilled/tapped three new holes and then a few spent days with silicon carbide grits lapping the dovetail/gib surfaces together and it now has a truly superb action.

After that experience I could easily understand why ARC’s preparation service for my Super C3 included redrilling/tapping the set screws for my cross slide gib – it clearly had the exact same problem! I also noted the same saddle gib screw fix on the Super C3 shown on ‘The Society of Model and Experimental Engineers’ (SMEE) stand at the Alexandria Palace Model Engineering show earlier this year, so sadly it seems they mass produce them with this fault as standard! Ketan says it’s a long hard slog getting them over in China to improve anything. The guess is that the jig they use to drill the set screw holes is out by millimetres due to extreme wear. Operating a wobbling drill press sitting with it on bare unsurfaced ground is a potential cause! I should point out that some parts are made exactly accurate as as far as my new Mitutoyo caliper can tell, so the range of machining quality very variable.

Returning to the tailstock: I decided to practice my intended technique for hand grinding the saddle to fit the bed by grinding the lower section of my tailstock to fit the bed first. As supplied it only made contact at one point on each of its three contact faces so there was plenty of room for improvement. Having already begun this regrinding I don’t feel in a good position to ask for it to be replaced and anyway, I’d just have to repeat the very laborious bed fitting again (you do it with cut strips of silicon carbide sandpaper…).

OK, so this situation is a joke, but on the other hand I got a compact lathe with the new quite sophisticated high torque at low revs speed controlled motor for a small fraction of the cost of something like a Myford, which would be too big for me anyway. The best way to get the Chinese to get their act together is for some other up and coming county to outclass them at a competitive price. Meanwhile people will grin and bear it as alternatives are limited when so too is cash.

Thanks for all the input. I’ve had a suggestion that after checking everything else I might lower the headstock instead of raising the tailstock and this would certainly result in a much tidier solution that I’d foreseen, so I may follow that course.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

I have successfully arc welded broken square sockets back together in the past. My welding skills are adequate -, at best, so its a pretty practical proposition. Needs a steady hand and concentration. A decent inverter style welder, like my Fronius, is a great help as its much easier to exploit small rods. But I did the first one with the SIP 140 buzz-box I had previously. Albeit with considerably more verbal encouragement.

 

A simple corner crack isn’t too bad to stitch back but if you have to replace a completely broken away side a good deal of care is needed to avoid getting significant quantities of weld inside the square. For the third one I had to make a complete new side. A piece of key steel in the remains of the socket helped teach things manners and careful attention to piece overlaps helped me get things together without welding the key steel in place. I did have to do a fair bit of filing round the outside tho’. Diamond files are nice for this sort of thing. Arc EuroTrade gave me a set of small “store in the handle” ones as a freebie with an order which are far better than the price indicates and very useful for jobs like getting inside the square. Heck, when they wear out I’ll probably buy some more!

 

Clive

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

Gentlemen

Having aquired a pulse jet I found that the insulator on the spark plug was badly chipped, the plug is composed of 5 pieces, 2 parts are the main body 1 ceramic insulator and a 2mm central condutor and screw on cap, being a model engineer doesn’t mean I have loads of money but I have an enquiring mind (something my school teachers regarded as a nuisance in my day), anyway back in my early days as a TV engineer we used 10 watt wirewound resistors which have a ceramic body, I just happened to find one with a 2mm hole right through the middle, I made a 2mm mandrel to hold it place between the chuck and the rotating centre and turned down the outside to 4mm using a dremmel mounted on the topslde with a diamond grinding wheel going at slow speed and using the leadscrew and 5thou cuts, the reason I did it this way was because the last one I made got crushed in the chuck because it was so fragile at that size. I did think about alternative materials but as the body of a pulse jet gets a bit hot I thought ceramic should be ok, and yes I know pulse jets are banned but all I will do with this one is run it up for a few seconds for the hell of it and then flog it.

ps Diamond bit sets from Arc Euro Trade, indispensable in my book, no connection but a satisfied customer.

[MikeParticipant @mike89748]

About 3 years ago I bought a Clarke CL300, which I believe is similar to the Seig. I had terrible problems in aligning the tailstock, which seemed to settle in a different position by a couple of thou every time it was clamped to the bed. Eventually I bought the camlock tailstock from Arc Euro Trade. It fitted, spot on, straight out of the box, always clamps in good alignment, and I can now turn, parallel to within about half a thou over the full length of the bed. Makes me wonder if there aren’t a few “rogue” tailstocks about.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Posted by Jeff Dayman on 14/04/2011 16:00:41:

Now that you mention it Richard, the last stuff I bought for the purpose was not labeled ‘sand’, I think one bag was labeled “nepheline syenite” and the other was called “aluminum oxide garnet”. I sure am glad the miners/makers labeled these complex chemicals because I woulda thought for sure they were sand otherwise.

 

Respirator is always handy in my shop for jobs like ___ blasting. I don’t want to breathe paint dust or any other mineral I am spraying around during the ops.

 

JD

 

Hi Jeff,

 

While you may think that aluminium oxide is ‘sand’, it isn’t. The sand which was banned was silica sand and of course you wouldn’t have any problem with that would you?

 

Quote:

“Silicosis, also known as Potter’s rot, is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in forms of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. It is a type of pneumoconiosis.^“

 

No problem there then, Hope your respirator is up to it.

 

By the way, nepheline syenite has a very low silica content.

 

Hi Chris,

 

I don’t think that the problem is with drinking dichloromethane, after all one didn’t have to drink CTC for it to rot the kidneys.

 

Quote:

Acute exposure by inhalation has resulted in optic neuropathy and hepatitis

 

So what if you go blind or get jaundiced as long as your paint is stripped (apart from the possible carcinogenic problems) , but I agree that there are plenty of plebs to put to work and there are lots to spare, after all that’s how the Victorians viewed it didn’t they. It’s a good philosophy, unless you are the one being stuffed up a chimney or between the moving parts of a spinning machine to de-fluff the needles. Damned H&S, they spoiled many a good profit making capitalist enterprise.  Oh, and I wouldn’t worry about finding a nubile etc to ‘impregnate’,  – dream on.

 

Happy Easter

 

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 14/04/2011 21:57:41

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Graham.

I have an Optimus BF20 milling machine that is in many ways similar to that SIEG presented in Your message.

For that BF20 milling machine I built a simple automatic feed from a stepper motor I bought from the firm ArcEuro Trade (220Ncm – 10mm Shaft – Hybrid Stepper Motor) and a controller that avoids the use of computer I bought from the firm acquired QuasarElectronics (http://www.quasarelectronics. com / motor-controller-drivers.htm) ref. 3179 – Standalone / Computer Controlled Unipolar Stepper Motor Driver.
I installed a double pulley on the motor shaft(one having diameter twice the other) and another double pulley (both with same diameter) fixed to the handwheel and with the very same diameter. A V-belt transmits the motion from the engine to the handwheel (obviously should be a toothed belt…).
I have not had the opportunity to make a box to install the electronic board, the potenciometer and switches in adecent way. So I continue to use the little switches on the board to change the direction of movement and the small knob to change the speed of the stepper motor (although the knob is not very sensitive).
The stepper motor is mounted on a flat aluminum plate and fastened by the same screw that holds the top of the table of the router to said table. So I had not make any changes to the milling machine, with the exception of three 3mm holes in the left side handwheel. The set is completely below the table and not disturb in any way the milling operation. Both handwheels are also operational and when used with stepper motor disconnectd I can feel the steps in the motor wich is almost always usefull in controling manual movements.
If You are interested I can show some photos of the system, although I’m not particularly proud of its unfinished state and uglyness.

I’m only a satisfied consumer from the referred firms.

Best regards

Dias Costa

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

Donald,

With me not being a machinist [I’m a bricklayer] I find these forums very useful

in pursuit of my hobby note that I used the word hobby, Although my brother [who incidentally is a foreman turner] he usually keeps me right. In fact if you would give people a chance then you would see that guys with more experience than me really have a lot to offer. Having said that there was a couple of posts on some other like forum that advocated adjusting the camlok studs on a chuck to get it to run true [slacken some and tighten the others I asked the brother about that and he informed me that such a move was a no,no Then there was another that turned the register on his backplate about 0.5mmØ less than his chuck register and used it as a sort of settrue again I was informed no,no.

In regard to the Chinese lathes that you so evidently dislike I purchased from new in 2000or 2001 a Warco GH750 centre lathe and it is still working a treat I have only ever had to replace a light bulb and print out new markings for the front panel as coolant had taken it’s toll on them. I did straight away replace the 240v single phase motor with a 240v 3 phase 3Hp Siemens unit and a Eurotherm 650vfd drive. and the machine is still a treat to use and far more accurate than me. I also could not resist the purchase of a lathe that you would surely approve of a Dean Smith and Grace 17t

Sorry for going on a bit but you really must give folks a chance.

Raymond.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Ray,

I noticed the other day that Arc Euro Trade are selling screened power cable and mains filters to go with their high speed spindles. (Which use an inverter.) Chris’s idea about using a battery operated radio to identify whether the interference is coming from the leads from the inverter to the motor or from the mains lead to the inverter is a good one. This will help you to decide whether to try screened cable first or a mains filter. From the schematic of the filter it should not cause problems with tripping an RCD.

Here is the link to the relevant section of the Arc Euro website.

 

Arc Euro high speed drives.

 

Les.

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Ray,

Is the interference on a battery or a mains radio? If mains it could be interference going down the ring main. This can (?) be fixed with a line filter like the one Arc Euro sell . If battery radio then you will probably have to shield the VFD and motor feed.

I admit to not being an expert on the subject, so no complicated questions please.

chriStephens

 

This was being written while Kwil posted his reply, but it still holds true.

Edited By chris stephens on 17/03/2011 19:44:19

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Posted by KWIL on 27/02/2011 12:31:20:

e13 Magneto bearings are 13mm OD, try http://www.akbearings.co.uk Arc Euro Trade has e6. I do not know about Unimat belts.

 

 

Hi Kwil, I think you ment to say that the ID is 13mm, i.e. the bore. The OD being 30mm and the width 7mm.

 

Most bearing distributers supplying industry should be able to supply you with any available bearings and most of them accept cash sales.

 

Regards Nick.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

e13 Magneto bearings are 13mm OD, try http://www.akbearings.co.uk Arc Euro Trade has e6. I do not know about Unimat belts.

[Peter GainParticipant @petergain89847]

Like Ramon, I decided to replace the single ph motor on my Myford Super7 with a 3ph one. As the machine has a clutch I wished to leave the motor running between operations & while “miking” etc. The existing motor produced more noise than I cared for.

I obtained a conversion set from one of the advertisers in ME. The motor was an Indian made product. To me it seemed too noisy & emitted an unpleasant high pitched whine.

The supplier exchanged it for another. This was just as bad & was returned. A 3^rd one produced the same unfortunate noise. To his credit, the supplier gave me a full refund for the price of the motor. I retained the inverter & remote pendant.

Some surfing & e-mails revealed that these Indian motors are imported by at least 2 different companies. One, Massey-Coldbeck, supplies them branded as Greaves-Crompton & are marked “Made in India”. This was the first motor I tried. Another importer brands them as “BFM” (Beatson Fans & Motors), they are not marked with the country of manufacture.

 

Surfing showed that good quality FHP electric motors emit between 47dB(A) & 50 dB(A) on no load at 1mtr. Testing the supplied Indian motors the average noise was recorded as 56dB(A) to 58d(BA), on no load at 1mtr.

Massey-Coldbeck stated that they have supplied over 3000 of these motors with very little adverse feedback. It transpires that many of them are used to drive extract fans in chip fryers in fast food outlets. Not surprising that noise complaints do not feature.

A company trading as “Electric Motors2Go” offer 3ph FHP motors which they claim are “made in European community”. But the illustration clearly shows a BFM branded product which has been confirmed by BFM as being made in India. I e-mailed Tony, the owner/manager of Electric Motors2Go pointing out the obvious discrepancy & asked for his comments. He declined to answer. (From 1^st of March advertising on the internet will be subject to control by the Advertising Standards Authority).

I gave up trying to source a new motor made EU/USA/Australia. (So far as I can ascertain there are no motors made in the UK). I finally obtained a second hand motor from Myford. It is a well made Brook Crompton Parkinson (Hawker Siddeley) product supplied in the maker’s original box. It was made in Doncaster before the Tyco take over & is built up to a specification rather that being made down to a price to suit the accountants. When running it has that indefinable quality purr rather than a harsh grating noise. The average sound level produced is 47dB(A).

Ramon refers to the high quality of the Italian made motor. Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an easy way to mount a metric motor onto a Myford.

I accept that I may be too fussy & make too much of the noise level, others may be more tolerant. But to fit a cheap motor to a Myford is analogous to installing a Ford diesel engine into a classic Rolls-Royce.

Regards, Peter Gain.

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Arc Euro do concertinas in a couple of sizes. Might be worth a look.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

How about wrapping them in VPI (Vapour Phase Inhibitor) paper or storing them in a container with a tin of VPI. ARC Euro (usual disclaimer) sell it as Toolguard.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Jon ,

 

C2-FC250J is the Arc euro trade part number a combination of the

lathe and pcb number

 

the actual number Sieg part number is FC250J/230V

 

Machinemart usually have it instock but is likely to be £80 or £90

 

note —- the latest boards used in the CL300M is XMT2325

the manual with the revised wiring can be dovnloaded from this page :–

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/download/cl300m.pdf

 

the XMT2325 controller has an additional over current protection circuit

 

other possible UK suppliers are Warco and Chester machine tools

but I’ve not ordered from them.

 

John

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Jon ,

 

The new boards use surface mount components that are more difficult to replace.

so i’d keep your old board as it could be a spare when you have time .

 

I’ve have , but the only person I know that repair boards as a business , doesn’t repair boards with surface mount components.

 

see http://www.repaircontrol.com

 

replacement pcb :– Arc Euro Trade part number C2-FC250J-PCB

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C2-Mini-Lathe-Spares

 

 

John

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Jon ,

 

the first thing I’d do is test the board without the motor

don’t forget all the board is live

 

first with a 100W (or 60W) gls bulb in series with the live supply

this acts as a current limiter if D1 (FR307) , C1 (4n7F 2000V ) or the bridge rectifier( KBPC1010 ) are short circuit – eco compact flourescent bulbs don’t work for this test

and a 15W bulb in place of the motor.

 

if the board is working you should be able to control the brightness of

the 15W bulb / dummy load

note the 15W bulb may just glow at the minimum speed setting

 

next if that worked connect the mains as normal and test with the 100W bulb

as the load.

passing this test points to the motor (or too small a fuse)

 

if you have no control and the 15W bulb is at full brightness

 

check C2 ( 4n7 600V) , D2 ( FR109) and the FET’s are not short circuit

 

for testing with the bulbs you can first remove C2 , ( removes C2,D2 and R42

from the circuit)

next lifting one end of R9 (1k8) will remove any voltage switching on the fets if

the opto isolators or the PWM control is faulty.

may save removing the FET’s if they are OK

 

Arc euro trade are selling the new SMT boards for £60 if you need a quick fix

once the motor is tested

 

John