Myford VMC Spindle Advice Please.

Myford VMC Spindle Advice Please.

Home Forums Manual machine tools Myford VMC Spindle Advice Please.

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  • #851716
    Michael Gilligan
    Participant
      @michaelgilligan61133

      I hesitate to even mention the possibility, but here goes:

      Is it feasible that the previous owner suffered a “crash” which ever-so- slightly bent  the quill ?

      … that would explain a lot.

      MichaelG.

      #851718
      Nigel Graham 2
      Participant
        @nigelgraham2

        Thankyou Graham.

        I will examine the quill’s fit and movement carefully. I’ll turn the top on its side as you suggest to make this easier.

        I’ve not seen any sign of damage, and the quill was always stiff but seems to have worsened lately. It would not move under its own weight with the pinion, lock and depth-stop all removed. I saw the edge of the interpenetration between the quill and lock bores was very sharp, and I eased that a touch with a fine file.

        One edge I examined carefully is the top of the quill, for any sign of burring or bruising. There wasn’t any.

        Err, you can’t readily refer back up-thread once on a new page, but someone asked if a previous owner had managed to bend the quill. That would have to be a hefty crash! There is no evidence for that, nor of over-enthusiastic lock-tightening. Doing that would more likely break the lock itself, perhaps snap its small handle, than harm the major components. No sign of damage to the rack and pinion teeth.

        The quill has no external lubrication point, so could well be stuck on glue that was once grease. I’ll clean everything thoroughly with white spirit before trying the quill back in the head.

         

        I succeeded in removing the lower bearing, with the aid of a hide mallet, but more to the point having chilled the spindle using a plumber’s pipe-freezing kit. The blurb says it will cool down to -50ºC: I can’t vouch for that but it certainly created an impressive frost halo on the steel.

        The worn-out locating-pin turned out to be a tiny grub-screw. Identifying it was hard but it seems to be 6-32 or 6-40 ANC. I was surprised because the spindle is all to nice tidy millimetre measurements, I found when I measured the bearing and shaft. Metric screws don’t fit properly; 4BA fits rather sloppily.

        The spindle appears unhardened and it may be feasible to convert the pin to the slightly larger M4, easier to obtain and compatible with its metric home. An M4 screw does nestle in a collet’s keyway. I’d wondered about even moving it to above the bearings; though hopefully once the machine’s back in action that will become my executor’s problem!

        The bearing is an SKF, its number partly illegible, but I will contact Townsend Bearings about a replacement, and take it with me so we are sure. It seems to have a very slight rough point but I probably damaged it trying to remove it. Had I been unable to remove it at all I would have found an engineering-services company (possibly Townsend) or HGV garage able to carry out the work.

        The thrust bearing is fine: that is not held tightly to the shaft so comes off easily, and shows no sign of harm. The top bearing similarly turns smoothly.

         

        I’ve wondered why the pin / grub-screw became so mangled. My guess is insufficient draw-bar tighting so the pin became a drive key rather than to aid tightening the bar; and once it started to wear the problem worsened. It still seems a curiously weak detail. I’d expected a rectangular key held by a small screw.

        #851773
        Graham Meek
        Participant
          @grahammeek88282

          I have been trying to find the photograph taken of the part of a broken tap that I removed from my Myford spindle, but to no avail.

          It was not uncommon on the machines from the Far East during the late 70’s early 80’s to have Metric threads and Imperial sockets and vice versa.

          From memory the keyway in the R8 collet is 5/32″ wide x 3/32″ deep. I would be more inclined to tap the spindle M5 and turn a spigot onto an M5 thread. Using a Hacksaw to put a screw driver slot to screw it in with. Play it really canny and only use the front portion of the taper tap. Screwing the key into a tight thread will stop it rocking when the collet is tightened and loosened. Otherwise use some Loctite stud retainer.

          Be sure to check all the tooling that goes in the spindle to make sure the key is not too proud before you reassemble everything.

          A small hole just above the fully home position of the quill would provide an access for oiling purposes. Bridgeport’s have an oil cup for this if my memory is right.

          Hope this helps,

          My best regards

          Gray,

           

          #851889
          Mark Easingwood
          Participant
            @markeasingwood33578

             

            On Nigel Graham 2 Said:

             

            Err, you can’t readily refer back up-thread once on a new page, but someone asked if a previous owner had managed to bend the quill.

            Nigel,

            If you Right Click where I have highlighted in green, then click on “open in a new tab” you can easily look at the post in a separate tab, and flick between reading and writing, in the two tabs.

            Screenshot 2026-06-12 223850

            Mark.

            #851893
            Nigel Graham 2
            Participant
              @nigelgraham2

              Thank you.

               

              I think it was Michael Gilligan who asked about damage in previous ownership, but I’ve not found any evidence of an accident.

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