Myford service engineer

[Nic BertelsenParticipant @nicbertelsen16379]

Hi, im trying to find out if there anyone knows of any service engineers who would be able to replace bearings on myford vmc milling machine along with giving it a good service.

Thanks

Nic

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Nic, I doubt if there is a dedicated service for these now, quite some time ago a chap from Myford Nottingham was doing service’s but long gone I think ?

Surely you can do this yourself, do you have a manual?  if not look at http://www.lathes.co.uk they have manuals for sale.

The bearings will be a standard item so once you remove them its easy to source replacements.  Also I believe Warco do or did a similar machine — others may help here.

By the way where are you located ?

John

[Nic BertelsenParticipant @nicbertelsen16379]

Hi john, thanks for reply.

Yes I’m sure i can probably manage to set up machine and am guessing I will probably have to anyway. Ive got the manual as mill has been owned from new by my grandad but he’s now passed it on to me as his eyesight failing him at 96.

He had mill setup properly for accuracy when installed by myford and as I’m planning on dismantling mill as much as possible to move it I am just slightly nervous of getting it setup again to that level of accuracy. Ie sideways square and true given my limited experience of setting up machinery

My only concern tbh with replacing the spindle bearings is getting the preload correct, however having spoke to a few companies their opinion due to lack of manufacturers data is to tighten bearings till there is no end float then monitor temperature during use and slacken/tighten accordingly

Nic

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Hi Nic, what exactly is wrong with the bearings? Also if you are moving the mill as one piece there will be little to set up initially apart from setting the quill square to the table [usually called tramming] and setting the fixed vice jaw in line with the table travel.

Tony

[Nic BertelsenParticipant @nicbertelsen16379]

Hi Tony, bearings are very noisy and lumpy when rotating by hand. Despite this there isn’t actually any play in them but id prefer to replace before there is.

With regards to moving , unfortunately it’s not practical to move in one piece as location its going has poor access so will have to break mill down into about 4 sections then rebuild in it’s new site

Nic

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Nic, I just looked at Warco and their VMC is 415kg [8cwt] it depends on how far you have to move it, what the situation is at both locations –Grandad’s and your home, what’s the access like, what kit do you have or can get etc etc.

As machines go its heavier than some home shop machines but overall not that heavy we have moved a Bridgeport in one piece a few times and it’s double the weight but we have the kit to do it.  Your job is not for muscle alone !

Your location may help someone to make a suggestion for assistance to move the machine safely town/county?  There is a chap I have heard of called “Landyman” I think who moves machinery etc but I don’t have any details – maybe someone on the forum will know.

John

 

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Nic, This link may be of interest for the bearings,  lots of other info available of course !

https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/insight/what-is-meant-by-preloading-a-bearing/

Should have read you last post regarding access ! clearly its restricted !

John

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Does anyone know of anybody who does this kind of work?   Must be plenty of people who aren’t up to moving heavy machines themselves or doing major repairs.

Maybe another victim of the march of time!  When original Myford shut down some ex-employees offered servicing, but that was years ago.   I don’t recall seeing anyone advertising recently?

Possibly new machines are installed and maintained by manufacturers on support contracts, and replaced when bearings fail because that likely means the whole machine is approaching commercial end-of-life.  Accountants are quick to declare “Beyond Economic Repair” because it’s cheaper to swap old machines for new – downtime costs a fortune whilst machines are being repaired.   Firms often lease rather than buy tools for the same reason – when the machine goes wrong the lease company fixes or replaces.

Possibly third-party machine menders have disappeared because they don’t get much work, caught between businesses who replace and Model Engineers who maintain tools themselves?

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Not sure if Darren & Pete are still doing it but they are ex Myford employees and will come out to service lathes and I expect they could do a mill to.

[email protected]

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

FWIW, my advice would be not to disassemble the machine anymore than you have to, to minimise the risk of difficulties in restoring accuracy when installed and reassembled.

Remember that the machine is likely to be unstable so be VERY careful when moving it, and DO strap it securely to the pallet.

If it topples over it won’t improve the machine, could severely injure you if you get in the way.

Have never used him, but “Landylift” seems to have a good reputation.

Ask those who HAVE used his services.

Howard

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

If you feel that you could do the job yourself, it would make things much easier if you could make some tubes to help fit the new bearings on to the spindle and quill. The numbers on the bearings and the size in inches and or mm should be recorded and an online bearing specialist such as “the bearing boys” will be able to supply good quality bearings. Hopefully the bearings will be taper roller so that the inners and outers can be fitted separately. I would recommend a common lithium based high melting point grease from any car parts shop. Only pack in enough grease to 1/4 fill the space in the quill, around each bearing, the bearings only require a tiny ammount and overfilling is bad for bearing life. The preloading is simple, just tighten the nuts at the top of the spindle (left hand threads normally) until the loose side play is just gone and run for a quarter of an hour at high speed. The quill and spindle should be no more than luke warm. If still cold tighten a little and if hot slacken slightly, and let things cool down before retesting. If there is a lock washer between the nuts only lock it fully when you have finished testing.

[Nic BertelsenParticipant @nicbertelsen16379]

It would be my preference not to disassemble but as I said access issues are the main problem. Im a farmer so have access to jcb telehandler and have engine crane etc so it’s not lack of equipment that’s the problem,  it’s getting it into my workshop at my end as very narrow gateway at side of house then 7 steps up to lawn, then across grass to my workshop.Im based in suffolk and mill is currently about 45 miles away, local company wanted 2k to move it.

With regards to the servicing I did email Darren but sadly no response, another company quoted £1550 plus vat for 1 engineer for a day.

Funnily enough it’s actually Acorn that I ordered the replacement bearings from and have read there guides but thanks for the link. Im fairly happy with process of rebuilding the spindle now having spoken to multiple companies so think I will tackle that myself.

With rge exception of the 2907 thrust bearing the others are all sealed bearings not taper

 

[Nic BertelsenParticipant @nicbertelsen16379]

Just incase anyone interested this the drawings of quill.

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

Unless it’s got built in power feeds as some mills have, the others including your Myford are a simple collection of parts. I wouldn’t think twice about pulling it to pieces. While I don’t know about your exact mill, I suspect you want to remove the hand wheels, feed screws and then the gibs. Then slide the table out onto something close to the correct height. I’d also bag each set of hand wheels, dials and any screws and mark each bag for which end of the table if came off of, and for the Y axis. Time spent doing so is repaid later with no questions about where each part goes. Removing the knee is a bit more complex, so if possible I’d leave it attached.

As far as re-indicating it back in after the reassembly. Again that’s just a bit of technique, some time, a plunge type dial indicator, or better imo, a .0005″ or .0001″ lever type dial test indicator. Anyone that understands how to use the mill or replace the spindle bearings should have no issues replicating the accuracy your grandfather did. And that part removal is an excellent time to solvent clean those feed nuts, feed screw threads and the way surfaces. You might be surprised at how much smoother everything operates after that.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

I would think that you would need very little preload with those bearings. There is something between the bore of the quill and the top of the outer race of the 6207ZZ (35), but no mention of any shims in the parts list. It might simply be the way the diagram was drawn.

If you can start by fitting the 6207ZZ to the spindle by only pushing on the inner race, and then lubricate and fit the thrust bearing. Then fit the top bearing 6206ZZ (33) to the quill pushing only on the outer race. Then fit the spindle assy to the quill pressing on the outer race of the bottom bearing, the spindle should not be a tight fit in the top race.

Washer 30 may have an inner bit to sit in a keyway in the spindle followed by nut 12 which may not need more than 1 ftlb torque. Hopefully you will be able to find some information about preloading which may not be the same as taper rollers.

Check the pully bearings while the mill is in bits.

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

Nic Bertelsen – I have sent you a PM.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I note that the bearings are ZZ this means they are shielded on both sides, keeps contamination out but makes lubrication an issue. Check that one or possibly both shield have not been taken out when new, if so do the same, pick them out with a small screwdriver. They are also I fancy ordinary deep groove ball races not angular contact so the issue of pre load is interesting. Good luck. Noel.

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