Search Results for 'arc euro'

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Nigel,

Like many people on this forum, I find ArcEuro to be a fair, informative and neutral supplier. Also like many, I make use of their preparation guide which describes the areas where grease is applied. This is part of their preparation service.  I followed the guide and would hope that it isn't going to be detrimental to the machine. As I understand, Ketan of ArcEuro has a background that should qualify for compiling the guide, which has been around since 2007 and there has been plenty of time for thorough peer review.

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 16/06/2012 11:23:00

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Posted by EtheAv8r on 10/08/2011 16:55:22:

Not that I am any expert, but if I were going to buy a small mill, it would be the Super X2 Plus from Arc Euro, and as a beginner get the preparation service so it is all set up and ready to run on delivery.

When I was still deciding what to get, if I had gone for a manual mill, it would have been the Sieg Super X3. However I went mad and got the KX3.

I agree. I would also add that Arc have the advantage of excellent access to spares, in depth relationship with the manufacturer and fundamental understanding and experience of the Sieg machines they stock. AND they are the only outfit I know of who regularly engage with their customers in forums such as this…ie they don't run and hide once they have your cash.

[Phil AshmanParticipant @philashman88468]

I've had a WM16 for two years now, and it's given no trouble at all. I've never had a blown fuse. It's accurate, the slides are silky smooth, and it's done everything I've ever asked of it.

I agree with Charlie about the "chewing gum" rubber cover though, mines just the same. Arc-Euro do some flexible bellows that might fit. I was also delighted with the little green box, and also the two tins of touch up paint that it contained, which in my case had just a bit of semi-solid goo in the bottom.

But I could certainly recommend it on the basis of my own experience.

Phil

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Alex DU PRE on 10/08/2011 21:01:59:

Hi, I have an X3 milling machine from Arc Euro Trade. If you are interested, I have a short review of it on my personal model engineering website, http://www.amdcustom.com.

Just follow the link under Equipment Reviews.

I would also add to the review, that even a machine this size (500W motor, or so), REALLY struggles to drive a 10mm cutter through steel at anything like a decent depth of cut. It's pretty good with aluminium. You either need patience or a bigger machine if you want to do serious metal removal!

 

I hope this is of some interest.

 

Alex.

Hi Alex,

The Super X2 Plus (SX2P) has a brushless DC motor and belt drive. The X3 standard (not the Super X3) has a 600w brushed DC motor with belt and gear combination. When it comes to torque, I will stick my neck out and say that the 500w brushless motor on the SX2P with belt drive has a better torque than the standard X3. However, the working envelope on the X3 is greater.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 12/06/2012 20:28:58

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Peter G. Shaw on 10/08/2011 15:26:16:

Might be worth looking at Arc Euro Trade's new Sieg Super X2 plus mill at around £515.

 

These use a new 500W motor (350W originally) and the larger table from the X1 series mills Arc supply. Also, they don't have the two-speed gearbox, using instead electronics for a speed range of 100-2500 rpm. Which suggests that they may not be affected by the gear breaking problem or the electronic failure problem.

 

And if you go for their preparation service at £155 (£670 total) then you should be assured of a reasonably good working machine right from the start.

 

Anyway, good luck in your quest,

 

Peter G. Shaw

Hi Peter,

The Super X2 Plus has a 500w brushless motor, with a belt drive. No two-speed gearbox. A lot more quieter then the standard gearbox version, and a lot more torque. Also, to add to your earlier comments, the fixed column is far more rigid, with box section being approximately 10mm thick, as opposed to the standard 4mm thick column used on standard X2s. It took me a long time to convince SIEG to do this. 

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 12/06/2012 20:28:31

[Doug CookParticipant @dougcook19358]

Just for reference

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/

Can supply any length of any type (almost!) of belt and pulleys, not to mention bearings etc.

(usual no connection except happy customer etc etc)

B.t.w. I've just put the Arc euro trade metal gears in as replacements for the nylon ones( Amadeal xj12 300) I also changed the main bearing for the taper roller bearing (arc) the only mods being a change of spacer in the head, to keep the gears in the same place.( the upper face of the new bearing sits 1 or 2 mm lower) I used the plain section of the larger nylon gear, parted to the right length as a spacer.

The new bearing has reduced the run out from 0.10mm to 0,01 mm

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Posted by Martin W on 27/05/2012 19:30:56:

Martin

If you find a suitable RC brushless motor then another cost that hasn't been covered would be that of a suitable power supply. As I indicated the RC motors and controllers are designed to run from supplies with outputs in the range of approximately 10 to 40 volts therefore they require relatively high currents which can be in excess of 100 amps. The cost of a power supply that can supply 30-40 volts at around 60-80 amps plus is not going to be cheap .

That is why the variable speed motors commonly used in lathes and mills, both brushed and brushless are typically designed to run from much higher voltages. Effectively rectifying the supply voltage means that there is not a need for expensive power supplies, the electronics is only required to switch/control comparatively low currents and the I2R motor losses are reduced. A Win Win situation if there isn't a size restriction and there are relatively high voltages available to hand.

Have you tried to price the bits you want from Arc?

Cheers

T'other one

Martin (T'other one).

You might be right about trying Arceurotrade for the parts.

I'll phone them tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again for your help.

Martin (blowlamp).

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Thanks for the replies chaps.

The motor pictured on the machine here would be an ideal candidate as far a physical size is concerned, although at 500 watts rating it's more powerful than I think I need. Let's just say that if I could buy that and its driver then I'd be sorted. It also looks like it might comply with some standard (NEMA?), which would help me with making the parts that will be bolted to it.

I have looked at the RC motors and they must surely have uses in the model engineering workshop environment, but I haven't seen one that I'd be able to use for my application, as the motor needs to be sealed from swarf and robust too, because it's going to get handled quite a lot.

Martin.

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Indeed I did read and understood the original post when I posted that Arc Eurotrade supply the "proper stuff". What Ian should realise is that forums like this lead from one person's question to another and it is quite possible that people who do have access to a reliable postal service may not know a source of the commercial product.

If I were in Clive's position I would perhaps chance the postal service however unreliable with such a low value item.

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Stuarts Micrometer Blue can be purchased from Arc Eurotrade £4.75 for a 32g tube that will last you a lifetime.

[Nyrup BoeghParticipant @nyrupboegh48678]

Hi

I have just bought a small mill (Sieg X2+)

I have bought several books from the Special Interest Model Books series. They are verry good. Amongst the books i have bought is several by Harrold Hall. I am reading "Milling – a complete course" and "The Milling Machine". I have just made my first clamp pr. the instructions in the milling cource book.

I have 3 endmills: 3mm, 5mm and a 10mm. In the clamp I have to make a slot 8mm wide. I made it by drilling an 8mm hole in each end of the slot and milled out the in between using the 5mm and gradually widening the slot to 8mm. I am thinking of buying an 8mm endmill in a lokal shop in Brovst here in Denmark. The endmills I allready own i bought at Arceurotrade. But I am not shure which one to choose. The lokal shop has both 2 and 3 and 4 flute cutters. What is the benefit from each? What is the difference in practical use? Why are endmills cutting oversize and slotdrills not? How do they differ?

I have searched the forum and found this thread:

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=45899

but I do not find the answer to my question in the thread – at least I am not shure the answer is in the thread.

Does someone have a link to an explanation on the net or in MEW (I am a digital subscriber to MEW).

Kind regard, Nyrup.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Just been thinking about this again…

I take it that the Arceurotrade 80 div dials and 2mm pitch feedscrews are graduated as something like:-

12 O'clock = 0/2mm, 3 O'clock = 0.5mm, 6 O'clock = 1mm and 9 O'clock = 1.75mm, rather than just numbered from 1 to 80.

Anyone know for sure which way they've done it?

Martin.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

I decided to contact Arceurotrade to find out about their equivalent machine.

I have been told that the feedscrews fitted to the Arceurotrade machine are of 2mm pitch and the dials have 80 divisions, so that equates to 0.025mm per division, which is quite understandable to me because it's also pretty close to 0.001". So a good compromise for metric vs imperial when getting down to finished size.

Martin.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

A friend has just purchased an Osaki mini milling machine from Cromwell Tools.

It looks similar to the ones offered by Machine Mart and Arceurotrade etc, but I was surprised to find the handwheels are graduated to 0.75mm per rev , which in itself is somewhat odd, so when I went on to confirm this via the rule(r) mounted on the front of the machine, I was even more surprised to see that one turn of the handwheel resulted in 1.5mm of table travel

Does anybody have an explanation for this?

I might add that a complaint has been made to the supplier and they state that all their machines are the same and so can't fit more appropriate handwheels. They are however, willing to collect and refund his payment.

Martin.

[Bryan FindlerParticipant @bryanfindler51446]

Hi Russell I have ordered a whetsone from Arceurotrade it is not the one I really want but it may do the job thanks

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I don't know about Clifford Northfield but Arceurotrade (advert on left) stock quite a range of diamond wetstones and files. You could also try Axminster Tools.

Russell.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Absolutely.

I don't disagree with what Ketan said at all – but there's a world of difference between running a commercial website (custom design pretty much de rigeur) and running forum software, and it is forum software we are talking about here.

I'm afraid that I don't use the advert links from this site at all. I have a set of bookmarks with all of the ones I'm interested in, and I select what I want from that, not from people waving flags. Yes I have one for arceurotrade, of whom I am a very satisfied customer – excellent after-sales service. The ads very rarely get in the way unless somebody does something daft with links in a thread, so I just ignore them.

Edited By Steve Garnett on 18/05/2012 21:16:44

Steve,

I am a member on various forums and I agree with you and Steve W, about the principals of a forum.

However, I think this forum is being run in a commercial business form, rather then a true forum principal. Yes, there are other commercial businesses who have forums of their own which are left to run themselves. However, MHS is a commercial media based company who have to try and make money out of every element of their business, be it subcribers, advertisers as well as their own shop. I may disagree with some of their own shop idea, but that is my opinion.

I do not know who advised them about setting up their sites, and the rights and wrongs of it. It is still more commercial based then other sites. In the custom design, there may be back office elements which may be lacking on the off the shelf packages. This may be been one of the reasons to choose custom, over off the shelf.

My point is, they have already spent a lot of money on the sites creation, rightly or wrongly. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. May be they could or should have used a better forum software. But now that the money is spent across all their sites, what should they do?

Ketan at ARC.

[Steve GarnettParticipant @stevegarnett62550]

Posted by Steve Withnell on 18/05/2012 17:43:00:

Not quite sure why anyone would hire a web designer to develop custom forum software. Top quality forum software is available off the shelf. It works out of the box, meets the W3C legal requirements and can be skinned appropriately. DIY in this instance means "Don't Involve Yourself" as Ketan pointed out, it's heartache and pain when you do.

Poor David is getting a beating for stuff not of his making and out of his control, which is at best unfair.

Absolutely.

I don't disagree with what Ketan said at all – but there's a world of difference between running a commercial website (custom design pretty much de rigeur) and running forum software, and it is forum software we are talking about here.

I'm afraid that I don't use the advert links from this site at all. I have a set of bookmarks with all of the ones I'm interested in, and I select what I want from that, not from people waving flags. Yes I have one for arceurotrade, of whom I am a very satisfied customer – excellent after-sales service. The ads very rarely get in the way unless somebody does something daft with links in a thread, so I just ignore them.

Edited By Steve Garnett on 18/05/2012 21:16:44

[mike adkins 4Participant @mikeadkins4]

Posted by PekkaNF on 02/05/2012 11:49:52:

Mike,

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

This one?

Pekka

much appreciated

[MalcParticipant @malc]

Hi All,

I am considering fitting needle roller thrust bearings to the cross slide and compound slide screws of my ML 7 to reduce the play. Arc Euro Trade do a kit for the job. Has any one done this mod? Is it successful? Are there any pitfalls? I would be grateful of any comments.

Thanks in anticipation

Malc.

[PekkaNFParticipant @pekkanf]

Mike,

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

This one?

Pekka

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

Will;

There are 2 thoughts to this. First is that the Myford (and Emco, and other makes) are well made, and everything fits well. They were expensive when new; unfortunately, most of the companies are not trading now. So, any machine you get will be used. Hopefully, not abused.

Lots of people have great luck with the far eastern machine tools. Most of mine are older british/european machinery, but I recently got a "kx1" CNC mill, and other than needing some good cleaning and rethreading of holes for fasteners, and some fastener replacement, it seems to be well made. The "issues" were in the sheet metal covers, nothing structural.

If you have access to the Model Engineer digital archives, Anthony Mount has a series of articles on his far eastern machinery.

In many ways you get what you pay for. Ketan at Arc Euro Trade has, for some of his equipment, really, really good rebuilding manuals. Look closely at some of the bigger mills, for instance, and you'll find a link in them. Never having purchased anything from Arc Euro, I can't say for sure, but, you'll notice what the cleaning/rebuilding costs; if I said it added 50% I might not be far off.

I'm sure that when a new far eastern bit of machinery comes from Arc Euro, it is top notch.

I have read lots of good things about Warco, and about replacement parts. Again, never ordered. I think that Nick of Q1 article fame uses a Warco lathe, and he gets more than satisfactory results.

(I live in Canada, so we have our own equivalent distributors; might pick up a smaller asian lathe for CNC conversion tomorrow!)

Another JohnS.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

I would agree with David, a C3 would be a good buy. A basic lathe and a set of cutting tools would cost less than your budget including delivery from such suppliers as Arc Eurotrade (just a satisfied customer). Extra tooling can be added as needs arrive as can upgrades thus spreading cost and not ending up with a lot of extra stuff you may never use as often happens with second hand stuff.

Chinese machines such as this are usually well built and capable of good precision despite what you may hear to the contrary. It's worth a trip out to look at and handle a variety of machines before deciding. If possible get to a show before you buy as you get to see what you can wring out of suppliers.If you buy second hand Be careful to check the machines thoroughly before purchase as, despite what many worshippers say even Myfords wear out and have problems.

'Purchase in Haste, Regret at Leisure' is probably the best advice.

Best regards

Terry

[Peter HallParticipant @peterhall61789]

Unimat, Perris, Peatol, Cowells, Simat, Flexispeed, ToyoML210…. All too small and under-powered for what you want. Believe me, when that coin collector commissions a cabinet from you and you have 25 pairs of brass knobs to turn, you'll wish you'd bought something bigger.

I have a Unimat, a Perris and a small Toyo because I like small, intricate things, but the lathe I actually use all the time is a Myford Speed 10. David Clarke is spot on; C3 (Axminster C2) or similar is big enough for what you need but doesn't take up too much room and is just about small enough to store in a cupboard and bring out when you need it (if you have a strong back). Myfords will do fine, but will require their own permanent bench space. An Emco Compact 5 would do the job too; I sold one last year for £450 including tooling. That one lived under my bench. I used to make furniture, and for years used an old Chinese lathe which was sold by Axminster as the BV20. It was crude, heavy, noisy and leaked oil copiously from the gearbox, but was capable of good work in this field. Newer Chinese lathes are much better. Siegs from Arc Euro Trade are well recommended.

Occasional milling can be done perfectly well in the lathe; you'll need a vertical slide for that. There are several books in print which will show you how to do it.

£500 will get you kitted out nicely with a second-hand machine, but don't forget to allow for tooling. I think the rule of thumb round here is to allow the same amount for tooling as you paid for the lathe. Try to find one with tooling included and you will save money over having to buy stuff separately.

Good luck.

Pete

Edited By Peter Hall on 29/04/2012 09:53:50

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

David,

I think Ketan has (untypically) made a mistake. I have a Clarke CL300M bought cheap (an apparently unused return) from Machine Mart in 1999. It's essentially identical to a C3. I have even fitted Arc Euro's roller bearing upgrade to it.

Neil