
Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
My pillar drill has start & stop + NVR relay all in one unit (I know because I had to open it up and clean the contacts when it started to get unreliable at holding on).
These are normally quite pricey. I think that ARC power switch is essentially teh same sort of unit for about a tenner, but call them and check first.
neil

Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
> beefy enough to handle parting off. I find my existing C3 rubbish in this respect.
You should be able to part much more than aluiminium bar on a C3. If you are having trouble parting steel, it may be a setup or tooling issue and you may find that you get the same problems with a bigger lathe.
I have a Clarke CL300M which is essentially the same lathe. Even before I amde the Arc Euro roller bearing upgrade I had no problems with parting off. On my current setup I can part off 1 1/4" diameter silver steel, and groove 2" diameter mild steel (too large to part off!) both using 1/16" or 3/16" HSS tools in the normal toolpost or my QCTOP, not a rear toolpost.
Neil
P.S. I agree about the DC drive though, although teh new brushless motors are suppsed to be much better. I run my lathe off a 1/2 HP single phase motor, but have a 400W 3-phase motor and VFD nearly ready to fit.
Edited By Stub Mandrel on 18/06/2013 13:44:03

SteveW
@stevew54046
Ifound the Arc Euro flanged nuts a help on the wm250 lathe chuck. Dispense with the washers (so long as the washer police aren't looking) and it makes it much easier. I did find this a pain but with experience it gets much better.
Why is it that I always need the 'other' chuck no matter how carefully I plan?
Steve W

magpie
@magpie
I forgot to say that the reason for the big rush to buy the 115 piece set from Arc Euro **** £15.00 **** Cheers Derek.

magpie
@magpie
Many years ago at the Harrogate show, I bought a 115 piece set from Arc Euro. 1/16"- 1/2", plus a set of number, and letter drills. When i bought mine at about 10.30 am on the friday, they had two pallets full of these sets. Having got my bargain, i went back to find my mates in the cafe to tell them. The conversation was overheard by lots of others sitting nearby all of them got to their feet and headed to the Arc Euro stand. When walking past the stand a few hours later they were down to a single layer on one pallet. Up untill that time i had never used either number or letter drills, however i now use them very often. If i need a hole to be spot-on size, i use one to drill a few thou under then ream to finish. Cheers Derek. P.S. They are still in use every day.

Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
Steve,
Mini-lathe change gears are 1-mod. You could probably buy a full metal set from Arc Euro for the cost of a couple of genuine Boxford ones. If reboring and splining a full set is too much effort, if you made one or two splined adaptors and bored out the Arc gears to fit over these, would that work?
Neil

Peter Bell
@peterbell11509
Had great success with my ER 16 spindle from Euro Arc but programmed my invertor to use on on another motor and for forgot to adjust the base frequency back afterwards—result smoke from the spindle motor—havent tried it since!
Presume its not possible to rewind them and its a bin job?
Bet John would have a good answer!
Thanks Peter

MICHAEL WILLIAMS
@michaelwilliams41215
**LINK**
(1) Read the articles by Dick Stephen .
He is/was an amateur engineer but very knowledgeable on technical matters generally and these articles are a rare example of something written by someone who actually knew what he was talking about .
(2) Leaving the ordinary handwheel in place is a bit of a mixed blessing when powerful stepper motors are involved . The values for holding torque – power on and power off – can be quite large and are also of a cogging nature so hand wheel can take a bit of effort to move and tend to go bump bump as it turns .
Works ok with little systems and gets to be more of a problem as things get bigger . An electronic handwheel is very easy to do and avoids these possible difficulties .
(3) You will need to think a lot about feed screws , nuts and end bearings . If you are retaining the as supplied items backlash will be a big problem . Some CNC software has backlash correction which can certainly help but when trying to do fine work on a basically clumsy machine it will prove inadequate .
Really ball screws and ball bearings need to be fitted . If this can't be done then upgrade the existing set up as far as possible .
(4) Don't make the mistake of assuming that a CNC machine is just a manual machine with steppers fitted – CNC is a whole new way of thinking and doing .
MikeW
Edited By MICHAEL WILLIAMS on 04/06/2013 09:37:07

Gary Wooding
@garywooding25363
If your primary objective is to securely hold tube without damage, and you have some ER collets, then have you considered these **LINK**?
Just get the hex version and hold it in your 3-jaw – its much cheaper than a 6-jaw.

Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
I've just fitted (literally!) a Zither 4" 3-jaw SC chuck from Arc Euro Trade to my mini lathe. I had to turn the front register on the backplate. It was tough steel that turned well, and also tapped nicely for the M6 threads. I used quality 25mm stainless screws with the heads turned off for the backplate to spindle.
It came with a test chart that doesn't give chuck specific dta but confirms that the chuck is within the spec given. This is 0.03mm (>1 thou) on the outer body diameter and 0.080mm runout (3 thou) at 50mm from the chuck if tightend with the outer pinion.
I had hoped the body would turn dead tru, but it has an eccentricity of about 0.0005" – still better than spec.
I first tried the 50mm test with a 3./8" stainless bar, but it was a bit battered and I got a pretty dismal result about 8 thou 
I repeated the test witha clean 1" silver steel bar pushed right home into the chuck. I was astounded to see no perceptible movement of the DTI needle at all (my DTI is a quality German one and reads to 0.0005" graduations). This is better that the (still very good in my opinion) 80 mm Chinese chuck supllied with the lathe.
I'm very chuffed (gobsmacked!) and all I can say is if you have a reasonable chuck, make the backplate as close a fit for the chuck as you can.
Neil

Robin Graham
@robingraham42208
Belatedly returning to the question of fitting a drill chuck with a tang-type MT2 arbour to the WM16, I've had no trouble doing that with my WM14, which is a similar if smaller machine. You do have to bash it out though, which is worrisome. I've recently noticed that Arc Euro have a range of threaded chuck arbours which would allow mounting a chuck with a drawbar and using the 'self eject' mechanism. They also do screw-in tangs which would allow the same chuck/arbour assembly to be used in a drill press. Think that's the way I'll go. Usual discalimer.
Bob.

blowlamp
@blowlamp
That's an interesting alternative and something I've been considering myself, Col.
Is your motor similar to this one? Which looks quite promising, although I'm thinking about doing a belt-drive conversion direct to the spindle in the same arrangement that Arceurotrade have for their Super C3 Mini-Lathe.
Martin.

JA
@ja
Posted by _Paul_ on 27/05/2013 02:34:53:
Very nice clean design Chris, I wouldnt mind copying that if it's OK?.
For your handles have you considered something like this:

probably have more locking pressure than a knurled knob.
Regards
Paul
Paul
Who supplies such things? I have managed to break two fitted to my milling machine.
JA

_Paul_
@_paul_
Very nice clean design Chris, I wouldnt mind copying that if it's OK?.
For your handles have you considered something like this:

probably have more locking pressure than a knurled knob.
Regards
Paul

Danny M2Z
@dannym2z
Hi Paul.
I actually used a digital angle gauge from:
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Squares-Angle-Gauges-Protractors
100-080-10200re”> Digital Angle Rule/Protractor 200mm – 0-360°.
Mounted it on the front of a standard propeller pitch base plate by drilling 2 holes in the bottom rule.
I had to put feet under the base to raise it so that the top edge of the lower rule was flush with the top of the base. As I use it for aircraft props the base slots are 1/4" wide & 1/4" apart. Prop holder is the usual cones on a sliding carrier.
I shall take a photo soon (it's in use up in the bush at Corryong at the moment, being used to set up a new blade on a farmer's drone – he hit a magpie!)
Only thing is you have to calculate the pitch from the blade angle/radius but with a programmable calculator it's easy.
Regards from down-under
CU later * Danny M *

Ian S C
@iansc
Perhaps they got the hight 1090 mm right and its on a stand. Arceurotrade advertise both a 6" and 8" grinder and a stand, although it doe's not say what the hight is. Ian S C

GaryM
@garym
Frank,
Arc Eurotrade have a special offer on the C6 at the moment including some of the accessories you'll inevitably need:
**LINK**
Gary
Edited By Gary Marland on 22/05/2013 20:47:21

Old School
@oldschool
Thanks
Ketan at Arceuro has ordered them for me will be a week or so
Olly

Martin Kyte
@martinkyte99762
How about talking to Arc Euro. To quote their website
"We have been supplying ball, roller, and needle roller bearings to trade and industry since 1986. Here is a small selection of sizes we carry in stock. In addition to these, if you have any other bearing requirements for a project, or for replacement, please give us a call."
regards Martin

Robbo
@robbo
Not going to recommend a specific lathe ( I have Myford and Boxford) but I can recommend the service from both ArcEuroTrade and Axminster from personal experience, and I know a lot of people are happy with Chester.
Phil

Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
Hi Frank,
I suggest you look at Arc Euro Trade and Warco as well, as all the imported machines have variations in detail.
For a pillar drill, it's probably worth looking at Machine Mart.
Neil.

Ian P
@ianp
Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 19/05/2013 17:11:09:
Looking at that mechanical/ digital mike, I wonder if any manufacturer has thought of adding this functionality to an electronic digital mike / caliper. Ie: readout in MM,inch, fraction,swg,etc etc. I guess the electronic wizzards on this forum could interface a std digital caliper to a 'buzz box' that could do just that.
Bob
Some digital calipers meet nearly all you requirements, I have a Arc Euro one that does everything except wire gauge.
Personally I don't see the point of displaying fractions, maybe OK for an american woodworker but from an engineering aspect is sucks! A caliper capable of displaying 0.001" increments is constrained to dividing an inch into 64ths, its silly. I'm silly to for buying one!
Ian P
PS, Other than the fractions the Arc Euro caliper is really nice.
has fractions

Rik Shaw
@rikshaw
Mark – I am fairly certain that I read somewhere very recently that Arc Euro do replacement steel gears. I also seem to remember reading that the plastic gear was there to minimise damage to the rest of the machine in the event of a stack-up.
Thanks to George for the Grizzly link. I printed the PDF earlier and was amazed to find that my second hand HP LaserJet was able to use a duplex mode and print double sided – never knew it could do that until now – whoopee!
Rik

Sub Mandrel
@submandrel
I third that.
As Tubal Cain used to say "keep up the feedrate!"
I have a relatively lightly built mini-lathe (although with the Arc Euro roller bearing mod). I part off 1" silver steel to make gear cutters and lots of other stuff in similar or larger sizes. I have successfully grooved 2" diameter mild steel with a parting tool.
I use hand-ground HSS tools in the normal toolpost or my home-made QCTP. I now have a 1/16" blade in a QC toolholder which works really well.
All the other tips apply (lubricant, sharp, centre height, no undue play) but just being confident makes a huge difference.
Neil

JasonB
@jasonb
No those are made to fit on this type of grease nipple
I suspect your machine has button oilers like these which are best filled using a decent oil can with a fine spout such as Reilang
J
Edited By JasonB on 14/05/2013 19:43:39