Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Tim

Why not consider an alternative approach. Keep your 1.5mm pitch feedscrews (good for fine control for small work) and fit digital readouts (DROs)?

Arc Euro have the iGaging type with remote displays which are not expensive and are easy to fit.

One big advantage is that the accuracy of the leadscrew then becomes unimportant. If you were considering using lengths of threaded rod, or screwcutting your own its unlikely you would get higher accuracy than the DRO would give.

Standard iGaging DROs have a resolution of 0.01mm but even with the standard leadscrews you can use DRO to measure the major distances and then 'fine tune' the slide position using the index collars. That way cumulative screw pitch errors are less relevant.

Ian P

[TimSParticipant @tims]

Hi Russel i will scour their pages fully later; last time i checked they were out of stock of some but maybe they have got some more in

John the reason for the change was mainly due to my terrible maths abilities; 1.5mm gets a bit complex for me; i needed to extend the length of the x axis screw as it only gives me a tiny amount of travel relative to the slide length so it seemed sensible to change to a longer screw of a more sensible pitch

i had considered belt drives and pulleys but it seemed a bit complicated when screws of the right sizes are made (just not necessarily available)

i have checked with Marchant Dice and they do make a 12×2 in right hand so i may use that on the x axis; make the y axis screw myself (perhaps with a Arc Euro 2mm Nut) and opt for a coarser pitch for the z axis to replace the god awful fine feed… would be oh so nice to find all the parts in one shop but unless i can find one i am stuck with a mismash :/

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

12 x 2 mm seems to be pretty standard for the X1 and X2 mills. Have a word with Arceurotrade (advert on right) they stock many spares for these machines.

Russell.

[Mark Lawson 1Participant @marklawson1]

Thanks all for the information I was supposed to buy my mill January to February but with not just a house move but also moving back to England from Europe things didn’t go to plan.

Recently I have bought a Chester 16V this has a larger table 500 X 140mm and a 600watt motor as opposed to 400 x 120 and 500 watt from Amadeal and Warco, I spoke to all 3 companies on the telephone and all were extremely helpful and would quite happily have bought from all 3 companies the thing that threw the deal was the larger table and slightly more powerful motor, I also bought a collet and chuck set, vice, fly cutters, clamps, v blocks, parallels and a few other bits the service from Chester was hassle free and next day delivery, I know a few people mentioned the next model up and to be honest this would have been desirable but I’m on my own with no lifting gear and can only just manage to lift a 16V (75kg) the larger models were twice the weight I just couldn’t cope with that also the space would be an issue I need just over 1 meter for the 16V, next upgrade a set of DRO’s.

Thanks also to the chaps who mentioned the older English mills I did have a look and yes I could have bought one for similar money but don’t have the space nor the lifting gear to move said item though I have to admit that with a set of DRO’s fitted all the 1”3/8 4”9/16 stuff would have been understandable.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

A variation on Harold Hall's square holder is to use "Stevenson's ER25 Collet Blocks" (From Arc Euro.). I have bought a square one to sharpen my 4 flute cutters and an hexagonal one for my 6 flute cutters.

Les.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I went to Harrogate yesterday(Sun) & as usual there was a gamut of superb exhibits, I was intrigued & impressed with J.Eva's 'scrapyard', I asked him what inspired him to come up with it to which he commented, tongue in cheek I assume.. 'women drivers'. I assumed that his Mrs had heard it umpteen times over the weekend.. ?

I bought a few bits 'n' pieces that I needed mainly some indexible tips, a couple more 'Dickson' type holders & other bits, some ally bars… price of ally & brass has shot up!. It's a pity Chronos / Arc euro were not there as I was looking to get some items off ea. but there again Ketan did say on this forum that he wouldn't be there so no surprise, never the less you always like to look at what you intend to buy where you can, s'pose I'll have to wait until the end of month to order on line.. being a pensioner & all that . A good day out never the less.

George

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Glen,

I am surprised that Myford sold your Dad a motor, presumably of Far Eastern origin, for the thick end of £200 and then could not provide any help with fitting it to Myford product – even an obsolete ML7. They took over the whole of Myford remember!

Machine Mart sell Clarke motors, made in Europe, for very reasonable prices e.g. a ¾ HP single phase for £80.39 including vat. Have a look at the spec. I have great respect for Clarke as they provided spare parts for my Taiwanese band saw purchased from Warco several years ago. Warco said it was obsolete and they had not carried spares for some years and could not provide any further help.

Over the years I have also purchased several new motors from electric motor repair companies who are the backbone of industry usually providing a very fast re-wind/repair service together with sales of new motors. Such companies are in most large towns. The one I used most is in Eastern Oxfordshire and they provide a super service. They once converted a star only 3 phase motor with only 3 terminals to delta at a very reasonable price considering the motor had to be stripped and the star point dug out etc.

So it pays to shop around and where possible support your local specialist.

Eric

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Posted by Nick_G on 01/05/2014 22:46:15:

I don't for a second profess to know a great deal about milling machines. But I am also in the market for one myself so I am watching this thread with interest.

You mention perhaps a CNC conversion at a later date. I notice that on youtube this one has been a popular candidate for such by lots of people. Perhaps others could tell me why.?

**LINK**

You also mention a possibility of buying one with a DRO ready fitted. Make sure it has outputs that are compatible for CNC use otherwise the extra money for them 'may' have been wasted.

Regards, Nick

Nick, I'd say off the top of my head…..

SX3

Lots of room to fit zero backlash ballnuts under the table and saddle! (this is a big bonus if you'd prefer not to modify the machine)
convenient front handle for Z axis movement – I'm 6ft so the high rear handle isn't an issue for me.
by far the best know Chinese brand and the only one to tout their own name on products.
Its got some nifty features, and its popular so plenty of others to learn from.

WMD20

ballnuts can be fitted but do sometimes require modification to the saddle if you want to fit a nice big beefy ones.
larger work envelope than the SX3
cheaper.
well finished and square (I believe the SX3 and other high end Sieg machines are also well finished)

[GaryMParticipant @garym]

Posted by Nick_G on 01/05/2014 22:46:15:

……

You mention perhaps a CNC conversion at a later date. I notice that on youtube this one has been a popular candidate for such by lots of people. Perhaps others could tell me why.?

**LINK**

…………

Regards, Nick

Hi Nick,

I don't know why it's popular for conversion but Arc also do a CNC version of the same machine.

**LINK**

Gary – a happy but inexperienced SX3 owner

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

I don't for a second profess to know a great deal about milling machines. But I am also in the market for one myself so I am watching this thread with interest.

You mention perhaps a CNC conversion at a later date. I notice that on youtube this one has been a popular candidate for such by lots of people. Perhaps others could tell me why.?

**LINK**

You also mention a possibility of buying one with a DRO ready fitted. Make sure it has outputs that are compatible for CNC use otherwise the extra money for them 'may' have been wasted.

Regards, Nick

[Mark P.Participant @markp]

Whilst on the subject of milling, has anyone converted their WM16 to inverter drive? The reason being I am contemplating doing this to mine ( I find that my motor eats brushes). Also is it the spindle gears which are plastic and will the ones Arceurotrade sell fit? When I do carry out this conversion I would like to retain the Hi Lo gears to increase the usable speed range.

Regards Mark P.

[WALLACEParticipant @wallace]

Hi Nick.

Aluminium oxide ( ‘grey’ ) for HSS and silicon carbide ( ‘green’) for tungsten carbide.

Arc Euro Trade do a variety of sizes and grades.

I would seriously recomend making some kind of tool rest ( Harold Hall details one on his website ). Off hand grinding is difficult to get the right angles and wastes valuable tool steel in the attempt !

W .’

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

It looks like Andy has been there done that. for teh vertical slide.

Warco sell an ER25 collet adapter which looks to have the mounting already sorted. However you could also look at end mill holders or a morse taper ER32 collet holder set.

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Brian,

If you go to the ArcEuroTrade website you can see 2 pdf files of Dave Fenner's article on setting up a C3 mini-lathe, published in MEW no 133 ( was the start of a series on using the mini-lathe, now published as a book in the Workshop Practice series).

Try this link **LINK**

The Workshop Practice book would probably be a good buy for you

[M J AliParticipant @mjali]

Hi everybody

I'm new to this forum and to thread cutting and looking for some advice.

I'm a design student at the royal college of art and I'm trying to make some parts for a machine I'm making.

I'd like to thread some parts, mostly with an ID around 20mm. I'm considering indexable because I can replace the tips easily (although more expensive) when I break them(!) and don't trust my ability to sharpen a carbide tip to 60 degrees.

My buying options at the moment are 6 or 8mm shank sized kits from rdgtools (http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Indexable-Screw-Cutting-Sets.html) or individual tools. I was thinking the kits because they have both internal and external tools and a number of spare tips.

Chronos have separate int and ext kits but in a 16mm shank, too big for what I need to do, I think? (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Sets_of_16_mm_Square_Indexable_Threading_Tools.html)

I can't afford to wait for 12mm shank kits to come back in at rdg, arceurotrade or chronos and at the moment would obviously rather spend a bit less.

Is it a false economy to buy a set rather than individual tools?
Does the shank of the tool holder (8mm vs 10 or 12mm) make such a big difference?
Does the type of tip make a huge difference? Generic A60, G60 vs pitch specific tips?

Unfortunately I can't really afford to make a mistake in terms of time or money just now, with the final exam and show rushing towards me.

I have a 1964 Boxford AUD, which I bought from the college a couple of months ago. It was being scrapped because laterly it had been in the wood workshop for 10-15 years where they just hadn't had the time to maintain it. It was still just about working but needed a lot of tlc because it was totally clogged up with wood dust. I stripped it down, cleaned, oiled, unseized it, changed belt etc and it now seems to be working fine. Well enough for what I need to do at the moment.

So this leads to my second question. The lathe came with a burnerd 3 inch chuck with only the external jaws. I'm finding now that it's a bit small for what I need to do. Chronos has a vertex 100mm chuck but would prefer bigger.

Does anybody have any experience mounting a 130mm chuck on an AUDII for instance? Does it actually go on?
Do I have to take the weight of the chuck into consideration and how will this affect the spindle and bearings? Will it wear them out, or mean that I have to do even smaller cuts?
Would it be better to got the 100mm vertex chuck or even one of the other ones: Sharp, Soba, Turntech, generic?

I'm fairly new to this so apologies for so many questions and if I've left out a ton of information.

Many thanks in advance

Mo

[MM57Participant @mm57]

…maybe he had some of these, which would/should make the job pretty easy once the first cut is accurately made…

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures#ER32-Collet-Blocks

…or maybe he didn't

Edited By Martin Millener on 14/04/2014 15:28:18

[SaxalbyParticipant @saxalby]

Hi Ian,

ArcEuro sell them – heres the link:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/One-Shot-Lubrication-System

Regards Barry

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

PM Ketan Swali at ArcEurotrade or John Stevenson, they were both involved in the design and development of this machine.

Steve

[AndyPParticipant @andyp13730]

Stevo,

I think you will enjoy the C1, I have had mine for over 7 years (Chester version) and it has done almost everything I have asked of it including all the round bits of a 3 1/2" gauge loco – Rob Roy.

It has its little foibles, like you can't get a centre in the headstock with the faceplate fitted and there isn't a catch plate listed so turning between centres was difficult to work out.

Several places do accessories, Axminster, Arc Euro Trade and possibly Chester where it is a Cobra lathe. I use the quick change toolpost from Arc Euro and am content with it. Some of the bits will make your eyes water though – look up the compound slide for instance.

Andy

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Neil,
The drill was a cheap one with the label "Cougar" which I bought from Asda well over 10 years ago. On this drill the torque limiter works by allowing outer of the planetary gearbox to rotate. It is prevented from rotating by a number (6 or 8 I think) spring loaded balls that engage with dimples in the end of the gearbox casing. The pressure on these springs set the torque limit. I removed this as it gave a nice cylindrical section to mount it. Removing the chuck was the difficult part as there was no way to grip the output shaft from the gearbox. I had to remove the motor and all the gears and make a tool that fitted over the three output gear spindles. I thought these might shear off when I tried to unscrew the chuck but thy survived. I did not have a switch of suitable size and current rating hence the start and stop button. It is a variation on the SCR latch that I suggested on the thread about a stop button for a VFD. Now the SCR drives a power MOSFET . Your Article about using a 63 tooth gear enabled me to cut the 3/8" 24 (UNF) threads to match the chuck. You can probably see the 63 tooth gear from Arc Euro on the view of the indexing disk.

Les.

[Oompa LumpaParticipant @oompalumpa34302]

Posted by alan lloyd 3 on 07/04/2014 19:35:03:

I bought one years ago, never used it, save your money for something more useful.

More useful than what?

You can't just make a blase statement like that and move on. The chap is genuinely asking for advice and although you maintain you bought one and never used it I built one and use it frequently. I suppose if you are tapping 3/4" Whit holes it would be superfluous but I work on other people's property with some quite small taps so for me I find it very useful. I am perfectly capable of drilling and tapping holes freehand but this tool gives me a good layer of insurance.

The OP does not have a high level of experience in tapping and this might be very useful for him. Or he might need something to stick the Christmas fairy on, who knows. But you can't just dismiss something and walk off. Why didn't you use it? And what would be a more useful purchase?

What I do know for sure though, i that if you are starting out in a hobby, any hobby and you have a high degree of failure you can easily become discouraged. The advice to read the Universal Pillar Tool articles is also good advice. I did this and realised that I didn't need all the bells and whistles but I had enough bits to make enough of a tool for it to be useful to me. Now that I have it I wouldn't be without it.

graham.

The ARC Euro one is HERE

Edited By Oompa Lumpa on 07/04/2014 21:41:41

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you are determined to buy such a tool, Arc Euro advertise one, I think.

I made one many years ago using the base and pillar from a pistol drill stand. The arm was a piece of 50mm box section with two sleeves welded in and bored at the same setting, so that they were parallel.

The taps are held in a 3/8 " (10mm) capacity drill chuck on a spindle which has a piece of 6mm x 2mm injector pipe as a Tommy Bar. Its crude but effective.

Workpieces are generally held in a loose vice, or if larger, by hand on the base.

So far, have yet to break a tap, even down to 10 BA, using this gadget, (which is tempting fate!)

For tapping in the lathe, a Mandrel handle is very useful.

You may still end up, having started the Tap in the lathe, having to finish the job off in the vice using a large Tap Wrench!

Howard

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Hello Chris, the Hornet trap is an 18" square box, about 4" deep. The front has a slot to let bees in and then behind the slot is a wall. The bees can go up and into the hive through another slot in the roof of the compartment. The rear of the box then has a sliding drawer and the drawer and the sides of the main box have matching holes and, 'Cones' are fitted on the inside of the drawer, these are, 'one way cones that let insects in, but not out, hence the trap effect. The Hornets get in after the bees but are unable to get to them as there is a wire mesh above them and they eventually die of dehydration. Should be quite easy to make in Western Red Cedar wood and the mesh is available from Thornes in 18" squares. You will of course need 1 for each hive. Best way is buy 1 trap and then make copies! Naughty I know but needs must.

If you search, 'Asian Hornet traps' you will find methods of making bottle traps and if you search Vita-Europe.com you will see a pic. of the wooden base trap.

Clive

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Andy,
I can see no reason why this should cause a problem. I think it would be wise to support the motor casing and use a centre in the tailstock end. (Assuming it has a centre drilling.) I would keep the speed fairly slow. I was going to say below the motors maximum speed rating but a quick look at the specifications on ArcEuro's website does not give a maximum speed or stepping frequency. I would guess at below about 400 rpm. (This is just a guess. I have no information to base it on.) Make sure the wires are not shorted together as it will be acting as an alternator. They seem to use small stepper motors in this way in wind up torches.

Les.

[paul simsParticipant @paulsims62082]

I have purchased a new Sieg Super X3 Mill, and will soon want to add a power drive to the table, Arc Euro say it can be done but will not reccomend any manufacturer, the American wesites list them, but I want to buy in this Country, My question is does anyone know of a UK supplier of a suitable power Feed.

Many thanks in anticipation, Paul