Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

Posted by Ian S C on 21/06/2014 13:13:17:

Arc Euro seem to have 2 replacement metal gears in the catalogue, they are for the mini lathes, one is 21/29T for the high low gear on the spindle, the other is 12/20T for the high low on the gear shaft, …

If it helps, the gears in the Chamion 20V mill (bigger brother from Chester) are:

Motor to spindle1 – 25 : 46

Spindle1 to spindle2 – low 42 : 80, high – 62 : 60

Cheers, Tim

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Arc Euro seem to have 2 replacement metal gears in the catalogue, they are for the mini lathes, one is 21/29T for the high low gear on the spindle, the other is 12/20T for the high low on the gear shaft, you better check, but I'm sure someone said they suited the gear head Sieg mill.

The brushless motors sound like a good idea, although I'll stick to an AC induction motor, and my belt head with back gear, and keep away from the electronics(I think the electronic speed control is just a way of building a cheap machine, not a durable one). Ian S C

[Mark P.Participant @markp]

Hi Rik, I have seen some similar looking gears on the Arc Euro web site but not sure that they will fit. I don’t want to strip the mill only to find that I need to make parts to fit the new motor and drive train. The idea of the inverter drive is I seem to use a lot of brushes (3 sets in 5 years) they seem to be on the way out now.
Regards Mark P.

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Hello Mark – No, never considered fitting an inverter drive to mine but I seem to remember that someone on here claimed that steel gears were available through ArcEuro – I maybe wrong though (memory issues if you understand!).

I also seem to remember that there was a caution when fitting steel gears as the plastic ones would strip before damaging other parts of the machine in the event of a "stackup".

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

If you look at the centre that is supplied with the lathe you will get an indication of the length required. According to the Arceurotrade catalogue, tooling for the C2 and C3 are interchangeable, they show a I – 10 mm Jacobs type chuck, with an aror threaded for a 10 mm draw bar. Ian S C

[Steamer1915Participant @steamer1915]

Plus one for Arc Eurotrade. Ordered at Midday yesterday. Arrived today. Free postage as well.

8 items in all.

Usual disclaimer.

Steve

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Aestus57 on 17/06/2014 17:32:41:

Thanks everyone. Was quite tempted by the ArcEuro models but was a bit put off by the "Wendeng" Chinese manufacture when doing a bit of research. However,…. we shall see, very near a decision, 6" or 8", does anyone have a preference?

In terms of marketing, there in lies the problem. Most of the branded importers bring in cheaper models from the same manufacturer, never choosing to introduce the better functional model because of price. If you want to compare like to like, I have already given a clue for Japanese brand which starts with M and a three letter German brand beginning with A. If you do a search, you will probably find the same models as we sell …they also make for all the Lower speck models for almost all the U.S. Big box shifters ..

Ketan at ARC.

[Aestus57Participant @aestus5782081]

Thanks everyone. Was quite tempted by the ArcEuro models but was a bit put off by the "Wendeng" Chinese manufacture when doing a bit of research. However,…. we shall see, very near a decision, 6" or 8", does anyone have a preference?

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

nown bran Posted by Halton Tank on 16/06/2014 12:00:12:

I have just bought a 6" bench grinder from ArcEuro (no connection, except as very satisfied customer). No yet really used in anger but exceptionally quiet compared with my old one.

Must praise ArcEuro and courier company for exceptionally delivery. Ordered last Tuesday morning and delivered Wednesday lunchtime bang in the middle of the time slot I was given.

Regards Luigi

Visited the factory which makes these grinders. Was pleasantly surprised to see who they make the same models for (a well known Japanese power tool maker and a well known German power tool maker) …without naming brand names, and other lower specification models for well known U.S. And European power tool brands..

Ketan at ARC

[Halton TankParticipant @haltontank]

I have just bought a 6" bench grinder from ArcEuro (no connection, except as very satisfied customer). No yet really used in anger but exceptionally quiet compared with my old one.

Must praise ArcEuro and courier company for exceptionally delivery. Ordered last Tuesday morning and delivered Wednesday lunchtime bang in the middle of the time slot I was given.

Regards Luigi

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

The CAD software could be something like ViaCAD or MoI3D for around £200 or less.

CAM software could be CamBam (£93) and/or Deskproto (£200 hobby price or £800 for a commercial licence). CamBam also has lathe g-code output in a basic but very usable form. Bobcad/cam is another option, but the price varies and it seems to be a love hate kind of product.

If Arceurotrade's mills aren't what you need, maybe look at what Amadeal have here

Amadeal also show a CNC lathe of about Sieg C6 proportions on their site here but it may not still be available.

This video shows a Myford converted CNC lathe – I think the conversion kit should be available soon, but no price as yet.

 

 

Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 16/06/2014 09:36:45

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

You won't find a huge range of choice from the usual ME suppliers, especially for lathes.

Two options for a mill are here:

**LINK**

The X3 would use less than 50% of your budget.

Neil

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I bought an XJ-12 mill from Amadeal quite a while ago and it has served me well. Very reasonably priced and in stock when I went to pick it up. Had money not been in quite so short supply at the time and had I more experience, I'd have gone for a larger machine with more mass. Having said that, it does what I ask of it and more. I've fitted 3-axis remote DROs (from ArcEurotrade) as well as converting to belt drive. Pictures in my album.

Whatever you decide to buy, I'm certain you'll have fun using it!

All the best,

John

[murrmacParticipant @murrmac]

Hi, I am just about to purchase my first milling machine, which will be the Sieg SX2 from Arc Eurotrade, with a R8 taper .

Has anybody who owns this machine got any words of wisdom, any pertinent observations ? TBH, I am actually purchasing the machine as a precision drill, and what I do require is accurate hole centre placement.

If anybody out there has fitted a ( 2-axis) DRO to the Sieg SX2, I would be enormously grateful for any tips, hints etc …

TIA …

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi A Irwin, going to the trouble off fitting a reverse switch may not increase its value by any significant ammount. You may be able to recover the cost of doing it depending on what monies you spend on such a switch. You could put something like this self contained switch/no volt start/stop **LINK** but this particular one doesn't have a box, so you would have to source or make one to suite.

Arc Euro do a forward/reverse switch among thier lathe spares, which you may be able to fit in the original front location of the lathe http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C4B-Bench-Lathe-Spares

As Bazlyle says the leadscrew is premanently engaged, so a reverse switch would be an advarntage.

Clive, I would think that you are likely to find more lathes with a reverse than without one.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 12/06/2014 07:42:35

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 12/06/2014 08:18:24

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Arceurotrade also do a front screwed ring closing 5C collet fixture designated type B in their catalogue. Bigger and better picture than Chronos.

Looks as if construction would be no more difficult than the usual ER collet chuck design. A cylindrical body made to screw on the spindle nose with the requisite collet cavity inside and a ring nut to close with either tommy bar holes or (more professional looking) slots for a special spanner. I guess the closing rim bore and lip needs to be similar depth to that used with an ER 32 collet, around 1 1/8" bore by 1/8" thick.

Imagine that the only disadvantage relative to a normal pull from the back or cam operated tightening sleeve design would be an inability to work really close to the collet nose due to the nut getting in the way.

Clive

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

> Cant beat English built products.

People only remember the good quality British products because the cheaper end of the market ones have mostly disappeared. I won't raise the Adept again as it was systematically demolsihed in a recent thread!

The 'Wizard' lathe of 1949 would have cost £9 4/- 9d, with inflation that's rather more than the £250 C0 baby lathe today, which is probably the 'closest' Far Eastern equivalent.

Quite honestly, I think few people would put them side by side and claim that the 'Wizard' was a superior machine, especially as it came with only a faceplate and no motor.

For comparison, an ML7, sans motor, was £37 in 1946, equating to about £1,340 today. I doubt if a 'Wizard' would have held it's value in the way a Myford can.

But, like its far-eastern equivalents, I'm sure that the Wizard provided the only viable route into the hobby for some.

Neil

[WindyParticipant @windy30762]

On my early BH 600 I was given an ex arc euro power feed for a mill that I fitted on the tailstock end of the drive shaft as a test it is still there.

Very good for fine feed on direct drive but needs gearing down on back-gear.

Another project for the future.

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Hi Paul,

Why don't you ask ArcEurotrade? They have been very helpful when I have made enquiries.

Mike

[Engineering is Great!!Participant @engineeringisgreat]

I am thinking about getting one of the Arceurotrade tailstock turret systems. They say it has a 16mm spiggot. If anyone has one, can they measure the spiggot to see if it is 16mm or in fact 5/8". Comments on quality would also be appreciated.

Paul

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

=) same mill as the one I started with although mine was the long table in red from ArcEuro =) – just put a cutter in the chuck and hold a DTI or regular dial gauge perpendicular against the smooth shank as it rotates – the needle shouldn't move more than 0.002" or 0.05mm if your metric like me. For comparison I bought my ER25 collet chuck from **LINK** and it is almost bang on spec at 0.0008 – I did change the C spanner for a safety type to save my nut and my knuckles.

you enemies are the adjustment of the gib strips (they go from to loose to locked with little in between), and that tilting column might be the source of deflection later down the line

– the best, easiest and cheapest thing I did was, change the steel gibs to brass which meant I could tighten the table up more and it wouldn't lock solid – this really gave me great stability and only cost a few quid, just mill a 55° angle on a couple of bits of brass – I laid mine flat on the table and cut steps in the X direction and finished with a file, then flipped it over and aligned it with a DTI in the chuck and away I went again – cheap and easy but effective.

The only reason I sold it was the 150w motor, after I'd gone through and eliminated the weakness I could without spending a fortune (well the column was £35 + £60 postage from LMS.com in the states) I was then at a point where the only thing stopping me taking bigger cuts was the power of the motor – I was going to upgrade that too, but thought better of it and eventually settled on a Chester Champion 20V.

I found the 150w motor just couldn't pull the high speed range unless cutting wood or plastic, so I used the low range with better results and it gave me more cutting power – just keep at least one pinion gear for the motor spare – they sacrificial although I only ever broke one when fly cutting with a blunt cutter

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Thanks Brian,

Sorry, I should have said that I know how the original 7/16 bolt is fixed and I would be aiming to reproduce the flange and pin with any new solution.

The problem I see is that the ArcEuro version requires a longer threaded bar to allow for the piston handle on top. I'm pretty sure that the original 7/16 bolt would be too short.

I have looked for other variants with a 7/16 hole and they seem to be of the Myford QCTP pattern which looks noticably cruder to me than the Arc version which seems closer to the Aloris?

Nick,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not sure I follow how the delrin bush can come into contact with the pin on the underside of the topslide casting. What am I missing please?

Many thanks

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 30/05/2014 09:52:54

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Yes does look like the collet has not been snapped into the nut, have a look at this to see how they fit. Also makes them pop out of the body when the nut is undone.

If you clamp it to the table with half the work overhanging the edge of the table facing you there will be enough movement in the x-axis (side to side) to allow you to cut along one edge.

J