In a word, yes. That's how my various capstan units work. However, my capstan units have uniform hole sizes. I wonder if a previous owner has bored out a couple of holes to fit existing tooling? Give it a go, at least the clamping bolt is fully supported so it won't bend.

Andrew

Regarding the clamp for the oversize hole. If the body material is not hard (presumably not if its already been bored out) then you could enlarge the existing clamp hole but offsetting it to a new position. You might need to be creative to mount the body at the correct angle but could use an end mill to bore the new hole or it could even be done on the lathe with a single point boring tool.

In reality the bore diameter and the precise angle and position are not very critical as you will be making the clamp to fit.

One possible quicker/simpler method might be to drill and tap two new holes either side of the existing clamp bore and have a bridge plate press 'down' on the clamp rather than having to rely on pulling up on something that almost necked through.

Ian P

Ian,

You asked what the locking bolts / cams looked like. Here is a picture of the tooling lock bolts on my Boxford capstan unit.

Ian,

Yes the tooling shanks are 3/4" parallel.

Never had problem finding tooling at boot sales etc.

Barry

Just an idea, which might not work. Make your cotter with it's scollop, but instead of a turned down bit at the top, drill it right through on the axis, tap the bottom end and drill the top end clearance. Then cut it in half so you have 2 bits with 1/4 circles cut out. Then on your 1" shank cut out a half moon to clear the bolt which you are going to pass through the top bit into the bottom bit. It means you have to fully remove the bolt to change tools.

Otherwise, can you make up a bush and loctite it in to restore the 3/4" dimension

I have a tool with a variation of the two part cotter because the screw would be too small or would have a chunk cut out of it preventing rotation. The bottom section is integral with the shaft which is screwed at the top. The second half is a thick tube over the shaft and clemped with a nut. The assembly is then cut to take out the scallop which cuts into the shaft aswell. This enables the shaft part to be thicker than if made as a screwed rod as described by Duncan.