Milling Machine

This topic has 30 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 5 August 2011 at 13:02 by Peter Bell.

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26 July 2011 at 23:15 #72532
Alan Jackson 1
Participant
@alanjackson1
I bought my first milling machine(Sealey SM2502) in April ’11,to machine304 grade stainless steel, to make box lock mechanism housings.

I have found that it can take over an hour to clean up the swarf after each milling operation, partly because it does not pick up easily with a magnet.

I use kitchen towel to soak up excess coolant(3-in-1 oil) then a toothbrush and cotton buds to clean the table’s T-slots.

I un-bolt the clamping plates and clean them with kitchen towel,and clean the concertina-like rubber covers over the lead screw? with kitchen towel.

I work without the Perspex guard,so that i can get the coolant onto the work easily,preffering to wear safety goggles instead of the guard.

Am i spending too much time cleaning?
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26 July 2011 at 23:15 #5602
Alan Jackson 1
Participant
@alanjackson1
How best to clear up swarf.
27 July 2011 at 06:33 #72541
Thor 🇳🇴
Participant
@thor
Hi Alan,

I too clean the T-slots with an old toothbrush. To prevent to much swarf entering the T-slots may be you could cover them with Perspex or something similar? With a bit of heating the Perspex can be bent to make a tray for the swarf, then lift the tray off the milling table and brush the swarf into the dust bin. May be that will save you some time.

Thor
27 July 2011 at 07:23 #72543
John McNamara
Participant
@johnmcnamara74883
Hi Allan Jackson

A wet pick up vacuum cleaner is by far the best tool with a crevice tool (Ideally a metal tube one end flattened to about a 10mm opening slot, it will fit in your table slots, easy to make if need be.) It will pick up any oil or coolant as well.

It sure beats getting splinters of needle sharp swarf in your fingers, and only takes a few minutes.

I got mine at a market for a few dollars but the bigger hardware outlets sell them quite cheaply.

I also use it on the lathe. If the turnings are too big they will stick in the crevice tool (Do not try the open end of the hose without the tool it will block the hose), I just pull any turnings that do not pass the tool while the machine is sucking and drop them in the bin. 99% of the time any smaller pieces end up in the bag. Occasionally they will stick in the hose. These days the hose is plastic just feel along to the obstruction and gently squeeze that will compress the obstruction and it will pass through. Or for a stubborne one turn the hose end for end.

Cheers
John

Edited By John McNamara on 27/07/2011 07:24:08
27 July 2011 at 07:28 #72544
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I’m affraid I don’t go to those extreams of cleaning. Just make yourself a “T” shaped plastic scraper if you must clean out teh tee slots or you can buy them for a couple of quid. Its enough to stop the slots jamming up when you slide a tee bolt along, certainly does not have to be totally void of all swarf.

I’m Sure Our John S does not go tho such extreams in his shop. Maybe he will post a pic of his metal chip catchers

If the swarf is wet with coolant an aquavac kept for the workshop will also do a reasonable job.

The other option is to just lay something flat over the exposed parts of the table(not rag or something that may burn) you then have a flat surface to clean.

Jason
27 July 2011 at 07:30 #72545
Jim Nolan
Participant
@jimnolan76764
A Henry works for me

Jim
27 July 2011 at 07:54 #72546
Eddie
Participant
@eddie
Hi Alan

I use a combination of kitchen towels over table or the other area where swarf, the stuff we make, are falling and then a wet and dry vac to cleanup the shop. The paper towels is cheap and quick to avoid any long cleaning job prevention is better than cure, strips of fridge door seal magnets keep paper towels in place. The same is one on the lathe.

Eddie
27 July 2011 at 08:25 #72548
Anonymous
Henry? I don’t see how inductance is going to help?

Andrew
27 July 2011 at 08:50 #72549
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Posted by JasonB on 27/07/2011 07:28:19:

I’m Sure Our John S does not go to such extremes in his shop. Maybe he will post a pic of his metal chip catchers

Jason

I have been know to have to odd clear up but only if there is a Q in the month.

In the meanwhile this helps a lot.

This is not a staged shot BTW but note that the machine is relatively clean.

Just a simple tray with holes for the T bolts and a couple for the coolant to drain back into the T slots.

I fit these to all my machines.

There is a 10″ three jaw chuck under all this lot but the machine is ‘clean’

John S
27 July 2011 at 13:01 #72557
chris stephens
Participant
@chrisstephens63393
Hi Guys,

Aren’t these forums useful, you learn something new every time. Cleaning machines, WOW, what a brilliant concept, I really must try it sometime. Next, I suppose someone will say you should sweep the floor too.

chriStephens
27 July 2011 at 14:47 #72561
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Hey Chris, I clean my machine every now and then just to make sure its still there, and as for he floor, no room for dirt, there’s too much other stuff for there to be any dirt.

Ian S C
28 July 2011 at 12:10 #72584
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
I am glad I am not alone!!!!
28 July 2011 at 12:53 #72586
1
Participant
@1
I don’t know whether I should take note and be more like the “old hands” here or carry on as I do. I clean my Warco machines after every session, give them a light spray of Duck oil and put the covers on. Be they ever so ‘umble, they cost me a few weeks pay and I want them to keep going as long as I do. I don’t spend an hour doing it though, 20 minutes with an old paintbrush and some paper towel does it. Cotton buds sounds a tad too much.

Jim
28 July 2011 at 13:16 #72587
Eddie
Participant
@eddie
Hi John

Looking at the pictures, well there is more swarf in any one of those than what I have made in a couple of workshop sessions, lathe and milling machine. Working mostly not in the workshop. making the odd sparepart or repair job. now working on an Independant 4 jaw chuck for woodturning, This will require a lot of meatl removal on both machines but still a far cry from the amount in pic’s.

It feels if I also only work in months with a Q.

Eddie
28 July 2011 at 19:44 #72601
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
I have seen on one of the tool suppliers web sites a pack of plastic inserts that go into the T slot and stop swarf falling in. I have just looked but cannot remember which one it was!

Clive
28 July 2011 at 20:52 #72604
chris stephens
Participant
@chrisstephens63393
Hi Guys,

Many, many years ago as part of my Medical Technician training, pairs of us did a rotation in the Medical Physics workshop of one the Hospitals in which we were training. My colleague was a former machine minder who offered a bit of advise which was “If you want to ingratiate yourself to any workshop staff, without being asked, start cleaning the machinery as they love clean machines but hate the bother of doing it”.

Since I am now the “Staff” in my own workshop, I need friend Roger to ingratiate himself once more, here.

chriStephens
2 August 2011 at 11:39 #72761
jomac
Participant
@jomac
Hi yesterday I put up a post on this subject, and hoped that it would work, as, for the last 3 weeks I could not post replies, it worked on another subject. today.

Anyway what I said before, was to cover the work area with cling wrap, including chucks etc etc. ( just make sure that it will not get caught in moving parts) sometimes fine dust and chips stick to the cling wrap, so when I have finished milling or lathing, all I have to do is remove the cling wrap with all the swarf, and then wipe the work area down with an oiled paint brush followed by an old rag. It works for me.

John Holloway
2 August 2011 at 16:40 #72773
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
I posted earlier about T slot covers, I have since found them again and the are on the Wabeco site.

If you look for the milling machines you will see, ‘Ask price,’ click on that and they are in that listing.

They are for 14 and 16 mm widths. Bit expensive for three pieces though!

Clive
2 August 2011 at 21:17 #72777
Jon
Participant
@jon
OP yeah way way too much cleaning, its a tool.

Rag or a blow over with compressed air and sweep up, job done.

3 hrs work and compressed down.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/393696139.jpg
3 August 2011 at 08:32 #72782
WALLACE
Participant
@wallace
I read in an old engineering book that an air line tended to force dirt into a machine so wasn’t a good idea !
Any truth in this or is it a bit of an old wives tale (not that SWMBO ever gets to clean up the workshop…… ..)

W.
3 August 2011 at 09:03 #72783
John McNamara
Participant
@johnmcnamara74883
The problem with air is it blows metal dust and chips all over the workshop, including into your lungs and eyes if you are not careful.

Better to suck it away than spread it around

Cheers
John
3 August 2011 at 20:36 #72807
Keith Wardill 1
Participant
@keithwardill1
Great Thread! I was developing a complex from seeing all those clinically sterile pictures of machining work in progress that are published in ME. I thought I had a serious problem when I found life was too short to spend most of my time sweeping and vacuuming up the swarf, then polishing the machine, treating it with anti-rust oil, wrapping it a warm blanket, singing it songs…..etc, etc. Cleaning the working bits sounds great to me.
3 August 2011 at 20:57 #72809
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Damn,

Why didn’t I think about singing it songs ??????????????
3 August 2011 at 21:24 #72811
Jon
Participant
@jon
I think there would be a bit of common sense there Wallace, but 99%+ of the time wouldnt be any drawbacks.

I would probably say if its old its written when it took 6 blokes to do a one man job as at 25 year ago, even less now.

Logically thinking forcing dirt or debri in to a machine, there must be something massively wrong. Most decent machines have scrapers for starters, even without them you have metal to metal contact, so how on earth can debri get in unless serious wear!

I do have a wet and dry vacuum bought for that purpose along with the bead blasting. Its unused 5 years on, by the time i have unwrapped the power cable, i can sweep over the mill with a broom and blow any excess away usually landing on the floor. Easy job with broom to sweep up then shovel in to bin.

Lathe i just reach across and grab a load holding between two arms, wash down with coolant which leaves an oil residue if left. Puka clean will see the angled scraper, coolant wash and air line, a rarity maybe twice a year.

Most materials are denser than air, so wont linger, ie drop to floor within 1 sec. Must say you would be a right idiot if blowing debri at yourself, again common sense.

T slots usually need scaping out first but admit a decent vacuum does a reasonable job. Airline run at higher pressure and more concentrated, plus mines always to hand at various points around the shop.
4 August 2011 at 16:16 #72856
Billy Mills
Participant
@billymills
Would not advise anyone to use an air blast for cleaning- especially if the line pressure is very high. Any oil or coolant will end up as a very fine mist which then gets straight into your lungs.

It is very hard to remove it.

Same for dusts, fine particles can hang around in a workshop for much longer than you might think because the surface area /mass ratio is very large, it is the 1-20 micron size particles that can hang around for 15 mins or more that are killers, wood, metal and abrasives from sawing sanding and grinding being some of the worst. Woodworkers don’t use dust extraction for fun, it is there to let them work longer and enjoy their retirement.

Blowing stuff around is just bad practice, how do you stop it getting inside ventilation slots or anyone who walks into the area? How long does it take to get a brass or glass sliver from an eye? Do you really want to replace a motor or a control board?

Much better to wipe or slowly brush debris up so that it does not get into the air.

Billy- just back from the Hospital for a Lung Function test.

Happy cleaning.
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