I usually plonk my vice near the middle, because then I don't have to lean to get at the hand-wheels. Without checking to see if it's a real problem or not, I also like to balance the table and the work on it so the weight goes straight down to ground through the stand. In theory, an off-centre weight will bend the table (slightly), and it might tilt if the gibs are worn or loose, causing movement and more wear. No evidence this is a real problem!
However, I often move the vice to make room for other accessories. As always depends on the type of work, but not unusual here to have the rotary table and vice both on the table ready for action. For one job I put an angle plate on as well, but it's not very practical – many jobs are easier on an uncluttered table.
Difficult to describe the thought process because it varies and may be unnecessary. I try to plan a work sequence that minimises the need to move table accessories, because shifting them takes time and compromises accuracy. Otherwise, I'm driven by circumstances, for example, long jobs needing the rotary table headstock leave no room for the vice and off it comes.
Most work I do lets me keep the rotary table and vice on together, but I usually remove the rotary table because sooner or later it gets in the way. Once in a blue moon I clamp big jobs direct to the table, and although small jobs also benefit from rigid direct clamping, it's quicker to hold them in a vice.
It depends on what you do, and I'm on the simple side! I suppose 70% of milling jobs in my workshop are vice held, 20% are straightforward rotary table work, and less than 10% require a thoughtful set up. As my percentages are unlikely to be right for either modelling steam locomotives or mending motor bikes, best to do whatever works best for you! The main thing is to hold work firmly. My mill is a WM18, table about 800 x 200mm, and I suppose its usable longways traverse is about 500mm. Rotary table is an HV6 clone and the vice a DH1.
Dave