Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

To answer the actual question, I have a “screwless” vice on my small mill.
Specfically a precision tool vice type 2 with 70mm wide jaw from Arc Eurotrade. I find it an excellent vice. Holding forces are adequate  and the geometry of the screw (a short caphead) and bar keeps the moving jaw down on the base. I have an allen key with a handle that I use to tighten it. Changing grip over a large range is quck. Loosen the caphead a few turns, tilt the allen key up to disengage the bar and sldes the jaw into the new position.
A big advantage for my with a small mill (Sx1LP) is the absence of a handle. Nothing to get in the way and if I have to mount the vice with the handle over the bed or fixed obstruction you don’t have to keep flipping a fixed handle over or removing and re-fitting the handle.

Robert.

Hi All,

There is such a variety of people here in terms of the kind of machining that is done, with that is mind what better place to ask for peoples opinions on the types of vice? Not bothered about size, it’s how does it work for you or would you change?

The reason being, the only vice I had to use on the mill (Chester SuperLux / RF 45 clone) was a Kurt 6″ which, to be brutally honest, is ***** huge and way too big for the table. I cant see the Y axis scale on the handle (can only just get to the hand wheel!).

However, it’s jaw size has only seemed slightly over kill for what I’ve been doing so far. So I’m thinking that a  100mm or possibly 125mm vice would be ideal but having never used the Screwless Vice (i.e. Arc Euro Type 2 Arc Euro Type 2) was wondering what they are like in every day use, and what the clamping force is like?

I don’t really see a great advantage with the SG Iron Versatile Vice (Arc Euro SG Iron Vice) in terms of size so am almost discounting it.

The 120mm ArcEuro Type 2 is significantly shorter than my 6″ monster (calm down) so will over hang the table less but their 125mm Versatile vice (Arc Euro Versatile Vice) has mounting hole centres that will allow it to clamp long ways on the table (que the debate over cutting forces etc – sorry!) there fore no overhang.

I have to say I am leaning towards the 125mm versatile vice, I do love my Kurt. 😁

Cheers,

Taf.

[Chris Kaminski]

On Chris Kaminski Said:

On Grindstone Cowboy Said:

…so may have missed somone else pointing this out, but the German State Crown looks a decent match to me, including the orb and cross on the top…

 

Found at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_State_Crown

Rob

yes, I have pointed in the direction of German State Crown

(it is indeed orb and cross that makes it specific)

but I don’t think it brings forward our search for specific micrometer manufacturer…

Not sure the German State Crown is that different from the others.   This is Britain’s St Edwards Crown, made in 1661 for Charles II’s coronation:

Crowns existed before nation states.  Back then Europe was ruled by a relatively small number of families who intermarried all the time.  Crowns are more likely to be similar than not.   Charles II was a Stuart, i.e. a Scot.

British crowns feature the fleur de lyse which comes from our early French royal connections.   Our current royal family is distinctly German, and Kaiser Wilhelm, he of the 1918 bayonet crown, was Queen Victoria’s eldest grandchild.   Not surprising crowns are alike.

Doesn’t help with the micrometer though.  I think spade man, OSKO and the entrenching tools are better leads.

Dave

 

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

The ArcEuro blade clamps in the sizes you are talking about hold the tool-tip at the same height as the thickness of the block – I don’t know whether the Glanze one is the same.

Dim.’e’ here;

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Turning-Tools-Indexable/ARC-Indexable-Turning-Tools/SLTBN-Part-Off-Blade-Tool-Blocks-with-Part-Off-Blade

Edit – I use a blade-type backwards/forwards/up down etc. if you can get the tip on c/height it will be fine.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Parting off for me was revolutionised by two things.  First, buying an inserted-tip parting tool.  At the time these were quite expensive but good ones are now quite reasonable from Arc (e.g.) like this one.  It is available with different shank thicknesses – mine is 12mm and fits a standard Dickson QC holder.  I use it in the front toolpost without problems.

The other thing was reading George Thomas who tells you to part at higher speed if at all possible and use self-act crossfeed. On my S7 big-bore speed was 215rpm and slowest self-act.  The first time I engaged the feed I was sure that was going to be a frightful bang and something would break, but actually it was a non-event, just a clean cut and a pile of curly chips.

The worst thing to do IMHO is to use manual feed and slow back gear.  When you first try it you are frightened by all the horror stories so your hand is unsteady and you approach the work v-e-r-y slowly, and find that the tool just starts rubbing and squealing.  So you apply more cut and suddenly it digs in because it’s too much and everything stalls.  You need the material to be moving quickly enough for the tool to cut which means that enough heat is generated at its edge to locally melt the material.  The feed needs to be even to get a sensible “tooth load”.

Now my S7 has CNC control so I can feed at any speed I like, and I have a VFD so I’m not limited by the fixed pulley speeds.  I often part small diameters at 800 rpm and about 4 – 5mm/minute feed rate.

I have got a rear parting tool holder but it seldom gets used.  If you do go that route it is well worth forming a shallow “scallop” on the top face of the tool from the cutting edge back using a diamond needle file – this makes sure that the swarf curls inwards so it’s narrower than the cut width which helps it fall away and prevents clogging.

 

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

The Taigturn is like the Sherline chucker lathes for small production, if you want to drill something you hold the drill in one of many toolposts.

If it were me I would go with the Sherline as it has the larger capacity with the riser blocks, C package will give you screwcutting or consider a small ELS so you get power feed too. Don’t need to limit yourself to watch making, go look at the work of Chris Ruby over on MEM to see what they can do in the right hands. Even my Unimat 3 was capable of making a Stuart 10 size engine and could easily handle all the small engines I have made on the bigger machine or do mods on RC models if thats your thing.

I think also Taig/Peatol has optional riser blocks. Sherline seems to be more expensive for similar configuration. On the other hand it is available in many places, even here in Romania.

On Bazyle Said:

Is it only sometimes working away from home? Will you still have the big lathes? Could you join a club/maker group etc to access machines. Most of the time making something isn’t using the lathe. The supporting hand tools will also weigh a lot. A portable bench with vice would support a lot of activity.

I’ll still have the garage with all machines. But I’m moving with my family to Barcelona. We have no plans for how long we’ll stay there. It could be only months or years. And most likely well live in an apartment. To rent a house would cost a fortune there. So it will be a living room workshop. No more welding, cutting 6 meter pipes with TCT saw, angle grinder fun or furnace project. Or maybe I could still heat small parts on the beach with a large Fresnel lens and quench them in the sea 🙂

I didn’t found so far a club or maker group there. But I’ll dig deeper after I’ll arrive. Another city on our whish list was Eindhoven. It has way more jobs that Barcelona and everybody speaks English. There I found a very nice club where Philips donated lathes, mills and other machines. With 35 euro/year you can have access to everything! But my wife didn’t liked the weather. And we both fell in love with Spain.

But now if I’m thinking better the weight limit doesn’t make much sense. Indeed the rest of the tools would quickly add more weight. In the past when we lived abroad we rented space on trucks to move stuff. Probably we’ll do this again. Still I would not bring the 1.5 ton mill but something up to 50-60kg should be fine.

 

 

 

It looks like soon I’m going to return to the life of digital nomad. That means I’m going to be away from my industrial machines. Moving them across Europe is out of the question. But still I would like to have a lathe and a milling machine with me. Ideally each should weigh bellow 30kg to take them with me by plane. From my research this leaves only three options. Taig, Sherline and Proxxon.

I can’t decide yet. First in my list is Taig Micro Lathe II. The tail stock is sold separately. It is also the cheapest option even if I buy also the motor.

Next is Proxxon PD 250. The price is at least double, but it ca do threads. It weights only 12kg.

And last Sherline. They have many options. I think there is also the possibility to make threads. The price is between Proxxon and Taig. Actually Taig is not available in EU so if I add taxes the price could be the same.

They all seems to be good lathes. With the obvious limitations due to small size. But are there other options?

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Assuming you want to buy plans/castings for engines then here are a few for starters.

Blackgates Engineering do 3 or 4 beginners size engines, a couple of which have metric drawings available which you are probably used to working with. Don’t be put off by the catalogue the engines look like this and this and this

Stuart Models are the usual suspects but generally all imperial

Reeves again have some engines suitable for beginners but imperial

Polly do some nice engines but I would not suggest them to start with as they are scale models of full size so more detailed and intricate, quite a few in metric.

There are also a reasonable number of designs about on the net like those by Stuew Hart that go under the Potty banner and I have a couple such as this and this as well as a couple more that are in Model Engineer. For materials my usual port of call is M-Machine do metric and imperial Tooling I have bought from ARC the most over the last 10years or so.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Far to many people have NO IDEA as to the pros and cons of alternative power generation. A few years ago I was involved in a project that was measuring radiation, I was astounded at the background level ! One could live next to a nuclear power station and your exposure would be no worse.

The problem is one of grants, empire building, defending of castles,misinformation, lies and corruption. To this mix can be added a complete lack of any knowledge of the problems by the politicians.

Robert has mentioned some of the issues with base load and rotating iron, I was on a training course with fellows from the wind power industry and asked some searching questions, the answers were interesting and back up Roberts points.

It’s 7am, a dark & frosty morn, little wind. The heating is on, the shower is running , the kettle is on, the toaster is on, the car is on charge, the lights, radio or tv on – where do you really think the electricity is coming from ?

As we stand, all it wants is for there to be a cold spell over Europe and the French, Belgians, Dutch Etc need their electricity and our lights WILL go out. One of the uses of a smart meter is to be able to cut you off, think on !

Better drink my coffee. Noel.

Morning again! (full of questions me)

I’m looking for a replacement 3MT ER32 collet chuck, the one I have came from Arc Euro but that was when I first bought the mill about 2 years ago but was unable to use it as per the rebuild thread so didn’t realise what it’s issues were otherwise I’m sure they would have swapped it out. Nothing wrong with Arc Euro, I have some great stuff from them (and just got a nice set of parallels for Xmas! 😁), just one of those things.

Unfortunately there is significant run out (around 50 microns) vs my spindle which only vibrated the indicator needle when rotated. the draw bar thread is at such an angle to the vertical that I can not use my self ejecting draw bar.

Does anyone have any experience of the Omega products of the Bison?

If so, I’m considering one of either –

Omega MT3 ER32

Bison MT3 ER32

If anyone has any views?

Cheers 🍻

[John McCulla]

On John McCulla Said:

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Tbh I hadn’t wanted to go down the collet route, it means buying a whole set of collets, but maybe that is the best option. Arc Euro have a stonking deal on an ER32 collet chuck, so I might give that a go and just buy a few individual collets for now. (Although it would involve then making a backplate which is one more thing to add the roun tuit list!)</p>

A set???

If you stick to metric you will need 4 sizes though 16mm might have too much bite for a vertical slide.

 

[John McCullaParticipant @johnmcculla]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Tbh I hadn’t wanted to go down the collet route, it means buying a whole set of collets, but maybe that is the best option. Arc Euro have a stonking deal on an ER32 collet chuck, so I might give that a go and just buy a few individual collets for now. (Although it would involve then making a backplate which is one more thing to add the roun tuit list!)</p>

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

When I want to put the odd bit of tooling from my MT3 mill into the 280 lathe I just use a MT3-4 sleeve, make sure you get an open ended one so a drawbar can be used

But if you don’t have any existing MT3 tooling then a backplate mounted collet chuck would be the way to go. This is preferable to a taper mounted collet chuck a syou can also hold longer work in it not just short cutters

[GazParticipant @gaz13336]

Would something like this work if you were able to make a backplate to suit your lathe? https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks/ER40-Lathe-Collet-Chucks?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7NO7BhDsARIsADg_hIZ9ddJZ__HxdZv5Kq4tMKltsp-3nPfyaWM8Mp-byhI1HHrj2E3JorIaAuY8EALw_wcB

More versatile than a blank arbour for a specific cutter.

I’d imagine you’d find it difficult to find exactly what you’re after because I’d assume that manufacturers would presume that anyone with a 4mt lathe has a suitable mill but I could be wrong there.

I have a Warco WM250V lathe which I occasionally use for milling with a vertical slide.

The spindle bore of the lathe has a number 4 morse taper. I have been unable to find any endmill holders in this size, so I made my own out of one of these – https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/product/4-morse-taper-blank-end-arbour-32mm-x-42mm/ It works well and takes tooling with a 10mm shaft.

I now want to hold a few different sizes of tooling, but again I can find almost no tooling holders with a 4MT. Is my only option to buy a few more blank end arbours and make what I need, or should I look at using an adapter to 3MT like this? – https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves/Morse-Taper-Sleeves—Open-for-Drawbar-use

I was always led to believe that adapters should be avoided whenever possible, but in this instance would an adapter be a more practical option? Have people experienced increased runout or reduced rigidity while using adapters like this? What about removing that style of adapter with the two spanner flats?

[Andrew CrowParticipant @andrewcrow91475]

Thanks for the compliments both, but I had the idea from a 5c version that is supplied by ArcEuro although theirs looks very professional.

I didn’t do any plans other than on some scraps of paper just to get positioning of the parts in the right place. The only thing that was a bit of a light bulb moment was that the chuck body is reversed so that when you turn the key clockwise the collet closes as per normal chuck.

Also being a person that doesn’t like throwing anything away I’m always looking for a way to reuse whatever I can.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Arc Euro Trade quote 6205ZZ, if that is what you need.  They are likely to cost you about 4 Euros each, plus shipping, if that is any help

Howard

[Ian Hewson]

On Ian Hewson Said:

As a so called “abandoner” …

Whether or not one chooses to write to a commercial enterprise is beside the point, if it hasn’t the content then I will not purchase it.

It is not up to me to keep a business, because that is what it is, afloat, it is only my hobby, not a life style.

Ian

Whilst Ian’s view is valid, I think this isn’t a straightforward business/customer contract.  Model Engineering has a symbiotic relationship with commerce.

It is very much in our interest that firms like Morton’s, ArcEuro, Warco, Amadeal, Noggin End and others survive and prosper.  Ditto semi-commercial entities like Clubs, especially those providing tracks and facilities.  Money has to change hands.

ME and MEW result from an overlapping pro/am cooperative.  Mortons Media Group profit (I hope) by selling magazines and hosting this forum, but the content is provided by Model Engineers, for Model Engineers.   Mortons make a few bob, whilst enabling Model Engineers who have both the skills needed to make stuff and then write it up to share with the rest of us!  Plus useful advertising.   The results are pretty good, certainly compared with amateur newsletters.   Only a BF would expect perfection from the arrangement, but on average it delivers, and the value is knowledge, not financial.

Entirely up to Ian how he spends his money, but Model Engineering will die if everybody follows his lead.

Dave

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

ARC Eurotrade do ER40 imperial collets so 1/4″ (6.70mm) will probably suit your needs.

Emgee

[Peter Howell 1Participant @peterhowell1]

If as John Haine suggests I ditch Mach3, what  should I look at? Might be a good time to change. I’m using a Sieg mill, originally came from Arc Euro Trade, bundled with Mach3 and all set up for it.

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I would ask Warco how it comes.

My GH600 was delivered by a pallet delivery service in partially dismantled form – the lathe was in a purpose made crate that had pallet truck raisers, but this shipped strapped to a standard Europallet. The cabinet stand came in two carboard boxes that were strapped on top of the lathe crate. The delivery driver brought the pallet down my tarmac drive to the garage doors.

Easy enough to build up the cabinet base and dismantle the lathe crate. Less so to get my engine hoist in place to lift the lathe off the pallet(s), which prevented the engine hoist legs from getting under the machine. It took a couple of awkward part lifts to get the plywood base that the lathe was bolted to out and then get the pallet clear – only then could I get a “proper” balanced lift from a sling halshed around the bed web nearest the chuck + a piece of round bar held in the chuck bearing against the strap to stop the machine rotating backwards (overhung motor). Had a bit of a fight getting the engine hoist over a shallow step into the garage from the drive, then easy enough to position the lathe on the cabinet, then the whole lot could be lifted & moved into position. This was with machine that came out around 220kg on the stand – I knew about it when I had finished and really would not want to do this with a half tonne plus machine.

Were I doing this at ex-work it would have been easy – 3.5 tonne capacity JCB Teletruk !

If it is shipped already mounted on the stand it will be very top heavy & require carefull handling – if it starts to fall you won’t stop it (and could be seriously injured if you instictively tried to do so) and there will be damage.

Getting it delivered and positioned by someone who has the right kit, the right experience and the right insurance may work out cheaper than damaging the machine or yourself (or both) trying to do it yourself. And if they muck it up, it is their responsibility to make good your loss

Nigel B.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The Ball Oiler that you showed, second, is usually 6 mm OD, and should be available from most of the Model Enginering suppliers, such as Arc EuroTrade, Warco, RDG etc

The only way of extracting the failed one seems to be to either lever it out, if you can, or to force in a self tapper and use that as a point to be gripped in pliers, or wire cutters to prise it out.

Fitting the replacement is merely a matter of gently tapping into place with a piece of wood between nthe new Ball Oiler and the mallet or hammer.

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome!

If you can find a model engineering club local to you, go and join.

In that way you can get advice, face to face.

Whereabouts are you located in Suffolk?

But as a complete newbie, it will be worth buying a book or two.

You will need some measuring equipment. A good start would be a Digital Calliper. This will measure in Imperial or Metric units , usually up to 6″ or 150mm, external and internal. A cheapie from LIDL or Aldi might be a good start, although a Moore and Wright from Machine DRO, although more costly, is a good one.

What lathe do you have?

Don’t be ashamed of a real vintage machine, such as a Drummond, or Myford ML4, they are capable of good work, even if not as “glossy” as something new.

If a Myford 7 series, such as a ML7, Super 7 etc, L H Sparey’s “The Amateur’s Lathe” will be useful, as will Ian Bradley’s “Myford 7 Series Manual”

If a mini lathe, David Clark, Dave Fenner and Neil Wyatt have all written books on them. (There are at least three mini lathes, made by different Chinese factories, and all slightly different imported into UK)

In more general terms Stan Bray’s “Basic Lathework” (Workshop Practice Series 45) or Harold Hall’s Lathework, A Complete Course” (WPS 34) will be good.

Start off with the basics, Learn how to set up a lathe, to grind tools and set them. Then start by just cutting some mild steel, to gain a little experience.  Then progress to making simple tools.

You could copy some of the basic tools shown in catalogues (On line) from suppliers to the model engineer. In UK , such as Arc Euro Trade, Warco, RDG etc. They will be good sources of things like drills, Taps, Dies, and cutting tools. JB Cutting tools, is another good source of supply for tipped cutting tools.

One if the first to help you, would be a Centre Height Gauge, then perhaps a Sliding Die holder for the Tailstock, possibly followed by a Tap holder to go on the sane arbor (Basically, a drill chuck mounted of a body that slides along the arbor like the Die Holder)

Then while you are thinking about cutting threads, perhaps a Mandrel Handle. (useful to prevent braking taps, or stripping external threads by running into the bottom of a blind hole or against a shoulder.

Maybe not thrilling pieces, but useful for the future and to gain experience and confidence.

Better to make a mistake on a bit steel rather than an expensive casting from a kit!

All this may sound like additional expense, but will be a good investment for the future

HTH

Howard

 

[Nick HughesParticipant @nickhughes97026]

 

Here’s an example

https://www.hle.co.uk/shop/grease-nipples-connectors-accessories/k1a-ball-type-drive-in-grease-nipples/

This was the only one I could find in the U.K., there are more suppliers about, but the ones that came up in my search, are mostly in Europe

 

 

 

 

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have not looked, since would not expect any technical back up, or advice, from Amazon, which is what I would expect from reputable UK importers such as Warco, Arc Euro, Amadeal, Chester, Axminster etc.

An extra £15 could buy a lot of  help, if needed!

Howard