Mark out where the rail is to be fitted level a centre line the length of the rail.The centres of studs are usualy 400mm centres,tap the wall along the line and one should notice the sound change when finding a stud hammer a nail in along the line and you will find your first stud and the others should be 400mm alongthe line as studs are fitted to plasterboard sizes 1220mm.hope this helps

Frank

To explore for battens etc, I have used a large darning needle pressed into a a solid mounting, in turn fixed into a wooden handle. It is strong and rigid enough to probe successfully, but minimises the size of hole to be subsequently made good.

Do not rely on studs being 400mm or 16″ between centres. I fitting a handrail for a straight flight of stairs in a fairly modern house (so my friend with poor mobility had handrails both sides). I found there was just one stud half way up the stairs. Evidently the studs were at 1200mm between centres (and only nominally 2″ x 2″). I therefore had to fix the handrail with just three brackets: to this stud, to a post at the top and to a stud at the very bottom.

For fixing through dot-and-dab plasterboard, I use frame fixings but shorten the plastic plugs so they pass fully through the plasterboard. I have been known to locally fill the cavity between plasterboard and blockwork first (for a floating shelf).

Another tip I just remembered, look closely at the skirting board, if there is one, and if it does not have too many layers of paint then you may be able to see where the nail/screw heads are.

If you are really lucky, roll back the carpet edge, as there may be pencil marks on the floor indicating where the studs are.

there should also be a row or two of horizontal noggins if it is a stoothing wall.

Mark.

Thanks Peter, I’ve been wondering how to fix a cupboard to dot and dab. If anyone is having plastering done, dont let them use dot and dab, insist on browning with a skim. It takes longer but is a much better job. I’ve just had an extension built and they didn’t seal the gap twixt plasterboard and roofspace, when it was windy there was a howling gale coming out under a windowsill (also not well sealed). I hope I’ve sorted it by drilling a row of holes all round the affected wall and squirting in expanding foam. T7ime will tell

If you are fixing a hand rail to a stud and plasterboard wall you really  do need to find the timber as there are no plasterboard fixings that are strong enough. One way to do this is by drilling a series of small holes vertically and horizontally until you find one of the studs, if relatively modern they should be spaced at 600mm crts. The drilled holes can easily be filled and smoothed afterwards.

If it’s a “dot & dab” with brick or block behind, drill for your preferred plugs and if you don’t have dab behind the holes, squirt in expanding foam then push in a temporary screw to prevent the foam coming out of the hole. Once the foam has set screw on your fittings, it will give a bit of extra support to prevent the plasterboard from collapsing. Alternatively as someone has already mentioned there are metal anchors available  but there is still a risk of the plasterboard collapsing under the pressure.

Andy

Fix 1″ X 4″ to wall, and screw handrail brackets  and handrail on to it, or use “Pigs Ear” handrail.

Pigs Ear on EBAY

One of the problems with the self drilling fixings pictured above is that, if using on “Dot and Dab”, the point hits the blockwork before the body has fully sunk into the plasterboard, it will then spin and create an oversize hole!! The screws are not usually long enough either. I wouldn’t trust a cupboard on them.

Mark.

Hi,

One way of doing what you want is to screw a piece of 3″ x 1″ or 4″ x 1″ timber to the outside of the wall and screw the handrail to that. Cut a piece the right length, place it in the right position and draw a faint pencil line around it. Remove it and drill a series of 1/8″ holes in the wall along the length to locate the studs.  Then screw the timber to the wall. All the holes you drilled will be hidden under the board. Then screw the handrail fittings to the board.

I’m not sure whether the criticisms of the Gib Anchors are justified. The flanges on the fittings which support the handrail generally have 3 holes in them. If there are 3 supports (top, middle and bottom) then there will be 9 anchors to support the rail which I believe would be enough to ensure they didn’t pull out.

Regards,

Alan C.

Did not know anyone used “dots” these days. I remember it was in one of my college text books 45yrs ago but never seen it being used. They all just “dab” these days including me.

As Marks says if someone is going to by hanging off the rail or pulling themselves up the stairs use a timber or piece of MDF tso fixings go into the studs then you are free to place handrail brackets where you want and with screw heads that look right. Bit of grip fill etc on th eback of th eboard won’t hurt.

I found wattle & daub walls made plasterboard look easy as I have a few clients with very old houses, good fun hanging kitchen cabinets and wall mounted applieances off twigs and mud.