Problem with Warco WM290V

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

One question I do have is how do I get the leadscrew out from the tailend support.

it looks to have 2 threaded nuts but they are castellated(?) and I can't find 2 tools suitable for undoing them.

I am going to struggle to put it all back together until I get these undone.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Last photo the set,   looks to have bent teeth. Though could be a worm wheel

They really need a "C" spanner, easy enough to file one up if you don't have any

 

Edited By JasonB on 22/05/2017 19:28:35

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

Make a c wrench or 2

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

Posted by JasonB on 22/05/2017 19:22:30:

Last photo the set, looks to have bent teeth. Though could be a worm wheel

They really need a "C" spanner, easy enough to file one up if you don't have any

 

Edited By JasonB on 22/05/2017 19:28:35

I think it was just the angle the photo was taken at, all looks ok

Edited By Nik G on 22/05/2017 19:31:09

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

No I meant the one that is poking out of the square block that feed shaft passes through, its is a worm which may be why the teeth look bent.

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

Think it is just the angle, looks to be worm type, all teeth are of similar form

Edited By Nik G on 22/05/2017 20:00:06

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Undoing the nuts isnt a problem unless you want it to be?

I used a small brass drift and a light tap with a hammer….

Re-assembley is easy….put everything back together as was, then install the first nut on the lead screw, adjust by hand to remove any end float, then fit second, tighten to the first with your preferred method..

Edited By John Rudd on 22/05/2017 20:29:22

Edited By John Rudd on 22/05/2017 20:30:29

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

FWIW… 2nd & 3rd pics ; it looks as though the top pinion/gear is binding on the saddle / apron casing at the front, also do you have enough clearance between this & the top cover of the saddle casing when it is fitted together ?… check & see if there are any binding marks on the underside of the saddle / apron top half, if you do it may well lock up the pinion/gear when you fasten the top back to the lower half.

Pardon me for commenting but the casting to the right of the gear cluster, just above the half nut lever looks a right poor casting finish… looks like the foundry was a tad over exuberant with the fettling chisel, typically Chinese I might add, as mine left a lot to be desired as well.
I had to make 2 'C' spanners out of 3mm plate for my 250V-F lead screw removal, not difficult.

George.

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

Sorry George but not entirely clear which pinion/gear you are referencing. But will check for any binding marks.

Re. The casting I'm trying not to look too closely, although does seem the norm for a Chinese lathe

Will make some c spanners and then put it back together whilst checking for binding.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

…Sorry George but not entirely clear which pinion/gear you are referencing. But will check for any binding marks…

George.

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

Ah ok with you now, that gear wheel does stick above apron casing as it is the cross feed drive. Gear meshes with another gear on the carriage.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

What you need to look for is if there are any binding marks under the top cover or on the teeth as when you fasten up the cover it will bear down on the gear & bind up, locking everything up, in which case you may need to put a thicker joint in to give a bit more clearance., also looking at the down position of the x feed operating lever, is it pushing the front face of the gear hard up against the casting… just another couple of avenues to look at… process of elimination & all that…

George.

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

Apron back on, however feed shaft and leadscrew not fitted as yet. Still need to buy/make c spanner

Without power it is difficult to positively confirm but at present carriage travels up and down bed ok and the feed lever engages both carriage and crossfeed feeds.

So none the wiser of issue at this point

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Your mishap has rippled into the Duffer household in that my WM280 Manual has disappeared. Only a small thing in comparison but my blood pressure has gone through the roof.

I was going to look at the exploded parts diagram to see if I could understand what stops the self-act engaging when the half-nut is closed. On my machine it feels like a deliberate interlock. I wonder if moving your lathe into the cellar, perhaps tilting it, caused the interlock to engage and that dropping the apron to look inside freed it.

If it's any consolation at all, many thanks for sharing what you've done about the problem. Now I've seen the photos of your lathe in bits I'm much more confident about servicing mine should the need arise!

Hope you have it working soon and that the problem never recurs.

Dave

[Nik GParticipant @nikg]

All back together now and initial checks indicate that all is well and working.

So none the wiser to cause at this time, can only think something had got jarred during transport and locked solid

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Good for you Nik, at least now you can get on with making a load of swarf with your machine, & possibly having something completed at the end of all that swarf. Glad to have been of some help anyway.

George.

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