Glue du jour

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  • #27091
    Bob Unitt 1
    Participant
      @bobunitt1

      asking about glue for steel

      #448068
      Bob Unitt 1
      Participant
        @bobunitt1

        I have to stick a 1/4 silver steel pin into a 1/4 reamed hole in mild steel, what's the best glue for that these days ?

        #448073
        Mick B1
        Participant
          @mickb1

          Size to size is an interference fit. The best adhesive would be an anaerobic – maybe Loctite 271?

          Depending on the force(s) the joint has to withstand, it might help to knurl up the silver steel a bit for a more severe graunch fit, then force assembly with a vice or suchlike. Or perhaps silver solder if the pin's not hardened.

          Edited By Mick B1 on 21/01/2020 17:24:29

          #448077
          Emgee
          Participant
            @emgee

            Bob

            As the pin is likely to be undersize and the reamed hole oversize if you don't knurl the pin as suggested you will have to provide means to keep the pin square with the plate while the Loctite or glue you use cures.
            If using a tapered nose hand reamer you could leave part of the hole slightly undersize to give the pin support.

            Emgee

            #448093
            Bob Unitt 1
            Participant
              @bobunitt1

              Thanks folks. I've already reamed the holes, and the pins are from 1/4" stock. The parts aren't heavily stressed anyway, they're just the locating pins on the Worden's Woodworker's Grinding Attachment. I'll see if I can find the Loctite locally (I'm a bit out in the sticks here, so I expect it will be mail-order in the end). I probably have some old Loctite knocking around here, but it would have been bought in the 20th century…

              #448109
              Jeff Dayman
              Participant
                @jeffdayman43397

                one old trick that works to retain pins in holes is to gently peen over the edge of the hole (a little) on one side to start. Peen only on the opposite end you want to install the pin in. The peened area will give a little friction to hold the pin but still allow disassembly if needed.

                #448110
                Mick B1
                Participant
                  @mickb1
                  Posted by Bob Unitt 1 on 21/01/2020 18:55:36:

                  Thanks folks. I've already reamed the holes, and the pins are from 1/4" stock. The parts aren't heavily stressed anyway, they're just the locating pins on the Worden's Woodworker's Grinding Attachment. I'll see if I can find the Loctite locally (I'm a bit out in the sticks here, so I expect it will be mail-order in the end). I probably have some old Loctite knocking around here, but it would have been bought in the 20th century…

                  I only suggested 271 'cos I used it to fix the crankpin in my Stuart 10V back in about '95, plus a few other things and they were all very sound. So mine's from last century too. There may be other grades as good or better.

                  If the pin's silver steel it's likely to be accurate to size within a tenth or so. If the reamer's an H7 fit it could be potentially max about 5 tenths undersize, though any eccentricity of hold – or almost any other variable – will tend to open it up. That's why I was basing on a size and size fit, but that could obviously be at variance with your particular facts.

                  #448145
                  John Olsen
                  Participant
                    @johnolsen79199

                    My understanding is that if Loctite is still runny, it is still good. So if you can still get it out of the bottle it should be OK. (Maybe not if you are working on life critical stuff! )

                    It can go off in the bottle, especially if you do things like clearing the nozzle with a metal pin. Metal ions will catalyze the reaction.

                    John

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