Best dia slitting saw arbour to buy?

[Mark EasingwoodParticipant @markeasingwood33578]

Jason, I mostly agree with your list of woodworking machinery, but my 400mm dia. radial arm saw does have a pin through the blade, as do some 400mm and larger saw bench blades.

The front blocks on the circa 1962 tenoner are keywayed. The scribing heads, were originally pinned. The pins have been removed to fit the newer type “safe” blocks, effectively the same as spindle moulder blocks. The four sided planer has no keyways, the blocks in that are similar to a 230mm long slab mill. The opposing direction rotating heads have R/H and L/H threads, so shouldn’t undo themselves.

I have run a spindle moulder in reverse, to make a curved architrave, it was the only way to do it, but I did make sure the nut was good and tight!! You are advised to use a lock nut, but they are never supplied!

I think some German moulders used a, “Hydro-Lock ??” system were the blocks locked on to the spindles by pumping grease into a nipple on the end of the block, so nipping the block bore onto the shaft.

I wonder if keyways are fitted to slitting saws etc in case the spindle is run in the “wrong” rotational direction, so then if, (when!), the nut loosens, the blade can’t spin?

Mark.

[cedric 1Participant @cedric]

When I worked in machine shops we never ran keys in slitting saws, by order of Those Who Must Be Obeyed. I think circular saw blades etc cutting wood with a 1hp motor is one thing. But a 1.6mm slitting saw cutting steel in a Cincinatti mill with 10 or 20hp driving it is another.  Your Seig 2.7 mill is probably not going to do much other than stall if a blade jams.

[Julie AnnParticipant @julieann]

Many of the items in Jasons list are spinning orders of magnitude faster than a slitting saw. Given similar, or lower, power the torque, and cutting forces, will be much lower than for a slitting saw. Consequently keys are probably not needed. If a key is missing the spindle will be unbalanced; not a problem at 100rpm but might be at 10000rpm.

Julie

[cedric 1]

On cedric 1 Said:

When I worked in machine shops we never ran keys in slitting saws, by order of Those Who Must Be Obeyed. I think circular saw blades etc cutting wood with a 1hp motor is one thing. But a 1.6mm slitting saw cutting steel in a Cincinatti mill with 10 or 20hp driving it is another.  <b>Your Seig 2.7 mill is probably not going to do much other than stall if a blade jams.</b>

Cedric,

Are you forgetting/ignoring the possibiity of over-heating the motor, or the circuit board going pop – particularly for brushed motors  – while running at slow speed?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

SX 2.7 has quiet a good overload protection of its brushless motor.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

I wonder why we don’t tend to use keys in other similar items, I can think of quite a few that I have and none use any form of positive drive to the cutter. What makes a slitting saw need a keyway when other items don’t?

Table saw

Radial arm saw

Cross Cut Mitre saws

Mains and cordless circular saws

Biscuit joiner

Various disc type router cutters

Spindle moulder tooling

Wet diamond saw

9″ and 115mm angle grinders

I’d posit that slitting saws have a smaller bore and / or clamping radius / area that the other examples. While this increases the depth of cut it also reduces the torque that can be applied without slippage hence use of a key.

Robert.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Angle grinder typically 22mm

US based radial, table and handheld are typically 5/8″

Cordless circ saws 20mm

wet saw 16mm

router 1/4 to 3/8

Spindle and euro tablesaw are the only larger one at 30mm but I did used to have a 20mm spindle.

So not really a case of 1″ or 22mm slitting saws having a smaller bore

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

Angle grinder typically 22mm

US based radial, table and handheld are typically 5/8″

Cordless circ saws 20mm

wet saw 16mm

router 1/4 to 3/8

Spindle and euro tablesaw are the only larger one at 30mm but I did used to have a 20mm spindle.

So not really a case of 1″ or 22mm slitting saws having a smaller bore

I did say and / or clamping radius or area. They use relatively large diameter washers. Even with a dished washer giving similar area a bigger diameter can transmit more torque and thus power.

 

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Well Sod’s Law currently can’t find a 22mm R8 arbor that’s in stock, I guess I’m not the only one wanting one 🙂

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Buy a blank arbor and make your own?

– Also – arguably – a 1″ arbor might fit a wider range of saws and cutters..

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Might also be worth seaching for a “stub Milling arbor” rather than just a saw arbor then you can mount gear cutters on it too.

I like the type Chronos do with the CSK screw rather than the large nut as you can get closer to the top of your vice. Alas, out of stock.

[Phil LinghamParticipant @phillingham79132]

I made yokes for my Triton a few years ago, for the clamp on the bottom yoke rather than a slitting saw I used a 5mm long series slot drill.

Food for thought perhaps?

All done on manual machines.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

If you cannot find a 22mm arbor, you might as well go up to 1″, but do some research first on the availability of saw blades.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Warco probably not a bad place to start..

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Buy a blank arbor and make your own?

Whilst I guess you can hold one end of a blank R8 arbor in a 4 jaw and clock it pretty true, I’m not certain it would be 100% true on the taper but I’ve never needed to do it thus far. I think I’d be tempted to just make a straight shank holder and use it in a collet chuck.  It sounds simpler to do.

Of course, others may have already done this operation with no problems at sll…

Regards,

 

IanT

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Very nice work Phil!

 

yes very interesting…. I have seen that method of clamping a lot on classics which is what mine is going on… but it felt a bit wrong?
What I mean is it’s not on modern bikes but was all the rage?!

 

pros are that it’s very clean and looks good.

does it clamp aswell? What clearance did you give your bores?

my forks are 43mm so I’ve bored my holes to 43mm

 

and my stem 25mm

 

cheers!

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

Might also be worth seaching for a “stub Milling arbor” rather than just a saw arbor then you can mount gear cutters on it too.

I like the type Chronos do with the CSK screw rather than the large nut as you can get closer to the top of your vice. Alas, out of stock.

Yeah to be honest that was the one I wanted or the rotagrip which is similar

 

I may just wait till it’s in stock to be honest!

[IanT]

On IanT Said:

Buy a blank arbor and make your own?

Whilst I guess you can hold one end of a blank R8 arbor in a 4 jaw and clock it pretty true, I’m not certain it would be 100% true on the taper but I’ve never needed to do it thus far. I think I’d be tempted to just make a straight shank holder and use it in a collet chuck.  It sounds simpler to do.

Of course, others may have already done this operation with no problems at sll…

Regards,

 

IanT

Clamp a lathe tool in the mill vice, mount the blank arbor in the mill spindle and bring down the head to make the cuts.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

On IanT Said:

Buy a blank arbor and make your own?

Whilst I guess you can hold one end of a blank R8 arbor in a 4 jaw and clock it pretty true, I’m not certain it would be 100% true on the taper but I’ve never needed to do it thus far. I think I’d be tempted to just make a straight shank holder and use it in a collet chuck.  It sounds simpler to do.

Of course, others may have already done this operation with no problems at sll…

Regards,

 

IanT

Clamp a lathe tool in the mill vice, mount the blank arbor in the mill spindle and bring down the head to make the cuts.

Nice way to do it! Especially as my lathe control board is currently dead!

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

[andy198712]

On andy198712 Said:

Very nice work Phil!

 

yes very interesting…. I have seen that method of clamping a lot on classics which is what mine is going on… but it felt a bit wrong?
What I mean is it’s not on modern bikes but was all the rage?!

 

pros are that it’s very clean and looks good.

does it clamp aswell? What clearance did you give your bores?

my forks are 43mm so I’ve bored my holes to 43mm

 

and my stem 25mm

 

cheers!

Andy

The clamping is absolutely fine, but that’s why I relieved the thickness under the clamping screws to allow a little more flex.

I can’t remember exactly what clearance I gave but I actually done the boring in the lathe as I didn’t posses a boring head at that time. I used a fork tube as a gauge and bored to the minimum clearance to allow a sliding fit so they could be assembled.

My stem is 13/16″ to match the original Norton Roadholder top nut, 7/8″ into the bottom yoke.  The top yoke is bored 25.4 again to match the original top nut.

Not shown in the photo but there is a 3mm wide slot to clamp the stem into the bottom yoke with a 3mm deep undercut in the stem so that the clamp screw also acts as a cotter.  The slot was made with a slitting saw – to answer the original question mine are all 1″ bore and 4″ diameter.

Out of interest what are yours going on?

Phil

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

I might have a go at replacing mine sometime in the future (Too many other projects on the go at the moment)

But when I do will have a go at this one.

https://youtu.be/UPZD7EgNDlQ?si=eT1jh8j-2jg0UlvL

[VicParticipant @vic]

Almost all of my slitting saws are 1” bore. My first arbor though was a cheap stepped type that took multiple sizes of saw.

[Phil Lingham]

On Phil Lingham Said:

On andy198712 Said:

Very nice work Phil!

 

yes very interesting…. I have seen that method of clamping a lot on classics which is what mine is going on… but it felt a bit wrong?
What I mean is it’s not on modern bikes but was all the rage?!

 

pros are that it’s very clean and looks good.

does it clamp aswell? What clearance did you give your bores?

my forks are 43mm so I’ve bored my holes to 43mm

 

and my stem 25mm

 

cheers!

Andy

The clamping is absolutely fine, but that’s why I relieved the thickness under the clamping screws to allow a little more flex.

I can’t remember exactly what clearance I gave but I actually done the boring in the lathe as I didn’t posses a boring head at that time. I used a fork tube as a gauge and bored to the minimum clearance to allow a sliding fit so they could be assembled.

My stem is 13/16″ to match the original Norton Roadholder top nut, 7/8″ into the bottom yoke.  The top yoke is bored 25.4 again to match the original top nut.

Not shown in the photo but there is a 3mm wide slot to clamp the stem into the bottom yoke with a 3mm deep undercut in the stem so that the clamp screw also acts as a cotter.  The slot was made with a slitting saw – to answer the original question mine are all 1″ bore and 4″ diameter.

Out of interest what are yours going on?

Phil

Cheers Phil, nicely done!
so my top yoke is 25mm and my bottom is going to be 50mm

not started the bottom yet, but I clamped them together and drilled the 3 pilot holes so those will be aligned to each other. That 50mm part will take some milling!
been using a rougher/ripper 10mm endmill and it’s been going through it like butter with full width, 5mm DOC. That impressed me!

so this going on my BSA Bantam… I know I know….

its to fit 2000 Yamaha R6 forks, a Honda CB550/750 hub and twin disc brakes off the R6….. as you do

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

 

ready for slit sawing now, will work out the dia saw I need, but want it 3mm thick comparing to my KTM clamps for comparison

 

[Author]

Posts