Plans query

This topic has 17 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 7 January 2012 at 16:21 by JasonB.

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4 January 2012 at 18:18 #81263
Wolfie
Participant
@wolfie
OK on my sStuart model plan there is a list of parts with their materials.

Part 30, the eccentric rod isn’t marked as stainless steel or brass nor anything else. Its entry simply says ‘finished’.

Whats that supposed to mean then?
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4 January 2012 at 18:18 #5838
Wolfie
Participant
@wolfie
What does ‘finished’ mean?
4 January 2012 at 18:23 #81264
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I would think its either a bit of 3/32 or 1/8 mild steel round

Can’t think what tehy mean by finished, posibly needs no machining except threading the ends??

J
4 January 2012 at 19:57 #81272
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
Hi There

It is a long threaded rod with a closed loop on the end.

That is why it is finished.

regards David
4 January 2012 at 19:58 #81273
The Merry Miller
Participant
@themerrymiller
Like the eccentric rod on my S50. Because it is a tricky part to make especially where the small bush forms an integral part of the rod, it is supplied by Stuart fully finished and ready to go.

If you are contemplating making it from scratch, it’s made from mild steel and the best of luck!!!

Len. P.
5 January 2012 at 20:54 #81357
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Make the eye on the end of some square stock and the rod from, ahem, rod, and silver solder them together.

Neil
5 January 2012 at 22:09 #81370
The Merry Miller
Participant
@themerrymiller
Just to reiterate, the S50 rod is machined totally from one piece of mild steel.

Len. P.
5 January 2012 at 23:50 #81379
Wolfie
Participant
@wolfie
OK I’ve tried twice now to make a ring that screws onto the rod, theres not enough thread to make it stay on

Edited By Wolfie on 06/01/2012 00:02:14
6 January 2012 at 08:07 #81390
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Wolfie, to make the ring on the end of the shaft put a bit of steel in the lathe preferably the OD you need or turn down a short length to suit. Next drill the end to suit your pin and ream if you want

Now take the bar out of the lathe and drill in from one side with a 1/16″ hole, now put the bar back in the lathe and part off the ring and put it somewhere safe.

Now take the eccentric rod and turn a short 1/16″ spigot on teh end that just fits the drilled cross hole.

You can then silver solder the two together, the spigot & hole keeps things in place and adds surface area to the joint.

I’ll put up a photo of one I did earlier in the week in a while

J
6 January 2012 at 08:53 #81393
Wolfie
Participant
@wolfie
I don’t know how to silver solder

I can solder electronic things, is it the same as that.
6 January 2012 at 08:58 #81394
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
It needs a lot more heat and is done with a torch not an iron, its something you will need to learn but best in another thread. Its a harder solder than the “soft solder” used for electronics and plumbing so a much stronger joint.

J

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 09:17:40
6 January 2012 at 19:36 #81424
Brian Dickinson 2
Participant
@briandickinson2
Hey matey, Have a look here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J95soMXxhNc

Hope this helps

Brian
6 January 2012 at 19:47 #81426
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Sorry Brian I’d say ignor that Video as 95% of it has nothing to do with the type of silver soldering we are talking about here or on Wolfies new thread on soldering

Torches are too small

Types of solder mentioned are jewelry grades

Fluxes are not what would be used

No joint gap

Cleaning with Emery

And most dangerous of all quencing in acid

And so on

Jason

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 19:48:44

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 20:11:11
6 January 2012 at 21:12 #81451
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
For the size Wolfie is looking at I would use my “cook’s blowtorch”.

Neil
7 January 2012 at 07:59 #81479
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I hardly ever use the smaller nozzels on my torch, prefering to get the part upto temp as soon as possible, that pic above is 1/8″ stainless into a 5/16″ mild steel eye and done with a 1″ burner.

J
7 January 2012 at 12:59 #81504
Steve Withnell
Participant
@stevewithnell34426
I agree Jason, I use my one inch burner for silver soldering most things, it’s a lot easier to work with plenty of heat, but a bugger trying to work with not quite enough.
7 January 2012 at 14:26 #81506
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Sorry Jason,

Having followed a silversmithing course, the solders for silver are much the same as we use and are also produced by Johnson Matthey. As with ‘our’ solders the main difference is that silver solders have a higher silver content (minimum 67%) for hallmarking purposes, but melt at similar temperatures. Borax is a perfectly good flux for all silver soldering but it does have a shorter ‘life’. That means simply that one has to solder relatively quickly so that the flux does not lose it’s effectiveness with excessively prolonged heating. As you say that you like to work quickly with large torches it would be no problem.

Obviously with jewellery work joint gap is not such a problem as strength is not a major consideration in most work. In our type of work the gaps, while necessary should not be excessive, at around 4 or 5 thou at the most. Silver solder is very poor at gap filling.

Best regards

Terry
7 January 2012 at 16:21 #81520
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Terry what I was trying to stop wolfie doing was going on line and buying excessively expensive jewelry solder & borax flux, having inadequate gaps for the solder to flow and picking up dangerous habits like quenching hot metal in acid and cleaning with emery

The Borax is also not that good when you come to bigger assemblies as it will get exhausted before enough heat is in the job, I knocked this up the other day, at 6″ long I doubt easyflow flux would have done the job, let alone a borax cone, HT5 being the best option.

J
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