Plans query

[WolfieParticipant @wolfie]

OK on my sStuart model plan there is a list of parts with their materials.

 

Part 30, the eccentric rod isn’t marked as stainless steel or brass nor anything else. Its entry simply says ‘finished’.

 

Whats that supposed to mean then?

[WolfieParticipant @wolfie]

What does ‘finished’ mean?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would think its either a bit of 3/32 or 1/8 mild steel round

 

Can’t think what tehy mean by finished, posibly needs no machining except threading the ends??

 

J

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

It is a long threaded rod with a closed loop on the end.

That is why it is finished.

regards David

 

 

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

Like the eccentric rod on my S50. Because it is a tricky part to make especially where the small bush forms an integral part of the rod, it is supplied by Stuart fully finished and ready to go.

If you are contemplating making it from scratch, it’s made from mild steel and the best of luck!!!

 

Len. P.

 

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Make the eye on the end of some square stock and the rod from, ahem, rod, and silver solder them together.

 

Neil

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

Just to reiterate, the S50 rod is machined totally from one piece of mild steel.

 

Len. P.

 

[WolfieParticipant @wolfie]

OK I’ve tried twice now to make a ring that screws onto the rod, theres not enough thread to make it stay on

Edited By Wolfie on 06/01/2012 00:02:14

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Wolfie, to make the ring on the end of the shaft put a bit of steel in the lathe preferably the OD you need or turn down a short length to suit. Next drill the end to suit your pin and ream if you want

 

Now take the bar out of the lathe and drill in from one side with a 1/16″ hole, now put the bar back in the lathe and part off the ring and put it somewhere safe.

 

Now take the eccentric rod and turn a short 1/16″ spigot on teh end that just fits the drilled cross hole.

 

You can then silver solder the two together, the spigot & hole keeps things in place and adds surface area to the joint.

 

I’ll put up a photo of one I did earlier in the week in a while

 

J

 

 

 

 

[WolfieParticipant @wolfie]

I don’t know how to silver solder

I can solder electronic things, is it the same as that.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

 

 

It needs a lot more heat and is done with a torch not an iron, its something you will need to learn but best in another thread. Its a harder solder than the “soft solder” used for electronics and plumbing so a much stronger joint.

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 09:17:40

[Brian Dickinson 2Participant @briandickinson2]

Hey matey, Have a look here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J95soMXxhNc

 

Hope this helps

 

Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Sorry Brian I’d say ignor that Video as 95% of it has nothing to do with the type of silver soldering we are talking about here or on Wolfies new thread on soldering

 

Torches are too small

Types of solder mentioned are jewelry grades

Fluxes are not what would be used

No joint gap

Cleaning with Emery

And most dangerous of all quencing in acid

 

And so on

 

Jason

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 19:48:44

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2012 20:11:11

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

For the size Wolfie is looking at I would use my “cook’s blowtorch”.

 

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I hardly ever use the smaller nozzels on my torch, prefering to get the part upto temp as soon as possible, that pic above is 1/8″ stainless into a 5/16″ mild steel eye and done with a 1″ burner.

 

J

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

I agree Jason, I use my one inch burner for silver soldering most things, it’s a lot easier to work with plenty of heat, but a bugger trying to work with not quite enough.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Sorry Jason,

 

Having followed a silversmithing course, the solders for silver are much the same as we use and are also produced by Johnson Matthey. As with ‘our’ solders the main difference is that silver solders have a higher silver content (minimum 67%) for hallmarking purposes, but melt at similar temperatures. Borax is a perfectly good flux for all silver soldering but it does have a shorter ‘life’. That means simply that one has to solder relatively quickly so that the flux does not lose it’s effectiveness with excessively prolonged heating. As you say that you like to work quickly with large torches it would be no problem.

 

Obviously with jewellery work joint gap is not such a problem as strength is not a major consideration in most work. In our type of work the gaps, while necessary should not be excessive, at around 4 or 5 thou at the most. Silver solder is very poor at gap filling.

 

Best regards

 

Terry

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Terry what I was trying to stop wolfie doing was going on line and buying excessively expensive jewelry solder & borax flux, having inadequate gaps for the solder to flow and picking up dangerous habits like quenching hot metal in acid and cleaning with emery

 

The Borax is also not that good when you come to bigger assemblies as it will get exhausted before enough heat is in the job, I knocked this up the other day, at 6″ long I doubt easyflow flux would have done the job, let alone a borax cone, HT5 being the best option.

 

J

[Author]

Posts