Myford chucks

This topic has 9 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 13 June 2011 at 16:50 by The Merry Miller.

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11 June 2011 at 20:17 #70147
Mark Millward 1
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@markmillward1
How far should chucks go onto the spindle thread of an ML7 ? Put another way, how many turns is a minimum ? None of mine go fully on and all seems very clean.

Mark Millward
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11 June 2011 at 20:17 #5541
Mark Millward 1
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@markmillward1
11 June 2011 at 21:23 #70148
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
Mark, they should go right up to the face of the mandrel.

If they do not then re-clean the male and female threads and try again.

If you still have trouble then using a cotton wool bud apply a smear of blue on the male thread and plain part and see where it is catching.

I have noticed on my 3 jaw chuck some slight scrape marks inside the plain part of the chuck body as if someone has relieved the plain part!

I dont use any lubricant on my chuck threads at all. The only part I clean and lube is the scroll and jaw teeth. For this I use a stiff graphite grease.

Under no circumstance try and force the chuck onto the mandrel, it should go very easy if clean.

Clive
11 June 2011 at 21:24 #70149
Tony Pratt 1
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@tonypratt1
The chuck should screw on until the chuck register face meets the spindle register face, the threads shouldn’t bind at all.

Tony
11 June 2011 at 22:53 #70150
Chris Trice
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@christrice43267
Are the chuck bodies threaded or are they fitted to a backplate? If a chuck backplate has been machined too thin, the spindle nose can protrude through it and contact the rear face of the chuck body stopping it screwing fully home.
12 June 2011 at 09:29 #70162
David Clark 13
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@davidclark13
Hi Mark

Take the chuck of the backplate.

Does the backplate go right up to the shoulder?

It should do.

regards David
12 June 2011 at 22:45 #70230
Mark Millward 1
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@markmillward1
Thanks for your replies. I have spent ages cleaning the threads and things are getting easier. I believe a bit of aluminium swarf got in the thread and caused the binding. I should like to run a tap and die over the threads but they seem a bit expensive so will persevere with the wire brush and magnifying glass. Thanks again.

Mark
13 June 2011 at 09:36 #70238
KWIL
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@kwil
Mark,

You can make a thread cleaner for the backplate from a piece of piano wire, a long half loop with the ends turned outwards, with enough spring to push into the bottom of the threads, but not that much that it scratches the metal. I am not as keen as Clive on no lubricant, a trace of sewing machine oil should suffice. I have the taps but I do not suppose you are anywhere near.
13 June 2011 at 13:30 #70252
Chris B
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@chrisb73862
I used a 4″ nail bent into an L shape, the point gets into the root of the thread and will displace any swarf when you run it round the thread.
13 June 2011 at 16:50 #70263
The Merry Miller
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@themerrymiller
I use a small wooden backed brass wire brush that effectively screws itself into the thread and out the other side.
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