Building the V-Twin “Kelsey”

[Adrian R2Participant @adrianr2]

So who is building the boat for it then?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

From the thread linked to in my opening post the boat is already built.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

With the engine tested one of the last jobs that can be done is to soften the “barstock” parts so it looks a bit more like a cast engine.

If you left the standard and bearing block at their full thickness then they wil be flush with the edge of the base so mark the edges where the are flush as they want to remain square.

If like me you recessed the flat areas they will actually be sitting back from the bases edge so the whole edge can be rounded over. Although round over cutters can be bought they leave a very regular radius so I prefer to knock off the corners with a file, here the whole of the base has been done.

The same can be done to the standard and bearing block. Leave the bottoms square as well as the edges to the port faces but everything else can be done.

The last thing to do is paint the engine, so after a clean with thinners mask of any of the machined faces where paint is not wanted. For flat surfaces the masking tape can easily be trimmed to shape by lightly dragging an old needle file backwards over the corners with the file at approx 45degrees to the surface.

To hold the individual parts I use some old paint brush handles as the taper can be pushed onto hole sin the parts, for items that don’t have suitable holes the end of the handle can be stuck with hot melt glue which easily peels off afterwards.

The non ferrous metals should first be given a light coat of “etch primer”, then use a standard primer of the correct colour to suit your top coat. The steel and iron parts can also be primed with this. When dry apply the colour, I went with a mix of satin black and a matt apple green.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Although screws could be used to hold the cylinder covers on a mor etraditional look i sto use studs and nuts. As the covers are only 2mm thick there is not much point in trying to make studs with an unthreaded middle section a sit woul dbe so short. So I just threaded a length of 2mm rod M2, cut into lengths and lightly domed one end by rolling a file over it while rotating in the lathe. A good dodge to get the same amount of thread sticking up above each nut is ti loctite the nut sinto position first which turns then into a hex head screw as you can see in the images above.

The engine can now be put back together oiling te hmoving parts and adding gland packing and O rings if you want. I did not bother. Not being a fan of traditional gaskets on these small models I applied a very sparing amount of clear liquid gasket to the endcover to cylinder joints.

As the engine was intended for boat us ethe flywheel hangs below the bottom of teh base which helps with the propellor shaft angle so if just running for display the engine will need raising up. You could machine up a couple of wooden bearers or turn and tap some short spacers that can be held on with screws which is what I opted for.

All that is left now is to connect up with your chosen power source and enjoy. I look forward to seeing a few more of these over the coming weeks and months. Any questions just ask. Drawings have been updated throughout the time I have been writing this build thread and now show all the parts.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Amazing to have covered all this in a month!

– For those with serious intent who might wish to consider taking up ‘bronze’ options, what material / grades do you think would be most suitable?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think it took longer to write up than to make! Also as you know I tend to just take my working sizes off the 3D model and don’t do a full set of 2D drawings for my own use so that added to the time spent getting it here. Though I suppose I could have just photographed my “working drawings” 😊

If you wanted more than the brass option (CZ121) then given the number of long passages to be drilled something with a bit of lead in it would be far nicer to work with.

This is not so easy to find in flat bar so you would probably have to get a slice cut off some round bar. The minimum you could get the standard out of is 82mm diameter.

Looking at M-machine then a couple of likely candidates are LG2 (CC491k) leaded gunmetal which they do in 3.25″ dia or SAE660 which is another Leaded bronze and a bit cheaper in the 86mm diameter. Have them cut it about 15mm long which will allow for clean up but not waste too much material.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

For those who feel they may be running out of time to get one made by Christmas Kelsey may have an unmarried sister who is quite easy😉

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

What ever happened to the drawing on the back of a fag packet. Enjoyed the journey from start to finish thank you Jason. I am trying to get the hang of Freecad getting there slowly.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Jason

Thanks for doing the drawings and write up for this.

I built your Muncaster Simple Entablature engine as my first project and found your detailed explanation on how to make each part very useful.

Hopefully your latest one will help others who are just starting out.

Stuart

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Hope you don’t mind me posting a link to that ^^^ thread for anyone interested – ?7 years ago to the day..

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/topic/muncasters-simple-entablature-engine/?topic=muncasters-simple-entablature-engine&post_type=topic

Also to this because it’s a nice engine of a completely different type that also comes with words, music, and drawings

https://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Jowitt_engine_build.html

 

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Thank you for your detailed efforts, Jason

I have really enjoyed reading this over the last couple of days, and I’ve picked up loads of tips and ideas for workarounds. I will have a go at this myself when I get some time.

Like some on here, I do not know CAD. I create my drawings on MS Visio, but this is so wasteful as I cannot ‘undo’ progress (beyond about 5 steps – at the time of drawing) and cannot progress it to 3D. So your drawings and Materials Lists are great to see, and surely make it more achievable and less likely to be just a pipe dream.

Cheers

 

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Thanks for the comments.

The unlimited room of a forum thread does make it easy to add as much text and even more so images to a build description compared to one that may go into the mag where it may appear as packing out to a lot of the readers but is what the smaller number of beginners need.

I’m not sure what or when the next build with drawings may appear, The more complex engines would be a lot of work to write up to this sort of detail and there would also be a lot more drawings to produce so I’ll just keep doing those as I do now with some photos and describing the more interesting bits.

Luckily I do still enjoy making these smaller engines as something quick between the larger projects, I have a few possibles stored away or like this one something will crop up and I’ll want to get on with it straight away.

A few of the smaller ones being considered

 

 

[Adrian R2Participant @adrianr2]

How about this one? Ball raced, clocked at 18000rpm according to description.

https://www.stationroadsteam.com/high-speed-v-twin-marine-engine-and-scott-boiler-stock-code-1746/

On magazine space constraints, another journal I read has the concept of online “companion pages” – for each physical magazine issued there is a matching online section on their website containing digital artefacts and additional information. Could be done here as a forum topic or topics.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I do a thread to go with most of my articles. usually just additional photos and a few other bits but the thread also allows anyone to ask questions etc about the article.

Neil doe supload some additional material relating to article linked by a QR code in the mag which takes you to these things that tend to get lost under the News heading as most people just visit for the forum.

I’m not sure if my compressor could keep up with that vee twin flash steam engine, also not that appealing to my eye – more function over form.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Well it seems Kelsey has another single sister, closely related to the bright red oscillator shown a few posts above. I can see a bit of 3D metal printing in my future.

 

[andyp123Participant @andyp123]

Many thanks Jason, this has been fascinating to watch the progress. As a Methodist Minister, i have been a bit busy these past few weeks, too busy to get any time in my workshop, but the big day is near and a new year project is looking promising.

Thanks Jason, I have learnt so much from your informative comments and super photos.

 

 

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

.. …I can see a bit of 3D metal printing in my future… ..

 

Yes, be interested in seeing more of that..

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Thanks Andy, look forward to seeing some of your progress in the new year.

Order was placed with Craftcloud on Wednesday morning for the 3D prints and due by 1st Jan. Will probably do a new thread for that one but have some proper castings from my own patterns to keep me occupied over Xmas hols.

I also managed to find a video of the subject engine as I only had  aphoto to work from previously.

 

 

[renardiere7Participant @renardiere7]

That axial cam will be interesting to machine. I need to look up where Dukinfield is.

[KEITH BEAUMONTParticipant @keithbeaumont45476]

What is facinating,watching that video, is the variation of designs following the same “hit & miss” principle!

You have plenty of future models to copy there, Jason.

Keith.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Is there time for another engine before the end of the year? Just arrived, 10 days from sending the file to being delivered.

Though it will probably just have to be the one engine.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Yay! – Model Engineering!

..what supermarket are they from?

..are they CE marked?

..will your Drills From Brazil cut oversize?

– please cut some metal!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

– Well someone has got to do a bit.

– Craftcloud, Chinese print house via German company.

– No I did not model the CE logo in Alibre to put on the bottom so just as I wanted. Also no warning that the engine may contain Nuts!

– Who cares about the Drills, all holes are there but undersize so just need reaming with my reamers from China and Korea

– Swarf production is underway, you should not need to ask. I hope to have “Willy” the little Wobbler complete before the new year strikes.

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

What material are they? look like cast

You have an efficient workshop if you can turn one around before NY. Good luck.

cheers

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

They are 3D metal printed in Aluminium and I went for the bead blasted finish.

[Author]

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