Pozilock collet chuck

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

G'day all

Just purchased a Pozilock collet chuck, as pictured. It was supposedly 2MT shank but is actually 3MT. Does anyone here KNOW how to remove the shank, please? There is an easily removed grub screw but, even looking through a loupe it is not clear whether the fixing is screwed or intererence or, if screwed , LH or RH. It appears this was originally purchased from Chester so, probably lots around.

TIA

Rgds

Bill

 

PS What a truly awful, awful piece of software this forum is

Edited By Cornish Jack on 27/10/2012 14:22:09

[keithmartParticipant @keithmart]

Hi

Looking on the chester site it says the shank is tapped either 8 (for 2MT) or 10mm (for 3MT)

regards

Keith

Leeds UK

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

I think you might find that is the drawbar thread? The site actually says M10 and M12

Edited By KWIL on 27/10/2012 15:47:50

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I will have to get out to the garage to check for certain, but IIRC mine is a one-piece body & taper. I seem to think that the grub screw retains the centre point in the bottom that the centre hole of the cutter locates on.

HTH

Nigel B.

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

I've just checked mine.

The grubscrew is reduced in diameter at the end and forms the rotation stop for the collets.

The rest of it is, as Nigel's is, a completely integrated body and taper.

Len. P.

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Thank you Keith, Kwil and Nigel.

The thread sizes mentioned are, indeed, for the drawbar.

Looking down the 'throat' from the front, the shank and body are distinctly different (colour and material) with a definite joint line. I have tried lightly applying a 'Birmingham Screwdriver' but I'm reluctant to give it lots of 'welly' for obvious reasons. My limited engineering intelligence would think that an interference fit join would make most manufacturing sense but would much appreciate info from anyone who knows for sure.

Rgds

Bill

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I thought the grub screw holds the conicle center in place. The body and taper are one piece on mine anyway. Just been out to look at it, the grub screw (a) stops rotation of the collet, and (b) stops rotation of the center, the center has two flats, the grub screw bares on one of these. Looking down the draw bar hole I think I see the other end of the center, maybe 3/8" 10 mm dia, or a little less. Ian S C

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Thank you Ian

I see what you mean about the grub screw. Looking down the 'mouth' of the body, there is a definite difference in colour between the body and the end of the shank. I'm now considering sawing off/drilling out the shank and boring the body to take a 2MT shank. Any thoughts as to feasibility, anyone, please?

Rgds

Bill

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Bill

I have one of these with No 3 MT.

Various parts of it have a black finish and I see that you might think that the interface between the body and shank is a joint as there is a black line. However looking at this through a watchmakers loupe there is no evodence of any gap. I suspect that during the manifacturing process the black coating is applied prior to final machining and what you see at the interface is just a bit of remaining black finish after the final machining has been made.

So I guess your options are :-

1. Return for exchange or refund

2. Find someone who wants to swop

3. Attempt to reduce shank to 2MT ( It's a very nicely ground finish so difficult to replicate)

4.Sell it on ebay or similar.

5. Buy a mill with a 3MT spindle!

6. Your suggestion – I await others opinions but you will need to be very accurate.

Good Luck!

Norman

 

 

Edited By NJH on 28/10/2012 11:49:23

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I would not attempt to do that modification, my one is M3, I don't think the idea is practical, better to sell that one, and buy one with a 2 MT shank, or go to another collet system, perhaps one of the ER collet sets, someone will advise you which is most suitable in your case, I think I may have gone that way, although I got my one cheap at a liquidation sale at around $NZ100, had to make my own draw bar, cost about zero. Ian S C

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Bill,

I wouldn't personally try modifying it. Difficult to get the accuracy of the original which is essential for correct operation. As Norman said, if it was advertised as 2MT it should have been 2MT. I suggest returning it and getting a refund. If you purchased it by mail order or online you are protected by the 'Distance Selling Regulations' and have evey right to a refund for an incorrect item, even on eBay.

Regards

Terry

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Norman, Ian, Terry many thanks.

That advice seems pretty conclusive and to be acted on! The set was an Ebay buy and the seller will accept it returning at no cost, so I think that has to be the way to go. Still a niggling background thought that it might have been do-able but the more I am involved with this metal mangling game, the more I realise my limitations.

Rgds

Bill

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