Points 5″ gauge- Drawings

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I need to think about the next part of my garden rail track and am looking at making a set of points. I have the 5″ rail standards showing clearances etc, but before I re-invent the wheel and make the drawings, does anyone have a set of plans they could let me have. This is the sort of thing I want to make but from 30 x 6mm flat steel (not rail head section).

Bob

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

30mm X 6mm flat. Will that be stiff enough?

My own club’s rails, for combined 7-1/4″ and 5″ gauge with all driving-trucks and passenger-trucks of the wider, are 25mm X 10 or 12mm.

I can’t supply plans I’m afraid but do ensure whatever design you use that it maintains stiffness right to the blade ends.

I have seen ones made from flat bar by feathering the blades down to such an extent that the tips eventually distorted too much to close properly.

It is best to cut a shallow rebate in the fixed rail to take a blade extremity that still has appreciable thickness (about 2 or 3mm); and, the blade is thinned for about 3/4 of the rail depth to leave a stiffening flange on the inside.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Thanks for that Nigel, yes it’s a lightweight track and really only being used for testing and improving my 5″ loco. My nearest “proper track” is about an hour and 40 minutes drive away. The “feathering” feature is minimised by putting a “kink” in the mateing rail such that the end of the feather can be left a little thicker – apparently!

Bob

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

A kink? “Apparently” all right!

On full-size or miniature track with a similar profile, the head and flange are cut back towards the web on both parts.

For bar-rail, the fixed rail (I think called the “stock rail”?) is rebated.

Neither uses “kinks”.

In both forms the blade is thinned but not so much it becomes a knife-edge, and not to its full depth.

.

I am still a bit worried you rails are not stiff enough. Making them 25mm high would be better even if you leave the thickness at 6mm. There is some outwards thrust on them so you need reduce the lateral bending effect.

That thickness though leaves little contact area for the wheels, and will give a very thin section in the points rebates – though you could fit a reinforcing strip to the outside.

[doughewsonParticipant @doughewson]

Hello Bob,

I drew out quite a few point drawings for 5″ gauge but whan I sold my business they all went to The Steam Workshop, ask for Liz and she should fit you up.  However, I woudn’t use steel rail, use the aluminium of the correct profile.  Much better

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Thanks for that Doug, but I have made a set now using some ideas from Colin Edmondson’s 7 1/4″ gauge drawings, some other track photos etc.

Bob

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

The rail section you suggest should be OK. It used to be standard to make track by milling 1/4″ slots in sleepers, gang milled if possible, a little shy to hammer the rail into and set the gauge easily. Now hobby welders being common they may be welded to little plates to screw to the sleepers with occasional full steel sleepers to hold the gauge.
Exeter DMES have recently made points if you are near enough to drop by for a look. I have spent literally hours standing next to them on open days to throw the lever when required and can’t think of the details now. I don’t seem to have a photo of them so will drop the Chairman a note to read this thread.

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