I approach this kind of problem by addressing the 3-Ms:
- Machine – faulty, maladjusted, calibration, bits missing etc. As these meters are cheap, maybe the laser or sensor is misaligned or dirty. Likely to be confused by a flat battery. Some way of confirming the machine is operating correctly is needed.
- Material – shiny, poor contrast, diameter too small, not round. The machine works by pulsing the laser and counting how many are reflected. RPM is calculated from the ratio pulsesReceived : pulsesSent, so anything that disturbs pulsesReceived will mess the meter up.
- Man! – He’s the biggest problem in my workshop. I fail to understand instructions, or don’t read them at all, tend to impatience, and have wobbly hands. Wobble may explain why Jason’s tachometer works and Henry’s doesn’t.
So:
- Good batteries
- Double check the instructions, and be clear how the thing is supposed to operate. Manuals are often poor.
- Make sure the machine is working correctly by aiming it at a much larger target. I suggest a black cardboard disc, end-on, about 80mm diameter. Pin or glue it to a length of dowel in the lathe. Get up close. A tachometer that can’t read reliably read a large target is faulty – send it back.
- Excessive reflections can be seen by measuring in the dark. If they appear, improve the matt-black. If the measurement improves, the problem may be poor contrast due to ambient light desensitising the sensor. TV remotes are fitted with plastic filters to reduce this. Probably unnecessary with a laser, but is anything missing?
- Calibration is tricky without a working tachometer, so good the lathe has one. Don’t expect high accuracy, but they should be in the same ball-park. Try different speeds: if the tachometer disagrees with the lathe, it’s probably faulty.
- On a smaller diameter,
- experiment in the dark, and make sure the target it’s round. A flat won’t return a clean echo.
- Eliminate wobble with a support. If a support fixes it, use one. Wobble causes much less trouble on a large diameter target than a small one because the pulsesReceived : pulsesSent ratio is less disturbed.
- Experiment to find the smallest diameter that can be read reliably. If unreasonably big, the tachometer is probably faulty
Back to, the 900rpm motor, in days of yore, motor speed was established with a stroboscope. Often just a neon lamp flashing at a black and white sectored disc . A neon powered by the mains flashes at 50Hz, so confirming 900rpm needs sectors to match:
- 900rpm = 15rps
- 15 rps is 1/3rd 50Hz, so the number of sectors needed is a factor of 3. I’d try 30.
- If the motor is spinning near 900rpm, the disc should appear stationary
Neon lamps are hard to come by today, and electronic stroboscopes are pricey, though ebay often has them secondhand. £50? Easy to make with an Arduino if you have the skills, otherwise read on.
Audio. A gear or make a stiff-ish disc about 80mm dia, 1mm thick plastic would do, or aluminium, and notch the diameter such that a playing card or similar placed on the spinning disc will vibrate. At 900 rpm, 4 notches should buzz at 60Hz, 8 at 120Hz, 16 at 240Hz, 32 at 480Hz etc. If you have a:
- musical ear, 240Hz is near a B, or the note can be compared high/low with a musical instrument.
- smart phone, download a spectrum analyser
- multimeter with frequency capability, measure directly.
- computer with microphone, download Audicity or oscilloscope
Fairly obviously, the best answer is a tachometer than works! By the by, 900rpm suggests a 60Hz motor, if so running it on 50Hz will get less, about 750rpm if my maths is right. Which it often isn’t.
Dave