cooling whilst boring

[mick70Participant @mick70]

what is best way to cool job whilst boring?

have to make 2" long collar from 40mm rd with 27mm hole bored in centre.

lot of length is in chuck as using off cut.

first time i have any proper boring only done small shallow hole before.

ta.

[mick70Participant @mick70]

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Just some general info to help…depends on methods you have available; what tool comes into play what the material is.. , Aluminium, MS, Brass', Cast iron… if your lathe has a coolant system use that with a steady flow if it's MS, or use a spray bottle / brush on… WD40 / kerosene light oil mix for Aluminium, dry for Brass / Cast iron.

If you're using insert type tip you could use it dry with the speed upped more than the normal cutting speed for material used, if using HSS for MS then it would be preferable to have some form of coolant. I'm sure that a lot of members will give other solutions / methods. Obviously let the material cool down before taking final sizing & allow a couple of spring cuts after a couple of passes before you get to finishing cut otherwise you'll get a false reading on your Mic' / Vernier / snap gauges. Hope this is of use ..

Happy boring..

George

[brickyParticipant @bricky]

I have done a lot of boring,I use an oil can with a flexible nozzle (must be flexible) .At first squirt the coolant into the

bore then as the bore gets large enough it can be inserted above the boring bar .Take note of John"s advice of the

coolant spray .

Francis

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

If you can't flood with coolant and apply it with a brush like I do, it may be best to take the starting cuts dry. This is because when the boring bar nearly fills the hole a small amount of cutting oil can make the swarf stick in the hole and clog things up. Dry swarf will just fall clear of the hole, unless it is long and stringy (the worst type is the sort that coils up and tangles around the bar )

Once the hole is large enough, you can use brush applied cutting oil.

Neil

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I started to reply to this thread. Got bored with my curser jumping all ovre the place. In fact got bored with nothing being done to correct this problem so just typing and letting the curser return on its own which Is pretty poor for queens English. Reported this as well as others, not happy bunny.

Bri 

Edited By Boiler Bri on 14/02/2015 19:39:12

[JonParticipant @jon]

Its one of the few times a chuck guard comes in handy, shielding flinging coolant when up close or in to chucks.

The only way you will keep cool is flood coolant in to the bore whether direct or via thru hole cutters. Pasting on only serves to lubricate which may or may not help.

Other way is let the job cool naturally, just check for warmth before final cut and use power feed.

Aside I think the main problem will encounter is tapering, theory don't always work. Boring bars flex even carbide and expensive Kennametal and the like. Favourite tool thru coolant are the likes of these stunners also great for undercutting – tips only **LINK** I do similar to depths of 46.4mm blind hole, reminds me have to do another for M28X1 thread.

For a one off I would opt for biggest round carbide I could hold and sharpen up. Angle tool post and cutter inwards will reduce flex and chatter. I know my Arno 20mm boring tipped bar would flex after around 1" in even doing 6082 aluminium, just beware.

[ManofkentParticipant @manofkent]

I have learned the hard way how important it is to let the item cool before trusting a measurement! Other than that a spray from a can or washing up bottle is less messy around the chuck than putting the coolant pump on

[mick70Participant @mick70]

cheers for that ended up using spray bottle as it was going everywhere using pump.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

HI Bri,

It's an iOS issue caused by an apple software change that also affects other websites that use the same editing software as us. There is a cure you can apply, but I don't have the link – I'll see if it can be found.

We will be able to solve it, but it has to be done as part of a major software update that will affect many other aspects of the website, so it isn't an overnight thing (unless we risk breaking the site completely…)

Neil

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by naughtyboy on 15/02/2015 07:55:32:

cheers for that ended up using spray bottle as it was going everywhere using pump.

I find a wash bottle is better as it gives a fine jet rather than a broad spray and you can get the coolant where you want it.

Russell.

[JonParticipant @jon]

As above spraying only serves to predominantly lubricate doing very little to carry or reduce heat build up. Flowing lube carries the heat from the job and tool if already warm, the more of it the better the heat is transferred.

The only time I will use chuck guard is for intermittent cuts when coolant close to jaws. Its set to angle down clearing largest chuck and shield flinging coolant off the jaws, coolant runs off in to pan – just. Works every time.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

One thing about lubrication, it makes the cutting more efficient, there for reducing the generation of heat.

Ian S C

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

SwiftKey alternative keyboard for iOS, free from the App Store.

Geoff – It saves grinding of teeth or kicking cat/dog/SHMBO

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