Clarke CMD10 motor problem. H E L P !

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

First of all the very helpful lamp labelled 'unnormal' came on, ( what does it do ?)……..and then nothing, no motor activity and I'm pretty sure the motor and controller are U/S. there are open circuit segments on the motor whereby if you connect it to a low voltage DC supply it stutters round as long as you spin it.

Has anyone replaced the motor , perhaps with a 3 phase and inverter ? If so what wattage motor ? Is there anywhere to get a new motor /controller at a reasonable price, I haven't asked Clarke yet but I suspect it will be astronomical.

I cannot live a normal life without this machine, I'm retired and it's always in action doing some job or other.

Cheers

Eric Thacker

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

Where to get motor and controller from in the UK.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

The cost from Clark for motor and board is almost exactly £250.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

Thanks for reply, much appreciated.

I never run the machine in reverse this happened normally.

I tried everything , pull the plug and wait and in the end I took the motor off and it's U/S.

I've had the price from Clarke and the total comes to almost exactly £250.

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

Check the brushes in the motor, but most likely the pcb is shot – ive had two do this and cant get em repaired! In the end I used a couple of bridge rectifiers and ran it on a fixed speed. My clarke lathe went the same way, replaced that with a drill motor and switch – now fixed speed also.

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

and…you cant just swap one board for another without checking what you have, there are several different ones.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

Thanks for replies. I've been on the Arc euro site and it will cost £77 +£87 which is better than Clarke.

I've identified the correct board , I took a picture and have the number, it's the one with the single mosfet.

When you fitted the drill motor what motor did you use and did you rectify the mains 240 volts or drop it down ?

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

Tee hee, works a treat.

https://app.box.com/s/plq3ungxat14pi28pb7k

Edited By Eric Thacker on 15/11/2013 16:25:29

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

The drill motor was from a pedestal drill so didnt need to add anything – loads more power and I could easily halve the speed if I could be bothered – glad you got your mill fixed, mine is sat in a sorry heap in the corner!

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Posted by Eric Thacker on 15/11/2013 16:24:20:

Tee hee, works a treat.

**LINK**

Edited By Eric Thacker on 15/11/2013 16:25:29

Great idea using a power tool…….

I've repaired numerous controllers from these little machines….agreed they are a pain, but spare boards are extortionate……from mm/clarke

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

The old Black and Decker motor ( my Dad's from the sixties ) was way too fast but using an AC power controller got it down to working revs ( what are they ? ) and it's got more power that before, its a 400 watt motor but probably halved but still 200.

At least I get the chance to have a look at the board while the miller carries on.

Thanks for all your help, much appreciated.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

I forgot to mention…… luckily the motor was going the right way ( anti-clock) and being AC had it not it was going to be a bugger if the wrong way.

Although it's a universal AC/DC motor , they don't reverse very readily.

in theory it's relatively simple to reverse the field coil/ armature windings relative to each other but in practice it doesn't work out on AC, something to do with the angle of the brushes ( I've done it ) and the motor, in reverse, goes slower and sparks like the clappers. I've not tried it on DC.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

I've finally solved it permanently……..scrounged 3 phase motor using a shared Mitsubishi inverter that also works my pedestal drill motor via a changeover switch. More powerful, set up so the E.stop button stop / starts it and I've set up the selector switch so as to provide 3 speeds although if I use the inverter control panel I can have variable speed + reverse.

That's it now, job done – at a cost of…… nothing.

See picture here………

**LINK**

Edited By Eric Thacker on 22/11/2013 18:44:33

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

looks brilliant…but those poxy nylon gears wont last long!!

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

You're right , I've been thinking about the gears.

Not a lot of options really, I'll have to wait and see.

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Posted by Eric Thacker on 23/11/2013 06:54:04:

You're right , I've been thinking about the gears.

Not a lot of options really, I'll have to wait and see.

Convert it to belt drive. See:

**LINK**

Mike

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

The engineering is absolutely excellent on both the improved gears and the belt drive solutions….. wonderful.

Now then what next ……..

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

BTW, if you blow up the first photo with the drill body motor you can see at the rear of the machine another very handy mod that I did.

It's a battery drill motor mounted vertically so as to provide a rise and fall on the whole head, the 2 gears came from RS , it's always being used, to wind it up and down with the handle was a real nuisance.

The motor was originally 9.6 volts but it's been run at nearer 30 for the last 10 years or so without problem.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

Here's a picture……..

**LINK**

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

What cutter did you use to make the gear ?

I fancy a bash at it I've never made a gear before.

I presume you have a dividing head.

[Eric ThackerParticipant @ericthacker25502]

 

Edited By Eric Thacker on 24/11/2013 09:53:53

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