An efficient slot method

[Brian Rice 1Participant @brianrice1]

Not all Chinese tooling is rubbish you will probably find that your so called branded cutters are made in China like most things these days.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Just to show that your Lux should be able to take off more metal than 0.25mm with a 12mm cutter I put a bit of scrap steel on the X3 and gave it a twirl. As I don't use a lot of metric cutters I did not have a 4 flute so use a 3 flute disposable FC-3 type cutter no brand on it but may be Hertel or a large industrial suppliers own brand no doubt from the far east costing about £10, speed probably around the 500rpm mark, depth of cut 2.5mm, looking at the time feed is about 75mm per min it was just what felt about right with the handwheel. Dab of soluable oil which is what can be seen smoking. Nice size chips not iron filings which is what you get if you scratch at it.

One of our ME suppliers should soon have a new range of cutters, good quality but also hopefully at a good price. The ones that I was sent to test worked well.

 

Edited By JasonB on 25/02/2015 20:30:27

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Thanks for the vid. I just did exactly the same thing with a new 4-flute and got the same chips.. and lots of cutting oil smoke and a very hot tool. How long would it last like that? But just like a parting tool..less vibes when its working hard.

[Robert DoddsParticipant @robertdodds43397]

pgk pgk,

With regard to your wandering drill that tries to find the previous hole when you chain drill. Have you tried drilling alternate holes first and then going back and drilling between the previously drilled pairs. With a hole either side of it the drill will be confused and not know which way to go so it keeps on going straight through. If it does break through the wall it is likely to do it equally on both sides which is not a bad thing.

Bob D

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

I don't know what your needs are but have you thought about fabricating? Bright mild steel drilled threaded and counter sink screwed through to your base top your tee with more bright drill tap and counter sink into your upright.

You may have a problem acquiring your base plate but a profiled plate surface ground may suite your needs

Just an idea.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 25/02/2015 22:16:13

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Jesse,

I had cut my slots successfully and made the parts. This was a question as to other, possibly better ways to do it. I think my limiting factor was a lack of flood coolant and courage.

Bob,

I will play with chain drilling some scrap but chain drilling 45mm isn't that quick either ( well it is if one just rams the drill through without clearing chips or applying oil )and this preliminary attempt makes me think that it'd be better to do it from both sides for that depth. I shall try your every other hole approach next time I experiment.

pgk

[Anonymous]

Posted by Brian Rice 1 on 25/02/2015 19:23:23:

Not all Chinese tooling is rubbish you will probably find that your so called branded cutters are made in China like most things these days.

Nobody said they were. However, threads regularly appear on this forum querying poor finish and chatter when milling. The underlying reason usually turns out to be a cheap milling cutter from a boxed set. Where pictures have been shown it is obvious that the cutter has been incorrectly ground.

My local toolshop stocks Garr and Guhring, and I also buy from Maritool in the US. As far as I'm aware they are all made in the US.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

Posted by pgk pgk on 25/02/2015 20:55:40:

Thanks for the vid. I just did exactly the same thing with a new 4-flute and got the same chips.. and lots of cutting oil smoke and a very hot tool. How long would it last like that? But just like a parting tool..less vibes when its working hard.

The advantage of HSS over straight carbon steels is that it retains a level of hardness at red heat. Most of the heat generated ought to be lost with the chips, as they are the item that is distorted during the cutting process. My rule of thumb is that if a HSS cutter is showing a blue colour I'm probably overdoing it. For carbide I am happy to run with the tooling showing dull red on the cutting edges.

There are two rules for buying cutting tools:

Rule 1: Never buy cheap cutting tools; they are false economy

Rule 2: See rule 1

Cutting tools are a consumable item. However, there are some factors that can prolong life. There are three basic parameters to consider. One, surface speed, related to spindle speed. Two, chip load per tooth, and three depth of cut. Working backwards depth of cut has least effect, since if you double the depth of cut you double the cutting edge length that is doing the work. Chip load has a significant effect, as high chip loads require signifcant distortion of the chip and hence high loads on the tool surface. However, too low a chip load is worse as the cutting edge will rub, cut, rub cut and so on; leading to chatter, poor finish and badgered cutting edges. Finally spindle speed also has an effect, the higher it is the greater the wear. I tend to run HSS cutters at the recommended speeds, but run carbide cutters rather slower (about half) than manufacturer recommendations,

There are other things that affect tool life; for instance re-cutting chips is a quick route to ruining a cutter.

Andrew

[JonParticipant @jon]

PGK easy on do it daily for years on Super Lux but much much longer products.

Decent carbide or roughing cutter 10mm dia and two options.

Can cut 10 dia x 50mm long down to 14.5mm deep then just sideways cut to width, quill and bed locks nipped up to stop the climb mill effect winding back with .25mm cut on. 10 passes at .25mm is 2.5mm soon adds up.

Or take cuts full width about 1mm deep down to level, your arms will drop off though.

Any bigger cutter column and head will flex but usually ok for cleaning up.

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