125 mm chuck onto my lathe

125 mm chuck onto my lathe

Home Forums General Questions 125 mm chuck onto my lathe

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 20 total)
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  • #814239
    Steve Huckins
    Participant
      @stevehuckins53362

      My SC4 lathe has a 72mm register on the flange and this allows many 100 mm chucks with that size recess to fit.

      Whilst currently making a Kennions Tina stationary engine, I realised the limit of jaws of 100 mm chucks don’t allow for holding anything round which is much over 1.75 inches. So it was difficult to machine the cylinder end caps which were a bigger diameter than this to begin with. ( I did manage it eventually ) Reverse jaws did not close enough to hold the end caps proud for machining.

      But I was wondering if anyone has been able to fit a larger chuck onto a flange that only has this 72 mm recess as for instance, 125 mm chucks have a 95 mm recess. Is there an adaptor or alternative option to mount one ?

      Advice always welcome thanks

      Steve

      #814246
      bernard towers
      Participant
        @bernardtowers37738

        Adaptor płatę?

        #814248
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          Piece of 125mm steel or iron bar. Face one side and machine to fit the 72mm spigot, drill and tap for studs.

          Mount to the spindle and face the otherside, turn larger spigot to suit a 125mm chuck, Mark position before removing to drill or tap chuck mounting hole sthen it can go back in the same position once the chuck is mounted.

           

          Should have been able to do it with reversed jaws, you may need a bit more tool stickout to get below the outer step. Or better still get some soft jaws for the existing chuck from the likes of Rotagrip

          #814260
          HOWARDT
          Participant
            @howardt

            I have an SC3, which I bought about 9 years ago and fitted a 125mm four jaw chuck to it.  Bought an adaptor plate to fit the spindle and machined it in situ to fit the chuck.  Obviously an independent four jaw requires less accuracy than a non independent chuck.

            #814280
            Graham Meek
            Participant
              @grahammeek88282

              Have you considered using Soft Jaws in you current chuck?  These are ideal for holding narrow components like cylinder covers.

              Regards

              Gray,

              #814283
              old mart
              Participant
                @oldmart

                A 100mm chuck should be capable of holding more than 1.75″ diameter, don’t you have the external jaws? If there is something fouling the jaw steps, then, as already mentioned some soft jaws would work. A 125mm chuck would probably require an adaptor plate, and by looking through ebay there are lots of barstock offcuts, some cast iron, but most mild steel that could be machined on your lathe to make the chuck adaptor for a larger chuck. You would need to first make a drawing of the spindle flange, and then attach the blank disc to the spindle, or a faceplate if you have one. Don’t worry about drilling/and or tapping holes in the plate to hold it on, there will be plenty of room to drill mounts in other parts of the plate later. We have chuck backplates with up to a dozen holes in them, plain and tapped and they work just fine. Also mentioned is a four jaw independent which is so much more versatile than a scroll chuck, just takes more time to set up to use.

                #814302
                Steve Huckins
                Participant
                  @stevehuckins53362

                  Thanks to all.

                  External jaws still didn’t work as the outer steps cannot close down to less than 2.5 inches as then they touch in the Center. The lower steps can hold the part but it means it doesn’t stick out for access to do the turning. I guess soft jaws are the first option and the second make a back plate as many have suggested.

                  Regards

                  Steve

                  #814305
                  Bazyle
                  Participant
                    @bazyle

                    This is why lathes used to be supplied with a faceplate (often rather than a chuck to keep apparent cost down) and the end caps should have been cast with a chucking spigot.

                    #814316
                    JasonB
                    Moderator
                      @jasonb

                      Steve, as I said earlier you can still turn something like a cylinder cover on the inner step of external jaws. Just needs the cutting tool positioned correctly. I’ll mock one up a bit later and take a couple of pictures.

                      Even with a chucking spigot you do eventually need to be able to turn that off

                      #814324
                      DC31k
                      Participant
                        @dc31k
                        On Steve Huckins Said:

                        External jaws still didn’t work as the outer steps cannot close down to less than 2.5 inches as then they touch in the centre.

                        So put a packer between the jaw and the workpiece, effectively increasing its diameter to something the jaws will hold without bottoming out.

                        Visualise the copper jaw protectors used on standard jaws and bulk them up a bit. Or superglue (gel, gap-filling) some pieces of key stock to the part.

                        #814331
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb
                          On Steve Huckins Said:

                          The lower steps can hold the part but it means it doesn’t stick out for access to do the turning.

                          Steve

                          A few pictures to show how something like a cylinder cover can be held and turned with the right tools or methods. I have used carbide for the photos but the same would apply if using HSS.

                          You seem to describe a problem where the tool can’t reach the work as the outer step of the jaws gets in the way. With a right hand tool as shown then they will indeed get in the way.

                          20250829_084531

                          Changing to a left hand tool will allow for both facing and turning the OD as well as any chucking spigot if provided. You may need a little more tool stickout. A more pointed tool can also work if the toolpost and therefore shank is angled to clear the outer jaw.

                          20250829_084622

                          Another form of Left Hand tool will do the facing but not the OD

                          20250829_085243

                          If you do not have a left hand tool then all is not lost with the far eastern lathes. As the chuck bolts on you can happily run the spindle in reverse and bring the tool in from the back. That way you can use a right hand tool or even a boring bar.

                          20250829_085410

                          20250829_085511

                          When it come sto machining the other side you can hold in th esame way but to make sure the thin part does not wobble use some packing behind to get the unmachined face proud of the jaws. REMOVE before switching on.

                          20250829_085635

                          This is where I like my soft jaws as the shallow recesses do the job of the packers without dropping into th eswarf tray as well as giving clear access for tools.

                          20250829_085821

                           

                          #814333
                          Chris Gunn
                          Participant
                            @chrisgunn36534

                            Soft jaws every time, when you have almost machined them down, weld some pieces onto whats left, and away you go again.

                            Chris Gunn

                            #814338
                            lukeama123
                            Participant
                              @lukeama123

                              Hello,

                              a 4-5inch adapter plate would work we do stock these if you want to take a look using link below:

                               

                              https://www.amadeal.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=adapter&PN=125mm%2DAdapter%2DPlate%2Dfor%2Dthe%2DMini%2Dlathe%2D4%2Dto%2D5%2DChuck%2DAMA_AC_AD4_5RB%2Ehtml#SID=96

                               

                              Regards

                              Luke

                              Amadeal Ltd

                              #814344
                              Nicholas Farr
                              Participant
                                @nicholasfarr14254

                                Hi Steve, you can always make one of these, which I did to face a few blanks, I used a slice of BMS that would fit in the outside jaws. Just turn the ring up with the recess in it, before cutting the slots.

                                001

                                002

                                Regards Nick.

                                #814346
                                SillyOldDuffer
                                Moderator
                                  @sillyoldduffer

                                  By coincidence I made a pillar/platform to hold my daughter’s car entertainment system.  Normally supported by a sucker gantry thingy attached to the windscreen, but her car’s curves made this impossible.  I made it with a stub-mandrel and super-glue.

                                  Superglue is strong provided the joint is made properly – smooth clean surfaces, new glue, and kept firmly pressed in place for about 15 minutes whilst the glue sets. The method is ancient and much used by clockmakers except they use Shellac rather than super-glue.  The super-glue bond is most easily broken by heat: boil in water, oven bake, or gentle blowlamp.  Most superglues fail at about 100°C, others good up to 140°C.    Clean with Acetone.  Shellac is easier to set up and dismantle than super-glue but not so strong.IMG_0431

                                  IMG_0432

                                  IMG_0433

                                  Not quite so solid, is a friction grip.  Light cuts only!  The item is forced against the mandrel or faceplate by a flat live-centre:

                                  Photo of a friction gripped saucepan to follow when my camera has recharged!

                                  Dave

                                   

                                  #814395
                                  samuel heywood
                                  Participant
                                    @samuelheywood23031

                                    As someone else mentioned, the %” to 4″ adapters are good & save you a fair bit of work making your own.

                                    Still a novice myself, within reason & size constraints, you can make any chuck fit any lathe , only on my third back plate did i feel i’d finally “nailed it”

                                    I view making a chuck plate one of those “rites of passage”

                                    However,someone on this forum posted a picture of a re machined 5″  4 jaw independant chuck to fit direct to a 4″ spindle flange.

                                    I thought this was very clever,& would like to emulate one day, maybe the poster can repost the picture?

                                    Incidently, i sometimes run a 5″ chuck on my mini lathe!!, i think on an sc4 you’ll find any expended effort or cash well worthwhile.

                                    #814399
                                    Steve Huckins
                                    Participant
                                      @stevehuckins53362

                                      Well I’ve learned so much from this question I posted and can now see many options that I hadn’t considered. Everyone is so generous with their time, knowledge and experience as ever. Thank you especially to Jason for spending your time to set up and photograph your explanations. I am now looking forward to putting all the various options into practice when the issue arises again.

                                      cheers

                                      Steve

                                      #814433
                                      Graham Meek
                                      Participant
                                        @grahammeek88282

                                        A few words of caution.

                                        The size of chuck supplied with a lathe is the one which the manufacturers have based their lathes design around. When the standard chuck is gripping within its designed range. Then the jaws usually miss things like the Carriage casting and the Cross-slide.

                                        Fitting a larger chuck will alter the original configuration. At the new maximum gripping diameter the jaws will undoubtedly hit something, unless great care is exercised at all times. Not to mention the additional weight on the bearings, both static and dynamic. Plus the overhang that the new configuration of a larger chuck brings. The body of the larger chuck usually means it is deeper front to back, so there will some loss of maximum work length that can be done with tailstock support. With any work held in the new chuck being further away from the spindle bearings, than was originally intended.

                                        There is also the fact that although the chuck can hold and pass larger diameters through the body of the chuck. The restriction of what can be passed through the spindle itself. Makes this extra capacity only suitable for short pieces of work.

                                        At the end of the day the choice is down to the individual, but having a different point of view might make the difference in making the right choice.

                                        Regards

                                        Gray,

                                         

                                         

                                        #814465
                                        JasonB
                                        Moderator
                                          @jasonb

                                          This is why the common Myford practice of fitting a “slimbody” 4-jaw should be considered on other hobby lathes. Not only are they slimmer and could well be even slimmer than the smaller OEM 4-jaw they are hollowed out at the back to keep the weight and forced down.

                                          My 160mm Bison slimbody 4-jaw is both shorter and lighter than the originally supplied 125mm 4-jaw. The added bonus is they don’t have fat jaws like a lot of the standard chucks so you can often grip say the inside of a flywheel with them as there is room for a jaw between the spokes.

                                          #814496
                                          HOWARDT
                                          Participant
                                            @howardt

                                            The four jaw i fitted was a thin type too keep the centrifugal mass down.  When mounting the part in the chuck as said make sure that the jaws clear the bed.  Also you may have to imaginative about how the tool is held in the tool post and the type of tool used.  With some tool positions you may not be able to machine the whole face in one go.

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