Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Chris

I have a CMD10 but cannot comment on the quality difference between it and the Arc Euro mill. I have a feeling the X1L has longer 'Y' travel as well as the longer table which if I was going for a machine would persuade me towards the X1L. If there are differences in engineering quality between the two I suspect the X1L would be the better one anyway.

The downside of the X1L is the tilting column. I doubt I would ever use it and I suspect I would fasten a stiffening bracket or structure of some sort to make the vertical column more rigid so its likely to stay in tram even if you have a cutter jam or whatever.

Unless you do a belt drive conversion make sure you have spare gears, one is bound to break when you are in the middle of an important job. I have seen more robust plastic gears in car windscreen wiper motors!

Ian P

[AndyPParticipant @andyp13730]

I use the Chester version of this mill with the Arc Euro long table added – best move I made. I must echo all Mike's comments, I promise I will do some of his mods, probably locking screws first.

I have done all the milling for a Rob Roy on it as well as numerous tooling projects, not broken a gear yet but then I don't try and take big cuts. I like it so much I bought it a full set of er25 collets and collet chuck for Christmas.

As with all machines, mills especially, expect to spend the same again on (absolutely essential) extras.

Andy

[Chris machinParticipant @chrismachin]

Hi All , I'm looking for advice on a budget small mill. I've looked at Clarke , Arc Euro , Proxxon , and the offerings from Amadeal.

The Proxxon MF70 Seems a little small , I can get a ex-demo Clarke CMD10 for about £260.00 inc vat but the table looks a little small on this model.

It seems to me that the Sieg Super X1L Mill which has 400mm long table looks the best bet , according to the catologue the cost is £ 321.00 inc v.a.t.

Obviously i'm aware that it depends upon the type of work / size you want to make but at the moment i'm interested in Elmers engines and would be interested in trying models such as the 'Popcorn Engine.

I'd appreciate any comments or experiences on any of the above machines or any that i've missed. Any help / advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

David

The best way is to use these :- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Wedges-Drifts

Cheers

Norman

[M0BNDParticipant @m0bnd]

Posted by Les Jones 1 on 18/03/2012 12:24:32:

Hi Chris,

Drilling very small holes with a normal size drill press is difficult as youdo not get the feel of the pressure on the drill bit due to the strength of the return spring. I made a drill stand to hold a small Minicraft drill (I do not think these are still available.) for drilling small holes in printed circuit boards. It uses part of the print head slide from an old printer to give a very smooth action with a long tension spring which only just supports the weight of the drill. Arc Euro Trade do a "Micro Drill Adaptor" (Item number 040-015-00400 for £9.99) This is basically a sliding spring loaded sleeve to take a small chuck which can be used in the lathe or pillar drill. There is a collar which you hold to apply the drilling pressure. Threre is no picture of this item on their webpage so I will try to attach pictures from the catalogue.

One of these may be the solution to your problem. You could probably make one yourself if you are in a hurry. There was a thread recently on removing broken taps. This may help you to remove the broken drill.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 18/03/2012 12:25:48

This is a good tool. We used it at a company that I work in and drilled a 0.4mm hole with it.

Andy.

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

For my 2 pennorth I would say buy an older reputable make any one of the ones Mac quotes, then trot along to Arc Eurotrade and buy a £77 precision vice (screwless type).

My first experience with an "offshore" drill press was some 20+ years ago I bought a cheap "NuTool" 5 speed drill press….what a waste of money it must have had around 1/8" of play with the quill fully extended.

I see that most of the ones you see in B&Q & Wickes etc. still use that same basic "NuTool" design (and very similar castings).

I eventually bought a 12 speed drill from Warco OK it's an import but this is very nice quality, but that was some time ago when they were based in Shere and only had a three digit phone number!

I finally got around to doing something with the NuTool drill and put a slitting saw through the casting and fitted a pinch bolt which fixed the play but while cutting the slot in it I had a good chance to see how really poor quality the castings etc. were.

Regards

Paul

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Chris,

Drilling very small holes with a normal size drill press is difficult as youdo not get the feel of the pressure on the drill bit due to the strength of the return spring. I made a drill stand to hold a small Minicraft drill (I do not think these are still available.) for drilling small holes in printed circuit boards. It uses part of the print head slide from an old printer to give a very smooth action with a long tension spring which only just supports the weight of the drill. Arc Euro Trade do a "Micro Drill Adaptor" (Item number 040-015-00400 for £9.99) This is basically a sliding spring loaded sleeve to take a small chuck which can be used in the lathe or pillar drill. There is a collar which you hold to apply the drilling pressure. Threre is no picture of this item on their webpage so I will try to attach pictures from the catalogue.

One of these may be the solution to your problem. You could probably make one yourself if you are in a hurry. There was a thread recently on removing broken taps. This may help you to remove the broken drill.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 18/03/2012 12:25:48

[Tony ScottParticipant @tonyscott71389]

Hi, my motor has just burnt out & I need to purchase a new or reconditioned one any help on where to purchase, I've phoned Arc Euro trade and they tell me it's not the same as the one in the Sieg c3!! is this correct?.

If this is in the wrong section would the mods please move.

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Hi Ray,

 

Firstly, sorry if the links go off the page, I tried to compress them without success!

 

 

I was in a similar situation before Christmas and posted this http://modeleng.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=toolsandtooling&action=display&thread=6791&page=1 which should give you food for thought. Generally, as mentioned before, the round column or tilting head machines can have the risk of unexpected twisting or rotating and can have associated alignment problems, but if you are aware of this, you can make provision for it and reduce this risk.  I had heard that Amadeal have had problems with bearings and this has been confirmed by Wolfie http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=63822&p=2, but the backup from the supplier has been good. Chester and Warco have sometimes had bad reviews for service but other users have been happy with them. In the end, I ordered a Sieg machine from Axminster (I have still 7 more weeks before it arrives!) but ArcEuro also sell them. Both suppliers have fairly good reputations but Axminster can be a bit more expensive. The Sieg machines have dovetail columns but some also tilt. In particular for your interest, the Sieg X1/2/3 are ideally suitable for CNC conversions. A lot of people have said though that, unless you are doing a lot of repetitive work, is CNC what you really need when a manual mill may be enough for now? Maybe DRO is the first luxury!

 

Good luck with the hunt, it took quite me a few months but I am happy with my (yet undelivered!) choice.

 

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 10/03/2012 14:18:52

Edited By David Haynes on 10/03/2012 14:20:16

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

As I have said before, in a reply to a similar question elsewhere on this forum, I bought an XJ12-300 mill from Amadeal some while ago. It cost £412. I reckon that I've spent at least that again on mills, vice, centring kit, collet set and last month, a three-axis DRO set from Arc Eurotrade. Nearly finished fitting it, but have yet to use it "in anger". I'm very pleased with my mill – it does exactly what I want it to do – and that's all you can ask of any machine. Who wouldn't like a Bridgeport or similar, but not everybody can accommodate such a machine in their workshop. I would say, look at all the machines in your price range – let's face it, that's the real deciding factor – and plump for one or the other. Choose the one that best suits your specific requirements. Best of luck!

John

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

Hi Ray

I bought the axminster version about 10 years ago, and found the length of the table a bit restrictive, so i bought the long table and leadscrew from Arc Euro. I dont know if they still sell these as an "add on", but they sell the same machine with the long table allready fitted (super X1L). The only problem i have had with the machine is a stripped gear,through being a bit to ambitious with a job. New gear was a few quid, and no more problems since. I now have a Chester Champion 20V,but i still use the X1L quite a lot for the smaller jobs, and would not want to part with it.

Cheers Derek

Ps Check your messages, I have sent you a pm.

Edited By magpie on 09/03/2012 22:00:49

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

we do have a great exhibition in the north at Harrogate.

Well, I would agree that we have an exhibition in Harrogate – from my point of view it wasn't that great last year.

The last show in Manchester (at the Velodrome) was not well attended by trade, clubs or visitors (well, not many visitors on the day I went anyway). I don't recall it making a second appearance.

The exhibitor list for the latest effort meant it didn't warrant a look-in for me – non of the "big name" suppliers present to allow for any sort of comparison between products. The exhibits are rarely of much interest, as I have no interest in steam powered anything, railways or hot air engines. I can appreciate the work that goes in to them, but the subject matter leaves me cold – see one shiny locomative & I've largely seen them all !

I went to Harrogate last year after 3 or 4 years of it clashing with other commitments & it was disappointing – less trade support than I recall previously & many of the exhibits seemed the same as the last vist. I think it will clash with a prior commitment this year, but can't say I will loose much sleep over that. I doubt that Arc Eurotrade will be the only trade stand downsizing this year.

The Midlands Show used to be a good day out when it was at Donnington – particularly when Myford scheduled their open days to coincide. Arrive at Myfords for when they opened, then move on to DP with pre-paid tickets & in there for not much after opening time. Good look round, hammer the credit card & home before 4 ! No Myfords & Leamington Spa further than I want to go for a day out – particularly as my wife will no longer accompany me to such events having tired of being barged out of the way by ignorant old men – has meant no visit there since it moved.

Sandown Park to expensive to visit – period, I'm afraid.

£0.02

Nigel B.

[Ralph KochParticipant @ralphkoch79118]

I am trying to retrofit a small cnc router for wood and soft materials and are not quite shure about wich driver to choose. Gecko G201x drivers have a fixed 10 microstep wich they claim to be the right one because of tolerances in the stepper motor, they have support and documentation. Arc Eurotrade have another type 4,2A with 128 microsteps an with no support and sparce documentation. It seems to be the same models available on Ebay all made in china.

My stepper motors have a rated current of 2,8A.

Does the microstep resolution on 10 or 128 give any benefit or is anything over 8 or 10 not usable with steppermotors.

Is there a difference in stability between these two types.

Do anyone have experience with any of theese or any other suggestions.

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

I got mine from Arc Euro.

Neil

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi KWIL,

I will try again. I am using FF 10.0.2 with Win 7 64 bit SP

TEST

It was my mistake. I thought I needed to select "Link to anchor in text" Without selecting that I think it will work.

Yes it now works. Thanks.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 27/02/2012 20:06:58

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

link

 

Les, This was a test with FF, works OK

 

Edited By KWIL on 27/02/2012 19:09:06

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi David and Sid,

I've found that I could not do this from FF. It just linked back to the ME site. I am using IE9 for this test. Lets see if this works

TEST

It should go to Arc Euro's website. It took me back to the ME website.

I just edited the link and re inserted the URL. The link just contained the hash character. That now seems to work.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 27/02/2012 18:26:15

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 27/02/2012 18:27:07

[Gordon Henderson 2Participant @gordonhenderson2]

Hello guys,

This is my first post as I have just joined, so hello everyone!

I am looking at buying a small lathe and have four contenders which interest me, and I would appreciate some advice as to which represents the best deal for me, given that price is one of my primary concerns .

My choice is between the following;

The CJ18 from Amadeal @ £420 plus £45 carriage.

The new Warco mini lathe @ £499, carriage included.

The Sieg Super C3 from Arc Eurotrade @ £561 plus £25 carriage.

The Sieg C2 from Axminster @t £635.

I already own a Sieg C0 which I bought for model making, (not engineering) so I am not a total novice to metal turning, but I want something a bit bigger to allow me to develop my metalworking skills.

If anyone could give me guidance on the most suitable of the above, I would be most grateful.

Thanks in advance,

Gordon

[Chris machinParticipant @chrismachin]

Hi , Just a message to say thanks to everyone who contributed on here and especially to Ketan from Arc Euro Trade who called me personally. I have now solved the problem with all the help.

After trying all the different cutting tools i decided to strip the headstock and found some play in the front ball race bearing , the rear one seemed ok. I purchased a set of new taper bearings from Arc and fitted these.

As has been already mentioned the difference is amazing , the lathe runs far quieter , no vibration and the finish using the tipped tools is now superb on the brass or steel.

Would definitley reccomend the upgrade.

Thanks again everyone

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

I have one of these vices from Arc Euro Trade. The large one. It is an excellent vice, very solid, very easy to use. It has the added advantage that the jaw is on a tenon so you can stick a component in one side of the vice and the jaw will not twist.

I don't have trouble moving the jaw along by undoing the locking Allen screw. On the odd occasion when the clamping nut has come undone, it was easy to refit withour moving the vice.

regards David

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Sid Herbage on 22/02/2012 18:21:51:

Posted by Douglas Johnston on 22/02/2012 09:43:01:

I like the look of the Arc Euro vice mentioned above but wonder how it is fixed to the milling table.

There are usually slots on the sides and maybe ends that will take the end of a thin clamp.

I just clamp mine with regular milling clamps on the body.

What I do find though is that the moving jaw is difficult to move to a new position when the vice is clamped and I can't access the rack underneath. The T-Bar is difficult to disengage from the rack when doing it blind, and then tends to jam.

Is this typical of this style of vice or is it just mine?

Edited By Sid Herbage on 22/02/2012 18:24:05

Sid

I have one of the small ArcEuro vices and its so fiddly to use it still in the box! I would have no problem clamping it down if I wanted to but every time I think it will be perfect to grip some particular part I find another way of doing it.

Ian

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Posted by Douglas Johnston on 22/02/2012 09:43:01:

I like the look of the Arc Euro vice mentioned above but wonder how it is fixed to the milling table.

 

 

There are usually slots on the sides and maybe ends that will take the end of a thin clamp.

I just clamp mine with regular milling clamps on the body.

What I do find though is that the moving jaw is difficult to move to a new position when the vice is clamped and I can't access the rack underneath. The T-Bar is difficult to disengage from the rack when doing it blind, and then tends to jam.

Is this typical of this style of vice or is it just mine?

Edited By Sid Herbage on 22/02/2012 18:24:05

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

I like the look of the Arc Euro vice mentioned above but wonder how it is fixed to the milling table.

Doug

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Neil,

How about the 50 mm precision tool vice from Arc Eurotrade.

Arc eurotrade vice

(I did this using Win 7 64 bit and firefox 10.0.2 so it looks like some of the problems with the new editor have been fixed.)

Les

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 21/02/2012 22:10:15

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

The usual culprits – Chronos, RDG, Arc-Euro (?) have a Myford chuck adaptor for rotary tables that have an MT2 centre. Possibly you could modify one of those. It has the hard part done with the nose and thread.