I've always rather lusted after a Huron milling machine… oh for a bigger shed…

But anyway, could you maybe be clearer what the adaptor is for? To adapt the head to another mill maybe?

I'm guessing the head is one of the two recently ended on Ebay?

I suspect that this adapter will be an ISO40 taper with some form of drive dog on the front, the form of which will mate with a mirror image version mounted on the head input shaft. i.e. a disc with a slot across the face with taper on the back, which mates with a tenon on the input shaft. Or a female spline in the taper shank that mates with a short splined input shaft on the head.

I should not be too difficult to measure up the input arrangement to the head to reverse engineer a suitable adapter to fit. As has been stated above, the ISO 40 dimensions are readily available, as are "tool blanks" like this example **LINK**

HTH

Nigel B

As far as I know the ISO number identifies the taper ie 30/40/50/60 and Din 2080 identifies the method of holding in the machine spindle. For instance a BT 40 is the same taper as ISO /SK 40 and they are both the same taper as ISO 40 / DIN 2080. the difference is only in how they are held.

The ISO 30 40 et al is suited to auto toolchangers [ hence the grove in the flange ] Whilst those made to ISO / Din 2080 have solid flanges ie no groove. . They are all 7.24 tapers whether BTMas /SK or 2080.

They are all the same taper angle and the 30/40/50 etc denotes the size, 30 being the smallest. The difference between INT40 / ISO40 (ie DIN2080) and BT, SK etc is that the DIN2080 has a short parallel sided extension at the small end, rather like the American NMTB. Consequently the drawbar required for the DIN2080 and NMTB is shorter than for the others.

The NMTB40 / NT40 is an imperial version, often with 1/2" UNC thread.

ISO40 / INT40 / BT40 etc generally seem to be M16 thread. With a longer drawbar you should be able to use BT40 tooling instead of INT40 (BT40 is easier to find).

Given that you can buy decent quality toolholders for £20 a pop and generally you want as many as you can get your hands on, why not save your efforts for something else? Why would you want just one holder?

Murray

PS: when Steve talks about an "adaptor", I suspect he is simply talking about an ISO40 toolholder. As I said, they are freely available and ideally he'd be trying to find a bucket load of them.

Edited By Muzzer on 23/12/2016 17:53:54

"Adapter" here means "drive shaft". The Huron NU4 appears to be a horizontal mill – the "adapter" changes the horizontal 40 taper into a short splined drive shaft that engages with the input gear to the right angle attachment. If Ketan could take another picture of the mounting face of his right angle head (to the right of the spindle nose on the bottom picture posted above), then the female spline on the input shaft should be visible.

The Lagun double angle heads we used to fit to Butler Elgamills at the last place I worked were a little less sophisticated – the input shaft to the head was a disc with a slot across that was then same width & depth as the horizontal spindle drive dogs. No "adapter" required here, just care making the plate to hold the head onto the end of the ram the correct thickness so the drive disc in the head just cleared the horizontal spindle front face.

Nigel B.

Thanks for the clarification Nigel and Steve. I get the application now, although I know that your original question still needs a resolution.

Ketan at ARC.

Apologies for the scabby sketch below (hopefully – this forum software is a pain !), but I hope this will show why I don't think a standard tool will be easy to modify. Top section shows how a standard flanged tool fits & bottom section shows how I think the splined shaft adapter fits the spindle

The splined drive shaft (adapter) shown in the Ebay link has two driving tabs, not a drive flange with two drive dog cutouts like a standard tool. The picture of the input spline at the back of the right angle head shows very little clearance between the back of the head casting for the spindle nose. I think that the splined drive shaft is fitted to the spindle with the drive dogs removed, so that the drive tabs are below the spindle front face. On a standard tool the existing drive flange & some of the taper will have to be removed to allow an additional part (preferably part of the splined piece) to have the tabs machined on such that the tabs fit below the spindle nose front face. Standard tools (including blank arbours) have the taper shank & drive flange hardened, so removing them will not be easy. Probably better to try to make the "adapter" as one piece as shown in the listing. To find the taper diameter at the drive base of the drive dog slot, remove the dogs, put some layout blue (or indelible marker pen) on a cleaned tool shank, insert the tool in the spindle & scribe the tool shank from teh bottom of the slots, then measure the diameter on the taper across the scribed lines. For what it is doing, I don't think you need a "full" taper, so the middle portion could be relieved to give a two tapered bands (one at each end) to locate in the spindle taper.

HTH

Nigel B