I was very impressed by Huub’s demonstration of thread-milling
Me to, I just wanted this for milling threads on wood. I didn’t expect it to work at aluminum and steel but since the cutter only was 30 cents, I gave it a try. I was also surprised that the Dremel milled the tread in steel pretty decent.
For chamfering I use 3 flute carbide (CNC router) or HSS 5% cobalt (manual mill) bits. They do a decent job.
For engraving I tried some self ground 1 flute HSS bits but the cheap Chinese 1 flute carbide bits do a better job. Even in steel they last pretty long.
For PCB isolation routing milling I use 20° 1 flute, 0.1 mm tip, cheap Chinese carbide bits. The perform excellent and last very long. The trace they cut is actual 0.2 mm but that is even better.
You need a minimum cutting dept (per tooth = chip load) otherwise the tool starts rubbing, gets hot and dulls pretty fast. At the recommended speed, small bits require a high RPM. A 3 flute bit needs triple the feed rate to maintain the same chip load. It also generates triple the cutting forces. If the machine can’t handle the feed rate or cutting forces, reducing the flutes is a way to solve/reduce these problems.
Single flute cutters are better in evacuation of chips. When milling soft materials like wood or plastic, I increase the chip load and reduce the speed (RPM) to prevent heating up the chips/stock (plastics melts, wood burns). Then I use a single flute cutter for better chip evacuation.
On my more rigid manual mill, in general I use 2 and 4 flute bits. On my not so rigid CNC router, I use most of the time 2 flute bits to reduce the cutting forces.