Is this a good tilting vice?

Is this a good tilting vice?

Home Forums Beginners questions Is this a good tilting vice?

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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  • #75277
    John Coates
    Participant
      @johncoates48577
      In need of a tilting vice to allow me to mill V grooves to make various tools from MEW issues as I want to stop using the tilt facility on my mill so I can keep it true
       
      Anyway have found this on ebay and wonder if experienced members on here would consider it a good value item to buy:
       
       
      I already have a Vertex K4 mill for horizontal rotating angles
       
      Thanks for any help
       
      John
      #5667
      John Coates
      Participant
        @johncoates48577

        RDG Tools item on ebay

        #75278
        David Clark 13
        Participant
          @davidclark13
          Hi There
          23 people have bought one.
          It looks OK although the thread on the screw looks a little fine and might need replacing eventually.
          Should do the job for occasional use.
          regards David
           
          #75279
          Richard Parsons
          Participant
            @richardparsons61721
            Looks a bit ‘Thin’ and short on metal to me. It will do for light work but I would not like to ask it any real questions.
            Rdgs
            Dick
            #75283
            Martin W
            Participant
              @martinw
              John
               
              I think the price says it all . The scale appears to be stuck on and the pointer is a piece of bent thin metal riveted on to the base. It really depends on the accuracy & repeatability of the work you are going to use it for.
               
              Some time ago I bought a bargain mill/drill vice, not from RDG, at what appeared to be a bargain price and it now is used as a doorstop or footrest. It was replaced with a Soba swivel vice at about twice the price and infinitely better engineered.
               
              So really it’s down to ‘what you get is what you pay for’. It is probably fit for a drill press but I would query whether it’s suitable for accurate milling operations.
               
              All the best
               
               
              Martin
              #75284
              John Coates
              Participant
                @johncoates48577
                Can anyone suggest a better tilting vice please? As mentioned before I already have a Vertex K4 so I can do angles in the horizontal plane.
                 
                A good example of what I want a tilting vice for is to be able to machine the V’s in a Keats Angle Plate I bought at Harrogate back in May. The castings have sat on the bench whilst I pondered how to machine these and so concluded that a tilting vice would be the most efficient solution.
                 
                John
                 
                #75285
                Gray62
                Participant
                  @gray62
                  I have a very similar tilting vice to that one, and to be honest, it lacks the rigidity needed for anything but light milling. I reserve this for the odd job on the drill press that needs a tilting vice.
                  I would look at a Soba or Vertex for a tilting mill vice.
                  An alternative, depending on the headroom you have on the mill, would be a tilting angle plate that you ould then bolt your existing vice to. I use this setup for the odd occasion when a compound angle needs to be machined.
                  #75286
                  Harold Hall 1
                  Participant
                    @haroldhall1

                    I cannot see John how a tilting vice
                    could be used satisfactorily to machine a Keats angle plate, even
                    using a robust vice.

                    See my website
                     
                     
                    and subsequent pages.

                    Incidentally, the site now runs to
                    almost 350 pages and includes 50 workshop projects and 20 workshop
                    processes, with many more to follow over the next few months. These
                    will be most of the articles I have provided in ME and MEW.

                    Harold

                    Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 16:37:18

                    Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 17:06:31

                    #75291
                    John Coates
                    Participant
                      @johncoates48577
                      Posted by Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 16:34:06:

                      I cannot see John how a tilting vice
                      could be used satisfactorily to machine a Keats angle plate, even
                      using a robust vice.

                      See my website
                       

                      Actually Harold I dug out MEW 161 and read your article. I just need to make a lot of clamps to be able to do it your way, and buy a protractor!

                      Good news is I do have two angle plates
                       
                      PS. I do actually find that once I’ve got things properly aligned, the act of tightening up clamps causes them to go out of alignment. Any fixes for this?  

                      Edited By John Coates on 22/09/2011 18:19:23

                      #75517
                      Harold Hall 1
                      Participant
                        @haroldhall1

                        Sorry John for having been slow in
                        replying to your question.

                        This is a very difficult question to
                        answer as there are so many variables so can only give a few pointers
                        and will start with castings.

                        Do remove all the high spots on the
                        face to be placed on the faceplate, machine table or angle plate.

                        Even with that done the face will be
                        far from perfect so place a piece of thin hard card between the
                        workpiece and mounting surface. Sheet copper is often mentioned but
                        is expensive and card is freely available. This will increase the
                        contact between the surfaces.

                        However, contact will still not be
                        perfect so do make sure, if possible, that the end of the clamps
                        being used are well in from the workpiece’s edge which does in some
                        cases fall away. Say at least 10mm. I think this is possibly one of
                        the more likely causes of the problem

                        The packing end must be higher than the
                        workpiece, but only just, say plus 1mm. Much more, especially with a
                        short clamp, and the clamp stud will have to approach at an angle so
                        that the nut/washer sit cleanly on the clamp surface.

                        If you are using clamps with jacking
                        screws, as I mostly do, above say 40mm workpiece thickness, add and
                        tighten a nut against the clamp to make the assembly more ridged. If
                        the clamps have a clearance hole, add a nut below and above for the
                        same reason.

                        With multiple clamps, gradually tighten
                        each one in turn.

                        In particularly difficult situations,
                        if possible, add supports around the base of the workpiece.

                        Avoid using multiple pieces of steel,
                        etc. to make up the packing height. If you have to do this make sure it is
                        stable. Don’t do this on the faceplate!

                        Try, wherever possible, to have the
                        angle plate horizontal in the bench vice whilst mounting the
                        workpiece, then moving it to the machine.

                        If securing a more regular item, rather
                        than a casting, you should not need the card packing, otherwise the
                        other comments all have some relevance.

                        I would like to think that I have
                        solved your problem, but I am not confident, however, the above
                        should provide a starting point.

                        Harold

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