Rob I don’t think you can adjust the ejection point, I think it is fixed by the end of the barrel thread. Only way that springs to mind is to shorten the tang on whatever tool you are using.

I remember having this problem with my Clarke lathe. In my case it was solved by changing the length of the screw – I had to make a longer one. I recall the end of the screw pushed on the inner end of whatever was in the barrel, in my case a morse sleeve.

It will vary according to the length of the fitting in the Tailstock.

Arbors or drills with "normal" tangs eject earlier than dead centres with blank ends, but no tangs.

For arbors with drawbar tappings, I screw in either a screw in tang, or a short piece of threaded rod.

Fortunately, the exact position causes no problems on my machine, because the Handwheel is graduated, but with a graduated barrel I can understand the concern under some circumstances.

If it is vital, could you not fit a DRO to the Tailstock? It would need a collar clamped to the barrel for the "stem" of the DRO, and tappings for the read head of the DRO. But it would allow the reading to be zeroed at almost any point if a more accurate measurement of depth is needed.

Howard

For my mini lathe, I get maximum travel by cutting the tang off the morse tapers used in the tailstock. I have also made an adjustable scale to read tailstock travel.

Belatedly, I came across the spacer piece I made to eject short MT parts on my Bantam. It slides across the slot, then the smaller section is offered against the offending item, and the normal ejection made with the handwheel. Make it a close fit, very similar to photo. While anything that fills the gap might assist ejection, it may get wedged and be very difficult to recover, particularly if ejection fails.

It was made from an offcut, and turned between centres.