Paint stripper does not do what it says on the tin

[GreensandsParticipant @greensands]

I am trying to recover some straight and potentially useful lengths of ¼” diameter mild steel rod salvaged from an unwanted wine rack but the bad news is that the black coating does not respond to my current tin of Nitromors paint stripper.  Given the cost of steel these days, this is very frustrating and I am sure that Nitromors I bought in the good day before ‘elf’ and his mate came on the scene I would  not have this problem. A part from using abrasive means or perhaps a scraper, are there any other possible ideas out there?

I should perhaps add that the tin of Nitromors although some 8 years old now is perfectly fluid and brushable and to be honest has been effective in the past when applied to some DIY aerosol painted parts

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Blowlamp aka blowtorch

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Sure it’s paint not a powder coating?

[GreensandsParticipant @greensands]

The thought had occurred to me and no, I am not sure if it is a paint coating. If it is a powder coating, then what might the answer be?

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

That’s the problem – you might try heating and scraping, blasting or abrading, some ‘mechanical’ means as opposed to ‘chemical’.

The trouble with powder coating is that there are only two kinds, the kind that falls off itself after a few months (used for expensive automotive accessories or similar visually sensitive goods), or the kind that is stuck on there forever (reserved for ‘throwaway’ consumer durables) 😁

[GreensandsParticipant @greensands]

Problem now resolved.  What turned out to be I’m sure a powder coating did in deed come off with mild heating and scraping. Many thanks to all who replied. I now have some very useful lengths of mild steel bar for future use.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Are you SURE its 1/4″ and not 6mm ? Noel.

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Paint removal can result in metal shrinkflation :O)

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

In reply to Mr Halfords comment, Hot rolled it will only contract as it cools, The biggest dimensional change is that of shrinkage that takes place as the metal changes state, from liquid to solid – I doubt that that much heat was used ? Noel.

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

And there was me assuming you were making a light hearted comment on whether Greensands had measured before stripping the coating.

I now understand you just assumed he may have measured it wrong.

[GreensandsParticipant @greensands]

Sure enough, when the coating had been removed, the rod did mike up to 6mm diameter. In fact, the whole process of removial was quite simple,  all that was required being a single longitudinal cut with a Stanley knife and then peeling back the plastic layer. Oh well, put it down to experience!

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Nitro mors and most paint strippers sold now are absolute junk, some law was brought in banning the sale of proper stripper for public use, you’ll need a auto body paint shop to get stripper that actually works these days.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

If you can’t trust the children not to throw it at each other, then you need to keep it out of their reach..

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Another option (though not for this application) is caustic soda based glass fibre paint stripper. It doesn’t have the volatiles that got real Nitro mors emasculated so may still be available. Turns paint to liquid, just don’t spill it on yourself.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Nitromors was still available a couple of years ago from Classic Finishes in Norwich, they had a big barrel and decanted it!!!!!

[Pete.]

On Pete. Said:

Nitro mors and most paint strippers sold now are absolute junk, some law was brought in banning the sale of proper stripper for public use, you’ll need a auto body paint shop to get stripper that actually works these days.

As Pete says, most paint strippers used to contain the methylene chloride which is known to be quite nasty to us humans along with most living things, even with small exposure it apparently migrates to your liver and causes all sorts of nasties, liver cancer, lung cancer etc..

You can still buy stripper that contains methylene chloride for ‘professional use’ from several places.

Steyer Paints is 1 supplier in the UK that will sell it in various quantities but proper PPE is seriously recommended – proper vapour mask and lots of ventilation etc. I don’t think it is as aggressive as it used to be but it does work. I bought some recently to remove some stubborn red primer of chinese origin where they still use products that are frowned upon in the west that nothing else would touch.

[Blue HeelerParticipant @blueheeler]

I always wrap the article up coated in paint stripper in a plastic garbage bag for an hour or two. Stops the stripper from drying out and makes it work much better.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Are some modern paints immune to normal paint-strippers anyway?

Unless the modern forms differ, car brake-fluid will dissolve some paints including cellulose, as some victims of vandalism can attest. It is unlikely to attack plastic coating though.

Caustic soda will remove some paints and is used in, for example, furniture-restoring; though again probably not power-coating.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Paint stripper used to contain methylene chloride which is now among the restricted substances affecting the ozone layer. There is no substitute which has the power. If you are careful, a caustic soda bath( lye over the pond, NaOH), but it is very dangerous stuff and needs research into using it.

[Kevan ShawParticipant @kevanshaw32462]

I find standard thinners to be quite effective removing paint. Buy it from car refinishing places.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

As the name “Nitromors”, hints, the original stripper did not contain the weedy Methylene Chloride you chaps worship!  It contained Nitro-methane, a low vapour pressure, narcotic, toxic, carcinogenic high-explosive.   If it catches fire, a special foam extinguisher is needed to put it out.   Nasty stuff, responsible for many fatal accidents, and popular with poisoners and terrorists.   But an excellent paint-stripper!

Although Methylene Chloride is friendly compared with Nitromethane, it’s still nasty.  Helps that it’s four times less toxic than Nitro-methane but “very dangerous to the eyes” and a strong narcotic.  Heated strongly it emits Phosgene, an extremely poisonous war gas, and pain strippers often use blowlamps.   Methylene Chloride used as per instructions is pretty safe, but the high amateur user accident rate has always cause for concern.

Should the state control stuff?  Unfortunately, yes, in my opinion.  Though I’m not against consumers having dangerous chemicals provided they take full responsibility for accident costs, it’s hard to apply in practice.

Paint stripping is an ongoing battle between chemists.  One lot strive to design safe paints that last forever.  The other team searches desperately for safe affordable paint removers that have no nefarious applications.  So far, neither has been entirely successful!

🙂

Dave

[ryan.carter848Participant @ryan-carter848]

+1 for a 15-20% (strong) caustic soda solution, you can mix it with wallpaper paste and then wrap whatever you’re stripping in cling film. No idea if it works for all paints, has worked every time I’ve used it.

Do NOT get it on your skin, eyes or anything attached to you – ask me how I know. It’s seriously nasty stuff at high concentrations, absolute FULL PPE required. If you are as stupid as me to mix it with wallpaper paste it will then stick to your skin whilst you panic.

[colin branniganParticipant @colinbrannigan54160]

I use Starchem Synstryp available on line at around £50 for 5 litres, it works for me on old vehicle paint

Colin

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