Making a Lathe Bench for a Myford ML10

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hello All,

I wish to site a Myford ML10 lathe in my small shed/workshop. It will have to share the space with some woodworking and tool/timber storage etc. It arrives on Sunday

The lathe has a Myford drip tray of the standard type and riser blocks.

I’ll be constructing a timber bench to pop the standard type of Myford drip tray, riser blocks and lathe onto – as it doesn’t currently have a stand (and I wish to use materials I have to hand).

I have in mind that I’ll need to make the set-up stiff, to resist vibration and to incorporate some adjustability, to remove twist etc during initial set-up. There was a suggestion online that the riser blocks on the ML10 weren’t adjustable, effectively spacers for lathe height only? (I’ve ordered adjustable feet, for my as-yet-not-started bench, but could send them back if need be).

I’m hoping that you may have some suggestions to help me and other new ML10 owners get the most from the lathe: ML10 specific experience; coping with confines of a small shed and/or design details for the bench I’ll be building. Thank you in advance.

Starjump.

 

 

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Make the height so that cross slide handle is level with your navel, myford stand height gave me backache until I stood if on 6″ square timbers

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Great! Thank you Duncan.

 

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

There have been quite a few topics on here about lathe benches if you can find them but the thread title may not always be straightforward.

Is the shed floor concrete or a suspended wood floor? if the latter consider working out where the bench feet are going to be and cutting holes then getting some kind of foundation down there.
Insulation and draughtproofing are worth doing before the shed gets full.
You need good torsional stiffness in the bench more than being overconcerned with the weight. Kitchen cabinet style flat sheets (but ply not chipboard) are better as ‘legs’ than traditional 4×2 legs, and a sheet along the back.
You can level (actually untwist) the lathe by adjusting only one of the 4 mounting points, sensibly raising the front tailstock one as most accessible one with shims from drinks can material. If that foot needs to be lowered offset things by putting a few shims under the adjacent rear foot first.

You mentioned vibration for which mass is good. If you have lots of odd wood scraps you could always make the top quite thick.

I don’t like chipboard as a benchtop even if laminate kitchen top as if liquid gets in it swells or sags.

[DellParticipant @dell]

My Myford 10 has it’s own cabinet so can’t help with the bench construction but space shortage is something I am used to, make sure you make plenty of storage space under the bench & add a splash back so if you have QCTP you can store the holders on it for easy reach, I have Rocketronics on my Myford so don’t need to change gears but you need enough space to be able to see & change them.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The bench needs to be rigid. Consider panelling the back and ends, to increase torsional stiffness.

A shelf can be used to store tools, chucks, faceplate etc, and will add to rigidity.

The lathe needs to be “leveled” to take any twist out of the bed, so the feet will need to be adjusted / shimmed. Adjusting the bench feet won’t be much good, but it should not wobble on the floor.

My preference is for riser blocks, since a screw adjuster is more precise than shimming.

As already said, ensure that the shop is insulated, but has a small amount of ventilation to minimise the risk of rust (And who wants to work in a cold workshop!)

The ventilation only needs to be a small hole (suitably guarded against ingress by spiders and bugs), say 1″ diameter, at floor level, to let out moist air.

Security

A good solid bolt on the door, using coach bolts with the domed heads on the outside, and a good hardened padlock.

You can make hinge bolts by turning the heads off a couple of woodscrews. Use a drill chuck to screw them into the back of the door. Trying to close the door will mark the frame where the holes need to be drilled for the hinge bolts to enter.

In this way, the bolt and padlock will secure one end of the door, and the hinge bolts will prevent the door being lifted out even if the hinge pins have been driven out.

HTH

Howard

[Brian Baker 2Participant @brianbaker2]

Greetings, I have had 4 myfords over nearly 50 years on the same stand which came with the first one, and it is made from Dexion, well braced with corner struts and a mid hight shelf.   It has a shallow tray covering the top and bracers directly under the lathe legs.

It is rigid, and I have never had a problem with it.

Regards

Brian B

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Might be a bit in here that helps – Journeyman’s Workshop – Benches & Worktops (scroll down a bit)

Been in use for an awful lot of years now.

John

[JAParticipant @ja]

 

JA

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

@bazyle Thank you for taking the time to reply, I built my shed years ago on a concrete slab with dwarf walls 3 or 4 bricks high to keep the 2×4 structure off the ground which has some insulation and a membrane and some cladding. It has a good roof.

A weak spot are a couple of interior grade doors I pressed into service that are held together with flaking paint!

The floor is ply on a wooden frame with foil insulation and some interlocking floor tiles than pucker up as they expand in the sun! But a reasonable floor none the less.

I take your interest in the floor seriously: you have an engineering mindset to consider the substrate as part of the bench. I’m going to give it more thought to that than I have already. The higher point loading of an adjustable foot on the floor spreads the load less than a trestle type base would. I have an old woodworking bench which I screwed blocks around the legs to the ply floor to to prevent skidding rather than to hold it down. It has survived and the floor hasn’t shown itself to be a shortcoming.

I would like to know whether the ML10 riser blocks have adjustment built in or whether shimming is the preferred option.

I think a trestle type leg rather than the smaller footprint of a post type leg will spread the loads best and I can try to get some rigidity from attachment to the walls too. Making a rigid bench with good solid top and then shimming or adjusting the lathe at the lathe attachment points is the way forward. Thank you.

Starjump.

 

 

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hi @dell thank you for your message and the photo! You have a really lovely set-up.

I’ll try to learn from you and others. Today I have must continue clearing a space, I’ll posts some photos in a day or two to show what I have to work with and if there has been any progress.

Thanks, Starjump.

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hello @howardlewis46836 Thank you. Good call on security and bench design. I’m off out to clear a space and I’ll be thinking of those points, thanks, Starjump

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hi @brianbaker2 Thank you! 50 years and 4 Myford lathes – wow!

Actually I hadn’t thought of factoring in a change of lathe. As the space is so diminutive I won’t on this occasion but discussion does bring up interesting thoughts.

I remember at college they discussed ladder chassis design on trucks and how small triangular plates or “gussets” added hugely to the strength of the chassis, I can see how corner struts would add such triangulation to a dexion bench.  Thanks again, Starjump.

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

@journeyman Hello John, thank you so much and your website is an amazing resource. I will refer back to it many times. Great bench too. Best, Starjump

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

@ja Thank you for your picture – what a neat installation! Best, Starjump

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

Imo starjump, screw adjustable is always going to be much more convenient, easier and quicker than multiple tries at the correct stack of shims.

Using my own past experience, adequate well protected tool and accessory storage was highly underrated by myself for too long. There’s no such thing as having too much.

[JAParticipant @ja]

Using a wall instead of legs can give problem with poor support. I got away with it with my main work bench over 30 years ago but I would not do it again.

What most do not consider is access to the back of the lathe. If you have room placing the lathe at 45 degrees to a wall instead of against it makes sense. Lighting of the lathe must be considered. Modern small LED strip lights are ideal. It is very tempting to store tooling behind the lathe as I did with my big lathe. When you get to 80 this is not very sensible.

JA

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hi Pete, Thank you, it’s good to hear and learn from your experience.

I’m still tidying up and making space and thinking about design – your input is appreciated

I’ve too much in the shed! But I will be striving for a storage solution. Best, Starjump.

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hello JA, Thanks I wasn’t going to dispense with legs merely build it strong then push it up to the wall and affix some bracketry between wall and bench to add rigidity. It may not happen but thank you for considering my thought.

I’m unable to place at 45 degrees, but it is going against the closed door which does open and so access will be available to the rear of the machine when the weather is dry. In the future my plan is a big porch that will keep the weather away from the doors.

Lighting and Storage are important consideration thank you again, Starjump

 

[egaParticipant @ega]

It sounds as though the humidity levels in your shed will vary somewhat so, depending on its design, a wooden bench needs to be protected by a suitable finish and the lathe’s alignment checked from time to time.

Alignment has been well canvassed on the site and there is a helpful chapter in WPS 15, Tubal Cain’s “Workholding in the Lathe”.

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

As much as I’d love to have a shop full of fine custom built hardwood benches. For under a lathe I wouldn’t willingly use any wood. Unfortunately solid wood is going to move and no amount of any available finish is going to stop that. My own shops wooden floor construction is in constant movement even with my steel benches. But a ML10 is a fairly short lathe, so the inherent issues with wood movement may not be too bad. If I was going to build my own wooden benches, I might offer a few thoughts. I’d want my drawers to be no more than about 2″-3″ / 50-75 mm deep, and maybe a couple at the bottom deep enough for lathe chucks or any bulkier items. After pricing out the materials and hardware to build my own wooden benches, I bought a couple of mechanics steel roll away tool boxes and use those under my lathe with the wheels removed. I’d still do the same today.

Drawer or even shelf construction design with wood becomes fairly important because of all the weight that adds up quicker than one might think. Fwiw and for my own bench tops, I laminated two layers of 3/4″ / 19 mm thick MDF together and then semi oil and waterproofed the top with the usual kitchen countertop laminate. It’s not of course all that heat or heavy abrasion resistant, and there’s certainly better but far more expensive materials. From my experience mine has been quite durable if I’m somewhat careful and easy to keep clean. And I’ve found it doesn’t move around due to changes in humidity or temperature enough to be noticeable. It still needs to be well supported by the actual bench design though.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Forgot to say that Ian Bradley’s “The Amateur’s Workshop” advises clamping down at the Headstock end and then adjusting under the tailstock.

The advice is then which side to raise or lower, depending on which end of the test bar is larger.

This using the method suggested by Myford, (Also in his “Myford Series 7 Manual”), sometimes known as “Rollie’s Dad’s Method”

The same advice will apply if you use am Alignment bar, a DTI and a mgnetic base.

Howard

 

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

@ega Hello and thank you. Yes I’ll consider humidity in fact I bought some car dehumidifier bags today – one for my van especially, as it is being driven once a week by helpful friends. I know they are doing me a favour so I want to make the experience of driving my old van to be tolerable!

I was thinking in addition to humidity considerations in the design and build of a bench I’d invest in a cover, others on the forum mentioned this, like bike/motorbike covers, and bung a bag or two of these dehumidifier bags in under the cover. They are re-usable by putting in the microwave when the coloured dot changes from blue to pink. The microwave dries them and turns the spot blue again.

Thank you for the alignment tips too, lathe usage tips will be such a big help.

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Hey @pete41194, Thanks for your considered post. I might’ve taken another approach but have no income whist my Achilles is keeping me off work.

When chiselling or hammering on the bench I always seek to do it over a leg, best place for a vice too. So I plan to place a sturdy trestle leg arrangement under the bed mounting points, rather than more widely spaced legs. (With 22” distance between the lathe riser blocks this means the legs aren’t going to be widely spaced). Then joining both ends, giving a sturdy hardwood frame and some timber on top to further support the lathe on it’s tray and risers.

I built some Japanese trestles/saw horses a few years back, I used similar reclaimed hardwood, (sapele/mahogany), that I bought for £2/ft. It’s about 3 1/2” x 2 1/2” laminated from three pieces of thinner material and was machined up as high class skirting boards. I have some reclaimed mahogany from church pews too. The saw horses worked out, I’ll take my time and build a good rigid bench. (Taking account of wood movement).

Like Bazyle said kitchen cabinet style carcass arrangements have strength and storage, likewise your mechanic’s draw suggestion, but both good suggestions would require me spending out.

Thanks for your storage ideas, I like the 3” deep drawer idea, we’ll see later if I decide to fit drawers. Best, Starjump.

[starjumpParticipant @starjump]

Thank you again Howard!

You wrote:  “….Ian Bradley’s “The Amateur’s Workshop” advises clamping down at the Headstock end and then adjusting under the tailstock.” – Great to know, thanks.  Best, Starjump.

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