Handwheels

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Graham,

 

I”ve just seen the pictures of your handwheels What to you use to fill the graduations on them, they are quite impressive?

 

Regards

 

Terry

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Graham Meek’s Handwheels for Emco Machines.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Thank You for your reply Graham,

 

I’m not sure why you were surprised by my query, I am always willing to learn from others about subjects I’m not familiar with (unlike another recent poster on this forum). I may occasionally be abrasive, even contentious, but I hope I’m not abusive.

 

Best regards

 

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 24/03/2011 21:58:27

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I read some where (maybe ME), of mixing araldite with lamp black, although it may have been for a clock dial. Gray, those handles look just like the one on my lathe, except for the graduated collars. My collars are graduated in both imperial and metric. Ian S C

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I think you will find that araldite does not stick to well to aluminium and brass , it’s similar with paint, it would be OK on a clock, no greasy fingers there. Ian S C

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Having just completed a Worden T & C, I have sharpened a couple of milling cutters but lack specific angles for the cutting edge and detail of applying the 45 degree cut back of the sharp corner of the cutting edge.

For these two cutters I used a 4 degree setting!

This was referred to by David recently, apparently reduces the damage to the corner and increases the life of the cutting edge.

Along with this, I have noticed now that the bars supplied with the Worden kit have started to show spiral markings as are referenced to in another posting about roundness of stock metal bars.

In retrospect I think I would have purchased some ground bar to replace it If I had known before hand.

 

Clive

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

During my army service I had the job of filling the engravings of the range scales of artillery weapons, (Dial Sight Carriers)

We used cellulose paint in black, blue and red to denote the cardinal markings.

We cleaned the brass with cellulose thinners and painstakingley followed every curved line to fill it.

The next day would be spent using a thinners moistened cloth to rub off the excess paint.

I cannot remember any flaking out even exposed to all weathers.

 

Clive

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

Araldite will stick OK to brass and ali, the important thing is thorough degreasing and cleaning before application. The traditional araldite sets hard and for a “potting” type application such as this is probably the better (easier) one to use, but I’ve found the “rapid” version (about half hour setting time) more tolerant of shock and possibly movement due to thermal effects. It could also be worth looking in your local hobby store for the special epoxies used for potting specimens and producing cold enameling effects as they have pigments to go with them that should be compatible.

Keith

[jomacParticipant @jomac]

Hi. When I was an engraver, we used to fill the etched out area ( name plates etc) with a hard coloured wax, when the plate was heated we rubbed the wax sticks over the area and while it was still warm rubbed/brushed off the excess. To get a very nice finish, just reheated the area only enough to smooth out the wax which finished with a medium to high gloss. the plates could then be polished and then varnished. Doing the graduation marks on a graduation dial works the same. If a hard wax is not available, try using a black candle or any other colour that looks ok. The beauty of this system is that you can melt out the offending wax on low heat, and start again, without damaging your finished , prized piece of turning. At the moment I just use a black marking pen, and when its dry rub off and polish the dials.

PS Its nice to see that 99.9 per cent of all contributers to this forum, have good sense and even better manners, although a bit of tongue in cheek commentary brings out the smiles.

Thanks for all the good info.

John Holloway

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Guys,

You might find that blacking will not stick too well in a “V” groove, but if you adopt a different approach to your engraving you might stand more of a chance. Rather than use the V tooling, I use a 10 thou thick 1″ dia slitting saw. This obviously makes a square sided groove which is much better at holding the colour, whatever type you use.. Another advantage of using a saw over a V tool is that all the lines will be the same width no matter how deep or shallow you cut them.

chriStephens

Edit, Obviously I use the mill to do the engraving, that way I can use the bed stops to govern the length of the lines. It also saves making a Radford tool, make that finish making  the Radford tool. I don’t know about you lot, but I think more professional, ie less AMATEUR-ish, to cut lines as opposed to scratching them.

Edited By chris stephens on 26/03/2011 20:07:23

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