Clarity of a “slide-rest tool holder”

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

In the article for “Roedean” regarding cutting the slots in the buffer and drag beams LBSC suggests putting the beam under the slide-rest tool holder. By this does he mean clamping it under the ordinary tool post along with a piece of metal the same thickness to equalise the clamping effect.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

At the time it was written the basic tool clamp on a typical Myford would hold the work without the need for any packing, Just imagine your bean was the boring bar in this first pic and you are cutting slots accross it. Only packing you would need is to bring the work to ctr height to avoid climb cutting.

 

But you could just as well clamp it in your toolpost if you have a 4 way or QCTP.

 

J

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

Pity the article wasn’t brought up to date

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Can’t see why it should be. As it stands its good for a beginner as it shows that you don’t need milling machines, DROs etc to be able to produce a model. The Minnie in my avitar was all done on the lathe, without articles like LBSC and LC Mason I would not have know how to go about it.

 

The way he writes is useful to anyone as there as a lot of info there that can be applied to any form of model engineering there is a lot you can do with a file – no need to reach for milling machines, rotary tables and so on.

 

J

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Posted by JasonB on 24/07/2011 12:07:18:

Can’t see why it should be. As it stands its good for a beginner as it shows that you don’t need milling machines, DROs etc to be able to produce a model. The Minnie in my avitar was all done on the lathe, without articles like LBSC and LC Mason I would not have know how to go about it.

 

The way he writes is useful to anyone as there as a lot of info there that can be applied to any form of model engineering there is a lot you can do with a file – no need to reach for milling machines, rotary tables and so on.

 

J

I have to agree with Jason, model engineering should cater for beginners, everyone’s budgets, abilities and prefered methods, so if you know a more modern way of achieving the same result, and have the gear to do it, there is no reason why you can’t use it.

 

Regards Nick.

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

Sorry but by not bringing the article up to date readers are being directed to using items that no longer exist. The “slide rest tool holder” is a prime example or using archaic terms such as rustless steel instead of stainless steel for example.

 

 

By being “up to date” does not mean that you can’t use basic methods of engineering or adaptive techniques on the lathe when you don’t posses a milling machine.

 

I’m just waiting to see how many drawings are published with missing or incorrect dimensions.

Edited By Eric Cox on 25/07/2011 09:42:29

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Guys,

Let us not forget that what we do in our home workshops is generally considered to be archaic compared to to modern industry. Knob twiddling or not using the precisely correct tool is grossly in efficient to the company accountant because it takes too long.

For our needs, as hobbyists, if we can save some money by doing a bit of milling on a lathe and thereby save buying a proper mill, then that is all to the good. Clearly the accountants have a point, if we can afford a mill, then we can work more efficiently, but not everybody can.

Knowing how to do things from first principles is going to give the “untrained” amateur a good grounding in machining. It is very much like knowing how to do arithmetic, before being given a calculator.

How often have we heard that a designer comes up with something that can’t be made because he does not know how to make things himself (does not know his first principles)?

By using amateurs methods, namely a vertical slide on a Myford, of blessed memory, there are some jobs that can be done that just can’t be done on my mill. Take drilling accurately spaced holes in the end of rectangular bars. The longest I can fit in my mill is, maybe, 6-8 inches but if I use my Myford’s vertical slide I can drill into the end of several feet of bar!

So if articles are brought up to date, are we only going to hear how to write G code? I hope not! Give me all the old ways, as well as the newer ones, to expand my knowledge, not limit it. The more you know the more you can do, and vice versa.

chriStephens

who now steps down from the soap box, so that others can have a rant, if they wish.

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Its a case of how upto date you want it. Should it all be in metric, tell us where to buy the lazer cut frames or give us pages of code so we can CNC all the parts.

 

J

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I understood that this series was intentionally going to be printed as it was originally printed, if nothing else it will give an insight to newcomers how models were made in the past, and the tooling that was available at the time. It has the potential to teach people wrangles, that they may not otherwise think of, to achieve a result on an awkward job, with limited equipment. Not everyone can afford to buy milling machines ect., not even second hand.

 

Nobody is being forced to build this locomotive; are they?

 

Regards Nick.

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