Chester Mill Question

[Tifa 8572Participant @tifa857287838]

[Tifa 8572Participant @tifa857287838]

I am considering a Chester Champion 20V Mill. (Would have preferred the 30, but space and weight is an issue…oh well)

Weighing in at 113kg, I was wondering if it is possible to break down into component parts to make moving easier without too much hassle? Was thinking separate into base/slides/pedestal and head to make it more managable in 30-35kg pieces? Then re assembe in situ.

Is anyone aware of someone who has done this please, and if so, are there any major pitfalls?

Thanks.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

I have a Warco WM16 mill which looks to be the same design as the Chester 20v.

I bought it secondhand and it was in a first floor workshop with access via a narrow staircase.

I split it into 3 parts to move it.

I removed the head in one complete part with just 3 nuts/bolts to remove. I watched this video on you tube to see how to do it. He went over the top making a block to hold it. I just lowered mine onto a block of wood on the table. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1CzlveOjWiE

Then I removed the table just leaving the base and column together. This is the heaviest part but one person can lift it though best with 2. (My son in law moved it from my car to my workshop on his own before I had chance to help!)

Myself and previous owner carried the parts down the stairs between us without any problems.

So you should have no trouble doing the same.

Stuart

 

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 02/03/2021 12:14:32

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 02/03/2021 12:15:53

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

To move the mill around, it can be helpful to remove the head from the column (screws under and inside the base of the head) remembering to support the electric controls as the head comes loose. Then the column can be unbolted from the base assembly (four hex screws from behind the base). This gives you three parts light enough to move on your own.

If the mill is new, have a good look at all the slots etc where the head is held to the column, and where the column is held to the base, and run a fine file around any sharp edges – to make setting up and adjusting easier. On mine, the location of the column seemed somewhat 'home made' and it might help to check the fit where the four big socket screws go in from the back.

When you reassemble, the column needs to be set properly vertical to the base. This is called 'Tramming', and should ensure that the head moves exactly perpendicular to the work surface – in other words, a long straight drill bit lines up exactly with its hole whether the column is at the top, or the bottom, of the available movement. I had to play for a couple of hours with bits of shim where the two parts fit together, to get mine right. Once the column itself is bang on, then you can adjust the head angle to get that upright too. Then lock the adjustment at the top right of the column. When you need to angle the head (which might not be very often) try to ensure that you only tilt the head to the left (ie anticlock as you look at it). Then you can return it to vertical if this adjustment is left in place as a stop.

There are lots of other detail mods I made – too long to list here – but send me a personal message if you need to know more.

Regards, Tim Stevens

[Tifa 8572Participant @tifa857287838]

Tim, Stuart, thank you for that.

Very much appreciated.

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