Bandsaw overhang

[Peter Ellis 5Participant @peterellis5]

I have a shortish 75mm bar I need a slice off. I am minded to bolt it to something that the vice can hold better. What would you do ?

[Peter Ellis 5Participant @peterellis5]

Vice jaws on Femi not close to blade

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

If the bar is steel weld something on the end, box section may be . Noel

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

I have a femi and have had the same problem a few times , when I get a chance a permanent solution would be using some 10mm steel plate and make some replacement Jaws that reach nearer the blade, maybe put a horizontal V groove along the fixed jaw for holding bar, as the base of the vice obviously will still be away from the blade.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

use plate/s to extend the jaws and put an equidistant support of scrap etc at the opposite side so the vice closes up parallel

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I put a piece of angle iron into the vice which supports the bottom & Back of the short stock. Angle is clamped to back jaw by the stock pushing against it, you cut through the vertical leg of the angle the first time you do it but after that just line saw slot up with blade

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

I've had the same problem many times – the movable jaw swivels when attempting to clamp short bars. No need to modify the jaw at all – just get a piece of flat bar the same length and width as the fixed jaw, and drill and tap a hole for a suitable length of threaded rod. Adjust the length of the threaded rod to hold the short bar as shown in the photo. It works perfectly.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Thanks Gary for the adjuster screw idea. I have extended my jaw to match the fixed jaw on my saw but I usually  use a couple of wedge blocks from my clamp set with the teeth to match material size but it would be easy to just tap the plate and use a screw to support the back end of the jaw.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 11/03/2021 08:29:26

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

What a good idea – why didn't I think of that!

On Chinese 6×4 types, it's not difficult to take the back plate off and fit it to the front jaw:

For holding short items, I made a clamp. Can't find the stupid thing for a photo, but it's just a flat plate about 10mm thick about as long as the width of the fixed jaw and 60mm wide, with a couple of studs to hold a bar that clamps down on the work. Crude, but quite useful.

I do like Gary's solution though – it probably grips better and with far less fuss.

Dave

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

And just because its tight doesn't always mean its secure

Give the workpiece a few good pulls in different directions to check

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

Garys holding method goes way back,the Rapidor power hacksaw in the factory where I first worked, had an accessory for holding short lengths of material ,it consisted of two malleable iron cast plates each one having two V s of differing size, plus a long threaded bolt, the two vees allowed various diameters of short stock to be held securely without tilting ,plus short lengths of flat stock could also be held,the bolt took up the gap at the other end.The Rapidor came new to the factoy so the accessories were looked after,I have seen many of these saws in dealers and at auctions ,none had the special grippers for short material.I made some of these plates for my saw using 4 x 1/2 in flat bar with angle iron welded to them to form the vees. I have often thought of making a similar vee jawed gripper for my DO ALL band saw but like a lot of things it does not get done until there is an urgent need.

[John BaronParticipant @johnbaron31275]

Posted by Peter Ellis 5 on 10/03/2021 22:17:49:

I have a shortish 75mm bar I need a slice off. I am minded to bolt it to something that the vice can hold better. What would you do ?

Hi Peter, Guys,

When I refurbished mine I made a blocking piece to fill that gap ! The short end cannot now disappear through the gap and the material is supported right to the end. However beware that very thin pieces may get dragged into the gap between the blade and guide, jamming the blade.

Before !

After !

No more lost or unsupported pieces.

[Peter Ellis 5Participant @peterellis5]

That is odd. I replied to this and now I cannot see it. The IT side does seem a bit unusual.

Anyway, thank you for the ideas. I do use a machinist´s jack to equalize the jaws, but Gary´s idea is more versatile. The Rapidor plates sound interesting and ´minding the gap´ is food for thought.

Now to find some plate. Things were much easier in London !

Cheers

Peter

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Good solution John, but I went a bit further. As the outboard platform is wider on my version, I bolted a piece of angle about 2” long there almost touching the fixed jaw . This allows a g clamp to hold very short pieces rigid It is only ever removed and reset when a rare angled cut is needed. It could still be fixed to your lower insert bar. The advantage of this is that it supports the work and removes the twisting caused by the cutting action, thus making it easier on the vice.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Light alloy grips better on steel than steel on steel so consider making your adapter from alloy or adding alloy grips at the business end.

Clive

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

I have a little block just the height of the underside of the vice, which I use to support the part being sawn, just past the saw blade. Generally works OK, but I like the other ideas!

Iain

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

I have a plate with a "V" cut in and several tapped holes. I then hold this in the bandsaw vice and hold the bar with a couple of milling clamps.

Works very well.

Jim

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Just seen another innovative ‘work-around’ on another forum.

Fit your short 75mm lump lengthways in a vise and clamp that vise in your bandsaw vise. Clearly the idea is to only cut almost to the centre and finish off with a hacksaw.

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