Search Results for 'arc euro'

[David ColwillParticipant @davidcolwill19261]

I use keyless chucks all the time and find them a great time saver. I have 3 that came from J&L and 2 from arc eurotrade. They do sometimes lock up on a drill and need " the key " to undo them. The key being a Britool filter wrench ( the type with the fabric strap) which works effortlessly every time.

David.

[John BaguleyParticipant @johnbaguley78655]

Hi Dom,

It's not common to use ball/roller bearings but I do fit them. I use drawn cup needle roller bearings which run on unhardened silver steel axles. I believe Neville Evans? used this method as well. I expect the axles and bearings to outlive me and probably the next owner as well!

You can get the larger bearings with built in seals but for smaller ones you have to add your own e.g. O rings either side of the bearings.

Arc Euro sell metric bearings and imperial down to 7/16" bore but any of the bearing suppliers will have them.

As Clive suggests though, you may have trouble fitting the bearings into the standard axle boxes – the boxes may be too narrow to take them, although the drawn cup bearings are quite thin, unlike standard ball or roller bearings, and there is no need to use a hardened inner sleeve.

My 2½" gauge Helen Long has 10mm bearings on all driving axles and 8mm on all bogie axles and is very free running. The 0-6-2 Simplex I am building also has Drawn cup bearings on all the axles.

For axles near or under the firebox I make the axles fully enclosed in a tube (like a cannon box) to keep all the grit etc. out.

John

Edited By John Baguley on 19/02/2014 10:46:07

Edited By John Baguley on 19/02/2014 10:47:34

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

4130 is, I believe know as 1.7218 25CrMo4 in europe

 

I have this site saved in my bookmarks, and find it invaluable – but I guess it depends what you do for a living!!

This link will take you straight to 1.7218 and on that page under "equivalent grades" you see ASTM4130 under the USA equivalent. To find the grade, you'll see tabs across the top, one is called "equivalent grades" select that, (know where grade your came from….) click USA for this example, and pressing Ctrl+F in your browser will usually start a search, and inputting 4130, takes you down to the bottom "SAE4130" bingo……

**LINK**

 

Edited By Russ B on 18/02/2014 20:25:53

[egaParticipant @ega]

Leadscrew handwheels are no doubt less common on larger lathes. Having been used to a Myford S7, when I got my Willson slantbed I soon missed the facility and so fitted the one shown in the picture. The leadscrew was drilled and tapped in situ with the help of a simple jig so to allow an extension to be fitted to carry the new wheel made from a redundant vee pulley with handle bought in from Arc Euro. With the saddle fully to the left I can comfortably rest my hand on the rim of the handle to put on cut. I have yet to figure out a satisfactory way to incorporate a graduated, re-settable micrometer ring.

BTW, the black appearance of the ways is due to the presence of covers made from plastic angle.

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Keith,

It is clearly a vital requirement that the horizontal axes of a milling machine must be at 90 degrees to each other within very close limits.

I think you only have two options- neither are probably very acceptable

1. Accept the error and work around it
2. Try to correct the fault yourself as Russ B did

I think Warco are now off the hook due to the timescale involved. It is a pity you only found the error 12 months after your purchase.

Your experience shows the problems associated with with Far Eastern equipment that is imported and not subjected to proper quality control procedures by the importer. Chinese manufacturer of all sorts of equipment can produced excellent things but only when they are properly controlled by the Japanese, USA or European company they are working for. Examples are "big name" computers, I Phones, digital cameras etc.

I appreciate that small UK importers do not have the same clout as large and powerful household name customers but this should mean that they put more effort into checking the quality of incoming goods even if only on a percentage basis. They appear to work on the basis of supply it as received and sort out any problems that arise.

Your experience also shows what I have always suspected that so called accuracy test reports included with these machine are not worth the paper they are written on..

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

The sieg c6 is 400mm between centres and probably a better option than buying 2nd hand

there is also the option of the long bed version at 550 mm bc.

you're not going to get much for a couple of hundred quid and with myford you will pay more for the name and unless you know what you're looking at you will end up buying junk that needs fixing or even worse is unrepairable.

My Hafco al50g is 500 bc and only 100kg and is mounted on a bench that is on wheels so I can move it around if I wish.

Yes a light machine but it does all I ask of it .

Give ARC EUROTRADE a call and check some pricing etc as you will be surprised at what you can get for a similar price as a used myford and it will be new not flogged out.

You need to be careful with how much you have hanging out of the back of the lathe spindle as it can start to wobble and end up whipping around, much better to put one end in the chuck and use a steady to support the other end for machining.

Ian

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Michael

Good advice from Mick.

The way you ask your question is like saying " I think I would like a car – which one should I buy?" It's a question that is almost impossible to answer. You must first be clear in your own mind just what you want to DO with your lathe. Do bear in mind that when buying new the cost of the basic machine will be only half the story. Chucks, tools, drills etc. etc will all need to be added in. When buying S/H you will often get useful accessories as part of the package but, against that, you will have no knowledge of the history and usage of the machine. If you are new to the game try to recruit a knowledgeable friend to accompany you on any viewings of S/H stuff.

I would, at one time, have said that going to a model engineering show to see new machines, turn the handles and chat to the stallholder ( and other visitors) was a way to get a feel for the equipment but, it seems, that suppliers attendance at shows is less frequent in recent times. One guy who does get good reports on this forum is Ketan at Arceurotrade ( see ad at right of this column) . I don't know the guy personally but when he posts here he talks good sense and might well be able to advise you in your quest.

Whatever you decide good luck in your search – you will find a lathe the most useful and adaptable of machines and, with a well equipped workshop, you can make or fix almost anything.

( I say this from the perspective of one who has just come in from my workshop where I cut off the end caps from two bamboo knitting needles, shortened the needles, drilled out the end caps and refitted them to the needles. Model engineering ?? – well no, not directly, but just think of the brownie points I gained for some future request to management! )

Norman

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

It seems that most of the comments above are in favour of having a 3D CAD capability rather than owning a 3D printer of ones own. Andrew Johnston's and John Stevenson's comments are always informative and interesting but their commercial slant is not necessarily relevant to this discussion. They can, after all, write off some of their costs against tax! It seems to me that in the hobby world 3D printing and, to a certain extent CNC machining, are an end in themselves. I have seen very little reference to the use of CNC in any of the construction articles published in ME. Comparison of the US market to the UK is difficult since the US has a much larger population, individuals generally have a larger disposible income and certainly tend to have larger workshops because of the availability of land and the way US houses tend to be built with basements. I'm no luddite – I worked very hard to get some small CNC machines (Denford) at my place of work for use in an R&D department and I would love to have both the income and space to replicate these at home, there is just so much that would be easier using CNC rather than manual methods. But, the Novaturn and Novamill with software were of the order of £12,000 each. Just at the moment even £3.5K to Arceurotrade is a bit much and I would rather be making models at the present than machines. I feel that if MEW goes too far towards the use of expensive equipment there is the risk of losing the minimill and minilathe owners who, presumably, are the future of model engineering. Even reference to a Myford lathe now seems to be considered by some to be elitist.

Just my tuppenceworth for discussion,

Rod

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

This is my first post and I really hope someone can help me please.

I suppose I'm a woodturner really but I have just bought myself an early ML7 (1950) off evil-bay just for fun. It's had some use and there is some wear on the bed near to the headstock (the sadlle begins to bid as it traverses towards the tailstock end) but it still runs well enough and is nice and quiet.

My machine has the early flat oiling points.

I haven't got a Myford pressurised oiler, yet, but seem to be able to get some oil (HLP 32 from ArcEuroTrade which I think is almost identical to Nuto H32) into the oiling points with a can pushing the ball aside.

My main problem is that I don't know how to oil the three way pulley when in back-gears – there is no oiling point on the right hand side of the pulley cluster as indicated in the later manual. I've cleaned the inside of the pulley several times and searched in vain. I've also looked elsewhere on the pulley cluster and I can't see an oiler anywhere. There is also no oil point on the back gear shaft below the spindle either which the later manual shows too.

Now, it'd be very nice if it didn't need oil but I doubt that of course

Any suggestions of what I should/could do please? Is this just an improvement on later machines? Is there anything I can do to stop wear/seizure etc?

There seems to be plenty of oil "swimming around" from the main headstock bearing oilers so perhaps it'll get there anyway?

Any thoughts and suggestions gratefully received

Many thanks

Jon

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

HOLD THE PHONE! – It seems Arc are addressing the issue directly with a reasonably price £103 kit to upgrade the small table tilt machines to rigid – so if you can live with the limited travel of that table (if that is what you have?) then it could be just the ticket – it includes the column, a new base, and all the bolts – thumbs up to Arc

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Super-X2-Mill-Spares

** do you ever wonder about "fate" – that new kit was released by Arc – just now, as we were speaking =P

Edited By Russ B on 06/02/2014 14:08:37

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Hi Becky,

you mentioned you have an X2, what is it about that mill that you're looking to upgrade or eliminate ?

Have you considered the new style rigid column, X2 from ArcEuroTrade or their lighter weight Hi-Torque X1, which is the same large 400mm table, but a 250w 5000rpm spindle (which might suit your needs!)

**LINK**

**LINK**

If I didn't just but an RF20 as it was "the right price" I would have been upgrading to their X2 (for it's wider section column and stronger 500w motor over the same table X1LP although a 5k spindle right out of the box would have been nice)

Regarding spindle speed, I would recommend something like a layshaft attached to your quill, and driven via a 5 or 10 to 1 belt drive – it's compact, cheap to make, and cheap to maintain (smaller bearings) – its limited to small cutters, but then what else would you use a 12.5k-25k spindle for on this type of machine =)

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Of course …

The return spring for a small drilling machine is likely to be remarkably similar.

MichaelG.

.

Edit:  Something like X0-15 here

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 03/02/2014 22:29:43

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

**LINK**

I have about 6 or 8 of these for small repetition work. they are one of those tools that if you gave them to 6 people they would all use them differently. I use them for holding small parts like the one the OP has posted, stops on jaws, stops on parts.

They are one of those things you wonder how you managed before.

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Alan, good afternoon.

I made my end mill sharpening fixture to use Morse 2 taper collets. And made its spindle using a modified Morse taper extension socket from ArcEuro Trade (ref. 120-020-00300) **LINK** as you can see **here** .

Dias Costa

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

Hi Steve, welcome to the grumpy old gits forum. Congrats on the new mill which looks to be the same mill as my Chester Champion 20V . All I did with my mill when I first bought it, was give it a good clean up, plug it in and start milling. I bought it about 3 years ago together with a Chester DB10VS and (although I should not tempt fate) I have had no problems with either. Apart from the essentials like a decent vice, and cutting tools, the first thing I bought was an ER32 collet chuck and a set of collets. I have since added DRO's to X & Y and a fan to the top of the motor housing. I also replaced the rather poor little spindle locking knob with an indexing lever from Arc Euro. I hope you have the same trouble free time with yours as I have had with mine which you should have as long as you don't try to take BIG cuts with it.

Cheers Derek.

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Bob, good morning.

I also bought my scales from ArcEuro Trade (the kind with remote display) and cut them with a small PROXXON angle grinder.
They work very well.

Best regards
Dias Costa

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

Thanks again chaps I've ordered the ER24 collet and some metric and imperial collets from Arceurotrade will see how I get on when they arrive.

Thanks again Al.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Alan .204 on 13/01/2014 18:56:32:

Thats a good read chaps most informative, I should have said that my mill is a Centec 2B and the lathe is a Colchester Bantam, Gary a member on this forum has nearly finished a riser block for me so height should not be a problem, so does the panel think ER32 or ER25, I will be making a collet holder for the lathe at some point so please bear that in mind.

I think only you can answer that Alan. It really comes down to the range: ER25 1-16mm or ER32 2-20mm. I use mine for all sorts of workholding, including in the dividing head on the milling machine, so this may be a factor if you have such a thing or a rotary table. The ER 32 will have a bulkier chuck, this may or may not be an issue for you. I'm sure either size will be fine.

Oh, and I completely agree with Jason on the imperial question.  I've got 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" imperial as well as the metric set (also from arceurotrade)

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 13/01/2014 19:56:26

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

ER32 Collet chucks from YSTool on E-Bay. They are marginally cheaper than CTC & seem to have the same quality. For the collets, Arceurotrade are the cheapest individual collets I have seen if you don't want to lash out for a set all in one go.

The MT4 ER32 collet chuck I got from CTC has seen a lot of work over the last 3 years and is still doing well.

Regards,

Richard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

ER collets are GOOD!

ER32 seems a bit big for a machine with a MT2 quill. You could find the nut getting in the way sometimes, and as Roderick says, it may be difficult to grip really small drill or cutters.

Years ago, when I had a ML7, and a Rodney milling attachment, I bought ER25, from Chronos, and have never regretted it. Since buying a Mill Drill, I use the ER25 collet holder in a 2 -3MT sleeve.

Although I now have collet chucks for the larger lathe, ex Warco, in ER25 and ER32 (I have just 4 collets to extend from the 16mm of ER25 to 20mm; but they are rarely used).

Also made up square and hexagon holders for ER25 and ER32, to use in the vice on the Mill/Drill.

I have made ER25 holders for Taps on a Tailstock Sliding Die Holder mandrel, and for a Floating Holder for Hand Reamers. (For machine reamers made up soft ER32 collets to take 1, 2 and 3MT shanks. Did not change the Topslide set over between boring for the collets, and turning the OD of the collets. Slitting the collets was interesting!)

For drill grinding on my Worden, I made up an ER20 holder. The 1 -13mm collets were expensive, or seemed so!

Making your own holders is a useful exercise in screwcutting.

For all these pieces, I bought the closing nuts and spanners (and the ER20 collets) from Arc Euro Trade.

Possible suppliers (take your choice) Arc Euro Trade, Chronos, Warco, Chester, and others.

Howard

[Ron ValeParticipant @ronvale24328]

ARC EURO are as good as any, and very quick service too

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

> The Chinese manufacturers are always changing their models so there is no guarantee that, even if you were to buy new, spares would be available in 5 years time.

My main use of spares has been to modify to add functions e.g. an extra handwheel that I fitted to the leadscrew. True consumables (like the toothed belt and bearings) are stock items that will still be here in 50 years time!

My Clarke Mini Lathe was bought in 1998 (so 16 years old this year) from Machine Mart. I can still do, get parts. Not long ago I bought a drive pulley for my new countershaft from Arc Euro who carry a wide range of parts, and I'm sure Machine Mart, Clarke themselves, Chester or Warco (among others) would have been able to supply.

Neil

[Geoff~Participant @geoff46085]

Does anybody have any experience of the ones supplied by ARC?

**LINK**

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 03/01/2014 10:51:28:

… Perhaps we should be looking at ways to re-engineer one of the cheap knock-offs to make it work properly.

[/quote]

This sounds like an interesting challenge, I guess it all swings on what makes a Hegner or more specifically, what doesn't !!

I've just finished a similar budget machine conversion project (£20 in materials) with a CNC'd Sieg SX1L milling machine from ArcEuro, which I ended up putting an extra £80 in to for a rigid column which I could have got by without, but it proved absolutely fantastic, it reduced deflection by a factor of 10 or more, and really just stiffened up everything, I think the tilting column was twisting and rocking in almost all axis except that in which its supposed to tilt in!

The plan was to remove the top and gearbox and fit a 250-500w brushless motor with a remote speed controller and belt drive but now I've picked up a pretty much brand new 1989 NuTools Mill/Drill (RF-20 copy) cheap, thus Sieg project is getting polished and sold as is with its std. gear box and as a manual machine but with the motor mounts, coupling hardware, and limit switches left discreetly in place should anyone ever want to go that way with it.

might bob it on the "for sale" bit here once I get it there, and I'll also be selling my manual Bridgeport – due to moving house in the next year and not having a proper size workshop anymore – I'm also trying to get it past my missus to allow me in the of the house with this stuff

– someone pinch me, I'm dreaming …..