That looks very similar, if not identical to the fence clamping arrangement on my Startrite saw bench.  Have you tried contacting any of the big woodworking machinery dealers to ask about spares?  Scott & Sargeant in Horsham come to mind and I’m pretty sure there is someone specialising in Wadkin stuff up around Amersham way.  To be honest I think you will be lucky to find a spare but I suspect it would be a fairly simple to have laser cut and welded together.

If I remember tomorrow I’ll grab some pics of my fence clamp for you.

Hi again Danni,

The AGS models  changed to a single end fence, probably in the eighties.

We had one like yours, where I worked from 1979-1989, it’s long gone now tho’.

All Wadkin spares are expensive, when you can find them.

Here is a LINK to a pdf of the manual, with the part you require on P11.

And a LINK to showing a single end version, note that HSE don’t like fences that reach beyond half the blade diameter.

Mark.

I am amazed at the damage some people can do to machines !

I have no idea how that fence could have ended up like that, but it did.

You may have difficulty finding a replacement, but it looks very similar to the fence on my Startright saw [Dealer told me never try to take it apart, since it,s like a rat trap inside ! ]

Dont understand why the HSE dislike full length fences, I have been using them for years. Providing they have clearence at the back end, there should be no fear of them binding on the workpiece.

For what it,s worth, I believe that spares for Startright machines are not too easy to find either.

Hi Danni, maybe my guy was right !

I was never brave enough to find out and hope I never have to !

Just for the record, I have a home built saw bench,60 years young at this stage, which uses a simple piece of 2″x 3/8″ flat as a fence with two small purpose made G clamps.

This is simply set up using the left side table edge as a datum  to set the fence at the front and the back and then tapping the back end out a shade to give clearance, works a dream ! Nothing much to go wrong and spares ?  no problem !

I think I would be inclined to mill each side down to about half thickness and tap for some screws. Two 5mm steel plates with the “U” shaped cutout and matching holes would not take long to make.

Does not really need the gap between the plates filling in at the bottom as you will have the two plate edges to clamp the bottom of the bar, certainly enough for hobby use.

I wondered if this is best tackled as fabrication?  Is there a sprung tongue at the bottom that captures whatever clips into the  hook.

If so, maybe two side cheeks with a spacer between that has a gap in it for the tongue and spring.  I’m guessing wildly, never looked closely at one.  The circular saw at my school didn’t have any safety features; someone had removed them!  Might have been the metalwork master – he hated teenagers!

Dave

Does the knife not get in the way when cutting grooves, tenons, halflaps ect ?

I have had a few pieces get jammed between the blade and the fence, but only when crosscutting. This can be avoided by clamping a block to the fence to provide clearance.

Around that sort of position, mainly so the strip of wood can’t get pushed into the rear of the blade which can pick it up and then as the top of the blade is moving towards the operator it gets thrown backwards.

That is another reason the knife mounted crown guards are quite good as they can prevent work lifting too far off the table. If you have acces sto a 3D printer I expect one could be printed complete with dust hose port

You could have slots in your nylon face so the position can be altered or just make a couple of different lengths.

I do prefer a full length fence when working with sheet material as it is easier to feed an 8ft length straight when there is more fence for support but don’t lock the far end. My sliding table is quite small so can’t use that to guide large sheet material.