To move the mill around, it can be helpful to remove the head from the column (screws under and inside the base of the head) remembering to support the electric controls as the head comes loose. Then the column can be unbolted from the base assembly (four hex screws from behind the base). This gives you three parts light enough to move on your own.

If the mill is new, have a good look at all the slots etc where the head is held to the column, and where the column is held to the base, and run a fine file around any sharp edges – to make setting up and adjusting easier. On mine, the location of the column seemed somewhat 'home made' and it might help to check the fit where the four big socket screws go in from the back.

When you reassemble, the column needs to be set properly vertical to the base. This is called 'Tramming', and should ensure that the head moves exactly perpendicular to the work surface – in other words, a long straight drill bit lines up exactly with its hole whether the column is at the top, or the bottom, of the available movement. I had to play for a couple of hours with bits of shim where the two parts fit together, to get mine right. Once the column itself is bang on, then you can adjust the head angle to get that upright too. Then lock the adjustment at the top right of the column. When you need to angle the head (which might not be very often) try to ensure that you only tilt the head to the left (ie anticlock as you look at it). Then you can return it to vertical if this adjustment is left in place as a stop.

There are lots of other detail mods I made – too long to list here – but send me a personal message if you need to know more.

Regards, Tim Stevens