Insane bolts giving us runaround

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Insane bolts giving us runaround

This topic has 26 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 10 August 2017 at 19:23 by Rik Shaw.

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9 August 2017 at 11:32 #311133
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
Not model engineering I know but still relevant I hope.

A friend and his men recently did me a good favour by moving and positioning my new lathe and I would like to repay the favour. In the course of his business he has to remove large bits of machinery from factories and the like. This invariably leaves redundant anchoring studs/bolts sticking out of the concrete floor. Up to now they have gas cut the studs of but increasingly the elfs will not allow the showers of sparks this involves (think food factory/refineries). The same also applies to angle grinding. So an alternative – non spark/flame – method – needs to be found.

Up to now they have been using a length of thick walled tubing and snapping the smaller diameters of but even this often leaves some sticking out of the ground. The larger diameters of course pose even more of a problem. He has asked if I could come up with an idea and make something to do the job. So, given that two (or more) heads are better than one I am looking for suggestions.

The solution needs to be as cheap and cheerful as possible. Any bright ideas?

Rik
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9 August 2017 at 11:32 #25426
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
9 August 2017 at 11:43 #311135
Martin Kyte
Participant
@martinkyte99762
Really big side cutters. Failing that, shaped demolition charges.

These would do M10.

**LINK**

or the old fallback of the good old fashioned cold chisel.

regards Martin
9 August 2017 at 11:46 #311136
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Not the cheapest but have had it done on contracts was involved with.

Diamond core drill with full water control (minimal mess) drill bit larger than the anchor and drill out a core of concrete complete with anchor still in the middle. Fill hole with epoxy floor repair concrete.

Another way depending on the anchor sysyem used and how much stud you have poking up a hydralic puller can be used if force exceeds the grip of the anchor out it comes
9 August 2017 at 11:52 #311138
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Another thought chip up a bit of the floor around the fixing then use a reciprocating saw to cut off below floor level
9 August 2017 at 11:58 #311139
John Haine
Participant
@johnhaine32865
Flush cut circular saw with TCT metal cutting blade. Try Google.
9 August 2017 at 12:36 #311146
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Alligator saw to cut down to about 1/2" or less above floor. Then drill down length of bolt to reduce volume to cut through. Finally cutting flush with floor with a hacksaw modified as you do manually with your thumbs pressing on one side of the blade so it scrapes along the floor.
9 August 2017 at 12:47 #311147
Andy Carruthers
Participant
@andycarruthers33275
Cut-off tool with shroud to prevent grinding material showering the area?

Mount the cut-off tool on an arc to cater for varying size floor bolts?
9 August 2017 at 13:07 #311149
Mike Poole
Participant
@mikepoole82104
It was common practice in our factory to over drill the holes for fixing bolts so they could be hammered into the floor when no longer required, it might be worth a bash before having to cut off the studs. Another way is to just knock the stud backwards and forwards with a hammer until it snaps, can damage the hole a bit but works well upto 12mm studs. Grinding and gas axe needed a hot work permit so anything else was quicker.

Mike
9 August 2017 at 13:12 #311150
John McNamara
Participant
@johnmcnamara74883
Hi

I Googled "concrete edge grinder water vacuum"

I have seen these in action on projects with the right wheel they will work, some have a wet vaccum to clean up the mess.
They can also be used to knock down any grouting.

**LINK**

Regards
John
9 August 2017 at 14:13 #311159
vintagengineer
Participant
@vintagengineer
Enerpac hollow jack and jack them out.
9 August 2017 at 14:15 #311160
vintagengineer
Participant
@vintagengineer
Oh, the good old Pikey keys, will open anything!

Posted by Martin Kyte on 09/08/2017 11:43:49:

Really big side cutters. Failing that, shaped demolition charges.

These would do M10.

**LINK**

or the old fallback of the good old fashioned cold chisel.

regards Martin
9 August 2017 at 14:45 #311168
richardandtracy
Participant
@richardandtracy
Most sensible thing to do: Exterminate the Elfs. Then you'll be able to go back to easy, quick & efficient bolt removal methods .

Regards,

Richard.
9 August 2017 at 14:48 #311170
David Standing 1
Participant
@davidstanding1
Posted by richardandtracy on 09/08/2017 14:45:18:

Most sensible thing to do: Exterminate the Elfs. Then you'll be able to go back to easy, quick & efficient bolt removal methods .

Regards,

Richard.

Lateral thinking. I like that
9 August 2017 at 15:01 #311172
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
Drill through the bolt turning it into a tube then use your snapper-offer tool or a cold chisel
9 August 2017 at 15:04 #311173
RRMBK
Participant
@rrmbk
Hand or power operated hydraulic cutters can be had that will cut virtually flat up to the cutting face . not cheap but very effective . used by fire and emergency services etc . **LINK**
9 August 2017 at 18:19 #311209
Martin Cargill
Participant
@martincargill50290
Big cold chisel to notch either side of the bolt then either hammer from side to side or the thick walled tube. Then hammer any stub down (assuming the bolts are not chemical type)

Martin
9 August 2017 at 18:47 #311216
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
Oscillating power saw, no sparks, swarf limited to immediate area, cuts flush with the floor, yours for 70 smackers or less. Job done,
BobH
9 August 2017 at 19:43 #311231
Flying Fifer
Participant
@flyingfifer
Padsaw handle with a hacksaw blade. Keep the blade flush with the surface with your fingers and go for it. I removed the remains of 6 x 1 inch dia studs & 6 x 1/2 inch studs this way yesterday.

Alan
10 August 2017 at 01:40 #311281
John McNamara
Participant
@johnmcnamara74883
A reciprocating saw would work also **LINK**

Very handy for demolition.

Working against concrete the flexible blades will take a pounding but they are not that expensive, they could be regarded as a consumable.

Regards
John
10 August 2017 at 04:50 #311288
Hopper
Participant
@hopper
Posted by Mike Poole on 09/08/2017 13:07:05:

Grinding and gas axe needed a hot work permit so anything else was quicker.

Hot Work Permit? Every time I hear of some elfincobblers like this I am glad I don't have to leave my home workshop anymore.

How on earth did we manufacture anything throughout the 19th and 20th centuries with factories constantly burning to the ground left right and centre due to the absence of Hot Work Permits?
10 August 2017 at 08:01 #311297
Mike Poole
Participant
@mikepoole82104
Hopper, the comical thing was you still needed one in the body in white shop with 1,100 robots spot welding all day long, you couldn't make it up.

Mike
10 August 2017 at 08:07 #311298
Roger Baker 2
Participant
@rogerbaker2
Method 1 Oxy torch, heat till red hot, Large chisel at the base, hit with lage hammer. No Sparks

Method 2 Get the elves to do it themselves.

Roger
10 August 2017 at 08:57 #311303
john carruthers
Participant
@johncarruthers46255
Diamond wire saw? I use one for cutting the studs and keys left after window and shop front removal.
10 August 2017 at 09:02 #311304
Martin Kyte
Participant
@martinkyte99762
Step 1. Wait for the elf's to trip over the studs.

Step 2. Do what you like.

Martin

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