how free moving or not

This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 14 June 2014 at 20:40 by wendy jackson.

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11 June 2014 at 13:44 #23350
wendy jackson
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@wendyjackson
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11 June 2014 at 13:44 #155025
wendy jackson
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@wendyjackson
hi chaps. I am about to but together the wheels, cylinders and motion of my B1 and have a few questions. First how free running should the motion be. should I be able to turn over the wheels freely once in the frames. should I still be able to turn over the motion and wheels freely by hand. I have had a trial fit and could not get the wheels to turn over by hand and it was a total no go with the connecting rods in place. so how free should it be.

second question. whats the best way to set the timing on a B1. I just want to be sure I have all the bits in the right way. michael
11 June 2014 at 14:25 #155028
Jo
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@jo
The wheels should spin if you flick them without the motion in place. With the connecting rods in place they should easily go round.

Rule of thumb is that all joints should be free enough that there is space for the oil, if they are tight then "the oil won't fit".

Jo
12 June 2014 at 17:09 #155129
wendy jackson
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@wendyjackson
Thanks for that, looks like I need to take a cut on the bearings. michael
12 June 2014 at 17:50 #155132
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
You need to put the right size Reamer through both bearings while they are in position, this will align them correctly. You mention that when you put the cranks on it will not turn? Here you will have to give a fair clearance in the crank bearings and ensure that the crank bearing holes have the same distance as the pins on the wheels! If not you will get binding.

Clive
12 June 2014 at 18:58 #155141
wendy jackson
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@wendyjackson
thanks clive. lots like the job will take a bit longer to sort out. michael
12 June 2014 at 20:55 #155154
Neil Wyatt
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@neilwyatt
It took me a couple of evenings to get my 0-4-0 right, and I had to remake eccentric bushes for one connecting rod to give a few thou more length. Take your time, I learned not to rush it the hard way!

Neil
13 June 2014 at 11:14 #155190
alan-lloyd
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@alan-lloyd
I think the best way to get the crankpin centres correct is to make a jig to fit the axle box holes then transfer this to the coupling rods. anyway too late now as its all quartered and glued , I agree with Neil you will now have to mess around making eccentric bushes, good luck, Alan
13 June 2014 at 22:28 #155254
stan pearson 1
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@stanpearson1
I do exactly that Alan, I only quarter the main pair of driving wheels, all engines have a Master rod which is solid and has two crank pin bushes in it, this rod can be made on a simple jig then use the jig to drill the vertical joints to exact axle centres then assemble the rods Loctite the wheels and use the rods to quarter them, had no problems with any of my 8 loco`s.

Regards

Stan
14 June 2014 at 20:40 #155313
wendy jackson
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@wendyjackson
hi chaps. thanks for the input. had a play around today and took a cut off the axles. The wheels in the frame and with one connecting rod for all three axles fitted to both sides the wheels turn OK, still need a bit of a push but do go round OK. I must say that at this point is it worth fitting real bearings to the axle boxes. This will free up the motion and reduce wear. If so can anyone point me to a good bearing supplier. it would be a pity to go to all the extra work and fit cheap far east bearings. michael
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