Are you sure the belt(s) is (are) not slipping?

Your motor is the wrong size. The 2B motor was 1 Hp. The 2A was 0.75 HP. I stand to be corrected on this but it is clearly documented, c/o Nick Farr, who provided the copy of Centec comparison for 2A and 2B machines in this thread nearly 5 years ago.

**LINK**

My 2B was sluggish until warmed up – failing to achieve full speed in high gear at times, while powered by a single phase motor, and only when cold. However a change to a very slightly more powerful motor running on a VFD sorted the issue, although a change of oil in the main gearbox may have helped. I suspect a 3 phase one horse motor would cope adequately.

I expect the problem is not apparent in horizontal mode of operation as the motor is only driving one gearbox.

Excessive greasing of the bearings may find its way into the oil, thickening it up slightly?

I reckon the oil level should be checked without screwing in the dipstick (as is the convention for most engines/gearboxes), but I find that due to the slow seepage, it is probably better to only fill to the bottom level on the dipstick and check/replenish more often.

Edited By not done it yet on 24/01/2021 19:13:01

I note you had a problem with your power feed/ converter back in 2016 How was that resolved? If changing the converter phase connections to the motor fixed that problem, I would strongly suspect the converter requires a good overhaul, particularly as changing the range has improved the start-up in higher gears.

When changing from horizontal to vertical operation, the motor/drive must be reversed. Perhaps someone has been running the vertical head in reverse (scroll seal will be obviously pumping grease out of the bearing – quite quickly if over-greased. You did not change the bottom seal, but has stopped seeping? No scroll or lip seal will prevent leakage against the pressure of a grease gun and all engines use some means of keeping the crankcase pressure close to atmospheric – to avoid oil leakage through seals.

The vertical head is quite heavy, isn’t it🙂🙂 Raising the table and use of wooden blocks on the table can reduce your risk of a hernia. Mine has a 120mm riser block to contend with – it is only replacing the head that is challenging.

Do you not use your machine in horizontal mode? I do – that was one reason for purchasing the Centec!

My vertical head tends to lose oil over long periods of non-use (the Raglan tends to be used for smaller jobs) – I don't get great globs of oil thrown out while running and I have not checked for ventilation, which I would expect to be present.

The machine is likely over 60 years old and are all spur and bevel gears, so may not be the most quiet, but I don’t find mine annoying or particularly noisy – but my hearing is not so good after 60 years of noisy workplaces and hobbies.

Pete,

One mod from the Yahoo site was using a length of threaded rod tensioned side to side to take some of the drumming out.

Top speed is direct drive and mine with a 1400 motor is not that noisy either.

Grease is only applied every 3 months of daily use.

Question: How do converters do that – I would have thought that one phase of the three would be directly from the single phase supply?

It is the spindle speed that is important re the power required – demonstrated by the ease and difficulty in the different gears. I reckon a VFD would probably work much better than a converter. Mine has a 1.2Hp motor and it can be run quite slowly, if required.

I note that some 2A machines were fitted with 2 pole motors. I’m expecting yours is 4 pole, but is it running at the ‘normal’ speeds or x2? (it is easy to get a tacho reading the wrong scale).

Edited By not done it yet on 29/01/2021 16:53:45

I calibrate my tacho against the mains frequency – so it could be easy to get it wrong by a factor of two.🙂 I hold the head tightly against any old neon, on an extension socket strip or the cooker switch, usually. Not too much error in that calibration method.

I am lucky in that I can choose to select the speed via the VFD or the variable mechanical speed control on my lathe, both while on the run. I mostly use the VFD to alter the speed – twiddling a pot is less hassle than moving a lever.🙂

Same with the mill, once in the ‘ball park’ on the gearbox. The mill power feed is also running on a VFD, so between that lot I can usually easily find a good setting for best cutting with minimum chatter. I do have to remember to stop the feed before the cutter.🙂

Three of mine are pedigree chinese mongrels🙂 Cheap and cheerful, but as I never leave the machine unattended their shortcomings are not a problem for me. The other two in use are probably of better pedigree.

I also generally use heavier milling cutters so no real problems – yet – the power feed is only about half power (a 240 VFD driving the star wound feed motor) and is often running at less than 50Hz, so complains before trying to break anything. There is a shear pin in the power feed which I have only changed a couple of times.

Once you have made up a pendent control (or have one to copy) the rest are easier.

I have to remember to change the spindle direction at first start-up when I’ve changed from vertical to horizontal – or is it the other way round – on the Centec. The two Raglans and the surface grinder don’t have that to think about.