Knurling Wheel ‘Pins’

[HasBeanParticipant @hasbean]

Gents, after a bit of advice here.

I started making a Hemmingway knurling tool shortly after my daughter was born and seeing she starts her A level courses next week I thought it was time to get on and finish it!

I'm at the stage of making the pins that the knurls rotate on but can't decide on what to make them out of.

The plans call for hardened silver steel but I have heard (can't remember where from) that this may not be a good idea? Also I've read of them being made from 'plain' silver steel, old threaded endmill shanks (already threaded the frames so don't really want to try that), ordinary mild steel or bronze (I presume phosphor bronze).

It won't get a huge amount of use but I'd rather that I'd not have to make up new pins on a regular basis

Any suggestions would be much appreciated,

Paul

[HasBeanParticipant @hasbean]

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

I made mine out f silver steel and never got around to hardening them..but then i've only used the knurling tool once in the 4 mths since i made it..so wear isn't likely to be an issue..

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Have worn mine with 20% step now a few years use though

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Maybe use commercial purchased dowel pins? They are available in many sizes inch and metric, are relatively inexpensive, accurately ground, hard on the outside and tough on the inside, and always available. I used them in my homebuilt knurling tool with no trouble. Good luck, JD

Alternately, drill rod / O-1/ silver steel would work fine too.

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

I used the shanks of broken taps, no problems so far.

[Grizzly bearParticipant @grizzlybear]

Hi HasBean,

How about a 'Roll pin'

**LINK**

Regards, Bear..

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Commercial dowel pins are your best option.

Tony

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

The ones I made with bronze pins show little wear after some 15 years of very occasional use.

I have a single wheel straight-in knurl I made that has done just 2 or 3 heavy jobs (e.g. knurling 2 1/2" steel). the temporary half-hard HSS drill shank spindle wore quite badly and I have fitted a bronze spindle to it.

Neil

[HasBeanParticipant @hasbean]

Thanks for all the replies gents,

I like the idea of dowel pins but as I'd like to be able to swap the knurls for different types I wonder if they'd become loose over a period of time? (Also I haven't found anyone yet who sells imperial pins that will post to Jersey).

I do have both silver steel and phosphor bronze so if you think that either of those will do I'll probably go down that route, I wasn't sure if un-hardened silver steel would be up to it (my resident blowtorch has died and the household financial controller has deemed it to be low on the priority list)!

Once again thanks for the replies,

Paul

[Mick HenshallParticipant @mickhenshall99321]

For what is worth I made my knurling tool some years ago and have used it on numerous occasions with no problems using m6 bolts, there could be a problem running up to a shoulder but so far so good

Mick

[Mick HenshallParticipant @mickhenshall99321]

Hopefully her is a photo of knurler plus a hand held my Gramps made many moons ago

Mick

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

If using tough/hardened pins, you will not get wear between the pin and knurl. If the pin rotates in the arm, it will be the arm that wears.

So, if it is not specified on the drawing, ensure you secure the pins from rotating, e.g. by grub screws or threading and nutting the pins to the arm and then you are free to use whatever material you have to hand. Making up new pins, if required will only take minutes.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Rollers from needle roller bearings work well. Ideally, a bronze bush in the knurling wheels is a good idea (or cast iron).

Ian S C

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