julius de wal bean engine

[joseph tatlerParticipant @josephtatler55359]

hi

building  the a balanced beam steam engine from drawings by julius de wal from the internet.

this is a metric version of the 1959 model engineer engine.

I am having difficulty understanding the steam engine assembly .

has anyone ever built this  and if so can they help in this issue. There seems to be little info on how to fix the vale to connect up to the cylinder

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I’ve not seen anyone build the ME beam to his drawings and as he does not build them himself you may have a problem if it is actual construction though if you can be more specific I should be able to get close.

Is it the actual assembly of the parts to get the movement of the eccentric along the engine then upto the top of the cylinder and down again to the valve you are having problems with?

Try this video as you can see a lot of the parts in the simulation

 

[joseph tatlerParticipant @josephtatler55359]

Hi thanks the cyclinder  seems to show that the steam or compressed air enters the top and then bottomm but the drawing seems vague as to the fixing of the valve assembly to the outer casing of the piston housing..

 

tried to attach the drawing but i cant seem to send the individual page sorry if i seem so vague but everything elseem straight forward( he said lol)

 

Thank you so much for the video and the time you took to resoind it was so kind thanks

 

Joe

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I cannot see an acyual material specified for the cylinder parts but Julius usually goes with aluminium and this seems likely as he has the bronze liner.

After turning the cylinder part of the two decorative beads are milled away to leave a 20mm gap. On the passage block part 1-07.2 the inner surface is cut to a radius so that it will fit closely to the cylinder. Due to it being aluminium you will have to bond the two parts together with an epoxy. My choice would be J B Weld which is very strong and can easily withstand steem temperatures. Just make sure you use the “original formula.

If you are using another metal that can be soldered then that is another option

Drawing

I don’t know how far you have got but an alternative to milling away the beads which will be difficult to get into the corners without cutting th emain diameter is to just turn a plain cylinder and make the beads as separate parts which can have the 20mm gap lilled and then a fine saw cut will allow then to be opened up so they can be bonded around the cylinder

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The drawing showing the end of the cylinder has a grey shaded area that is 10mm wide (5+5) and 5mm deep, this detail is at both ends.

This will leave a hole in the side of the cylinder that will allow steam/air to enter via the 10mm wide slot cut into the curved face of the passage block. It is not easy to see the slot on the drawing as the top view is quite crouded and the side view is confusing due to the hidden detail. These photos are of another engine that I made may make it clearer though I had a flat joining face. If not just ask and I will draw it in 3D.

 

 

[joseph tatlerParticipant @josephtatler55359]

Jason

that is really helpful and lears up a lot of the issues.

 

thanks so much

 

joe

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