Flat bottom holes

Flat bottom holes

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  • #76711
    Tony Martyr
    Participant
      @tonymartyr14488
      I have never been able to get a decent flat bottom to a hole in a bronze valve casting using a home-made D-bit, chatter or an undulation has resulted. The next job I have to do is not a blind hole (more difficult) but a 9/322 flat bottom hole with a 5/32 through drilling into which the 45 deg valve spindle head screws. Having given up on D bits I think I will buy a 9/32 slot milling cutter to do the job in an expensive bronze casting.
      Is this sensible?
      Tony
      #5716
      Tony Martyr
      Participant
        @tonymartyr14488
        #76715
        David Littlewood
        Participant
          @davidlittlewood51847
          Tony,
           
          I have used slot drills before to make flat bottomed holes; it works quite well provided the component itself is pretty solid and cannot bend. If the component has a through hole, you could use a spot-face cutter instead. For flimsy components such as O gauge coupling rods (in which I needed to make a recess for a retaining bush) they have the advantage that the component will not shift and cause a spoiled job. With a substantial item, the slot drill should be fine.
           
          David
          #76732
          JohnF
          Participant
            @johnf59703
            Hi Tony,
            Its worth buying a 3 flute slot drill they are stiffer and more stable when cutting so less likely to chatter.
             
            An FC3 cutter would probably fill the bill–try J & L Tools they someitmes have them on offer http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/cgi/insrhm
             
            John
            #76735
            Terry Lane
            Participant
              @terrylane
               
              I’ve always had much better results with an ordinary ‘D’ bit rather than end mills/slot drills tho’
              #76741
              Anonymous
                Conversely, I’ve never had a problem using slot drills in the lathe and vertical mill to make flat bottomed holes.
                 
                The only caveat I would add is that in bronze a positive rake slot drill may have a tendency to get dragged into the work, in similar fashion to a twist drill. This can be ameliorated by ensuring that the setup is rigid and, more importantly, keep the feedrate up. Use a fairly aggressive feedrate, stop at depth and immediately back out.
                 
                Regards,
                 
                Andrew
                #76779
                colin hawes
                Participant
                  @colinhawes85982
                  Tony please note that slot drills are not ftat on the end but relieved to their centre to aid their guidance.To get a flat bottomed hole means regrinding a slot drill’s end.
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