Search Results for 'arc euro'

[mike mcdermidParticipant @mikemcdermid41977]

I like John ponder what is next ,Progress means your generation and mine will be a curious antiquity

Model engineering at the moment will move into the realms CNC as industry starts to move away and use more modern technology Machining lumps of metal is wasteful and needs skills there is already a massive massive discrepency as those skills dissapear (i work in one of europes most advanced manufacturing centres for this stuff and if some had their way composites and plastics are far better choices) they need to be taught ,only recently have University training colleges been set up here ,but its a bit late as over the last 20 years there have been no apprenticeships ,well in the sense of time served and such

The next generation will not learn engineering as we define it

They wont even have a use for CNC companies will buy a design from company A pay for it and print it either themselves or via company B ,

I dare say model engineers or those hobbiests of a mechanical ilk will buy the design and print it from an itunes like app store or you will become a designer for others to print your wor Its much the same as it is now when a drawing gets printed in MEW issue ??? but we wont be reading a drawing and machining it

I agree with harold to some degree but not in others i have a Hurco VMC here in the shop and for some things it takes no longer to do the cam set up on the computer program and run the Job even for very simple things , however there are some things it is just easier to do manually Its certainly no slower to , people wonder why there are old manual machines in my shop ,there seems to be this middle ground of hobby CNCs which in all honesty I frown upon as toys, sure they are computer controlled and they cut metal but thats where the similarity stops,

We are not there yet printed parts are still very poor at holding tolerance but it is coming, I dare say the generation after that will probably not 3d print an object ,a machine that arranges atoms will just materialize the product from a pallette of chemical elements, that last sentence isn't a technology my imagination just came up with, now imagine how tight a tolerance you can get with atoms

MOST importantly however ,sometimes its just nice to make things by hand the old way?,if history serves even archeologists dig up things from 100s of years ago,that people have made by with their hands, i hope its just human nature

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Alan,

Is your sizing accurate? The normal thread for these is 1/4" BSP which is 19tpi and 0.518" OD.

Or it could be 1/2 BSP which is 0.825" OD and 14 tpi, or even 5/8 BSP which is 0.902" and 14 tpi.

BSP sizes refer to the standard pipe bore, not the outside diameter which can be confusing.

Coolant hose at Arc Euro

Neil

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 09/09/2013 21:17:22

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Arc's site give sthe basics, the two ranges against the sizes are because the smaller sizes go in 0.5mm steps and the larger in 1mm steps.

For accuracy on a shaft then turn between centres or just buy PGMS (prceision ground mild steel)

For accuracy on bearings turn OD and ID at one setting and then part off, no need for collets

Also look at the accuracy of the collets you are buying as Jo pointed out earlier, for example J&L/MSC sell three qualities, on teh ER32 these are standard 0.01mm, Super 0.005mm and Din 6499 0.02mm. As you can see with the Din ones you will be hard pushed to get your 10microns. Thats why some ER32 collets sell for £4.99 and others £30plus

Edited By JasonB on 06/09/2013 20:48:52

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

I've made two ER25 collet holders, the latest from an oversize MT3 blank arbor from Arc Euro Trade. The runout using one of tyehir standard collets is within the spec for the collet itself.

Neil

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

After a clamping set (I got mine as discount when I bought my Mill), a small fly cutter, with a suitable draw bar. Arceurotrade have two sizes of blocks, they are metric 10 – 20 – 40 and 20 – 40 – 80, and these seem to me quite cheap at 12 and 18 pounds per pair. V blocks are also handy. Ian S C

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Ady,

the block yo found on ebay seems Ok, but I haven't tried the RDG one. If you want something even cheaper a piece of 12 to 15mm steel the size of your table with holes drilled and tapped in it (for the top). Use four pieces of 25mm rod of equal length as spacers. Drill through and clamp them and the top to the table with long bolts or similar. A MT 3 collet will get you started, but if it is a problem to "reach fown" to the table you could buy an end mill holder.

Thor

[MM57Participant @mm57]

Excellent – thanks for all the advice and the welcome.

Looks like Sieg Super X3 (R8/belt drive) rather than Optimum BF20L (MT2/gear wheel drive) then, and live with the reduced Y axis travel…I called Arc Eurotrade and they are expecting "loads of" Sieg SX3 with R8 to be in stock in October.

[Scottmk1Participant @scottmk1]

I recently got one of Arc Euro Trades screwless vices, it is excellent value for money. Its well made and works very well.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Ronan,

RDG have Vertex vices in several sizes. My experience with Vertex is good, reasonable price an Ok quality. Arc have "screwless vices" in several sizes.

Thor

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

The above are now back in stock at Arc at the very reasonable price of £6.80

ER32 Collet Nut with Ball Bearing

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Roger, good evening.

Please see here **LINK** . It's a simple feeding system for a small milling machine but perhaps it has all you need for your lathe. It's made with a simple and cheap stepper driver **LINK**, a stepper motor bought from ArcEuroTrade **LINK** (ref. 160-010-00400) and some adequate power supply.

I'm just a satisfied customer from the companys referred.

Hope this helps
Dias Costa

Edited By dcosta on 02/09/2013 22:23:12

[MM57Participant @mm57]

Ah – I see the light

I didn't realise my chuck tapers were push fit at the chuck end until I looked more closely and for example on my big Jackson chuck the taper is marked MT2/3JT on the tang…well they appear to be push fit, no idea how to get them out, they're in there good and proper..any ideas?

…and I see a whole new type of tooling I'd never realised existed before, e.g.:
**LINK**
including MT2 drawbar to various JT sizes

I'm considering a Optimum BF20L, ultimately for CNC conversion as it's pretty much an American G0704 and there's load of info about that on t'Internet – but it's MT2 (really wanted R8) and its gear-drive (really wanted belt drive), so not quite fitting the bill right now…it's just got more Y travel and allegedly more rigid than Sieg SX3 with R8/belt drive..any comments on that particular hornet's nest (!)?

[Chris ParsonsParticipant @chrisparsons64193]

Jason U – I smiled and then thought good point, most of my 'stock' is round bar!

Michael – I am going to have a go at making a 'split' vice as in Howard Hall's book so I can mount work directly on the table, and hold off on the commercial vice – they are expensive (looked at a Vertex VA4 but think it might be too big for the table?) Already got a flycutter on a straight shank but may eventually get one with a taper. Got cutting fluid (use it on lathe and bench drill) Got parallels but good point about packing – might also make some of my own clamps/fences (good practise)

Good source for quality cutters? With no experience it's hard to judge good or bad…most of the stuff I get from Tracy Tools seems OK?

Jason B – Already got a dial indicator, DTI and an edge finder but not centre finder (yet) Bought a mount to fit the DTI to the quill (looks like an Indicol?)

Geoff – comes with a drill chuck fortunately (one less thing to buy)

George – got an ER32 set from ArcEuroTrade with chuck and 6 collets in case – 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 and 20mm? Rotating tailstock center??? I have one for the lathe but it's MT2, what would I use this for on a mill? Oh, and the mill is a Sieg SX3

Thanks for all the suggestions, if you don't ask you never learn

One other thing is the issue about clouting the drawbar to get the (MT3) taper out – been trying to visualise the various posts about self extracting drawbar modications

I went for MT3 in the end so I could use the tooling on the lathe

Cheers

Chris

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Ady,

As you have the larger CL500, I'f suggest getting an ER32 collet set. ER collets work well for holding work and for holding cutters, and as they have an 'Extended Range' of 1mm per collet, you don't need a fortune to buy a full set of collets.

30INT is a type of taper, I suggest you look at an ER32 collet chuck with an MT3 taper.

The drawbar supplied with the drill chuck will probably be M10 or M12 (metric) or might be 3/8" Whitworth (Imperial). Try it with an M10 or M12 nut. It's easy enough to make a new drawbar from studding if the collet chuck comes with a different thread.

You could look at one of these sets as a starter

Neil

[mick70Participant @mick70]

for anyone that as the clarke cl430 lathe and wants a qc toolpost the arceurotrade one for the c6 fits lovely.

only thing you need to do is put thinner washer on it.

just got one this morn as early birthday pressie from kids.

[dave greenhamParticipant @davegreenham19379]

Hi gguys has anyone got or used the rocker tool holder sold by Arc eeuro if so, what do you think to it ?

good points and bad

regards

dave

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Rick,

about an hour ago I posted a message with some pictures pasted in and it didn't appear so I'm using the reference method to the picture in an album.

In my previous message I told you the aluminium profile was a U shaped. I made a mistake. It is an almost L profile shaped.

Also in my previous message I wrote the DRO were bought from ArcEuroTrade. I was wrong as can be seen in the displays. But as much as I know the Warco company doesn't sell this items presently.

I think you can benefit from the observation of the following pictures. X_Axis (and part of Y_axis):

Y_Axis:

Remote display:

Hope this is of some help
Dias Costa

 

Edited By dcosta on 22/08/2013 15:36:58

[jason udallParticipant @jasonudall57142]

Just my opinion
The heat in this thread ( and “new website templates”) is probably due partly to the “unrest” thar the new subs/. Demise of the free archive, has stirred up , coupled with the frustrations of the forum software……
If the content of the facebook page is going to continue in the vein it has so far.. ( advertising bill board)..then the regulars here can safely ignore it.
If the publishers think that advertising to hopefully a much wider audience via social media will be less trouble than the maintance ( yes I am sure there is some even if it doesn’t always show) of this site/forum then maybe thats for them to judge. .I do wonder just what arceuro as sponsors think.

Edited By jason udall on 22/08/2013 15:20:35

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Rick, good morning.

I know that I am not responding to your request for help but I think it is significant that follow tell you.

I have a milling machine (Optimum BF20 Vario) which is similar to yours and I do not not use pumped cooler in it.
But the first attempt to fit inexpensive DRO in it, one of those which have the display on the scale, had the problem of penetration by oil and chips even with a protective aluminium angle profile.
Then I found the ArcEuroTrade DRO that doesn't have the display on the scale and has the cable that communicates with the remote display coming from a completely closed box, permitting the cable going to the remote display to be oriented in such way the gravity helps preventing the oil or swarf to enter (the box is completely closed).
Complementing with a protective U shaped aluminium profile (with one leg shorter to allow passage of table fastening screws) never more had problems with DRO being affected by swarf or by oil.
Let me say to you that the ArcEuroTrade DRO always worked perfectly. Please see **LINK** .

Nothing connects me to ArcEuroTrade (except being a satisfied client)

Hoping I have helped
Dias Costa

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

Hi folks. I agree with all the comments about "facefingy" and "twaddle" BUT not about "men sheds" Age UK run "Men in Sheds" in a number of areas in the north west. I am a volunteer at the Crewe shed,where we have well over a hundred chaps (55 or older) who attend on a fairly regular basis. We mainly do woodwork, but recently bought a seig SC3 from Arc Euro as did the Northwich "shed" and quite a few of those who attend are keen learners. I know of two other "sheds", one in Chester, and one in Ellesmere Port. All are thriving workshops.

Cheers Derek.

P.S. Google Men in Sheds/UK

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

There is Chester Machine tools and Axminster and a couple more I can't remember the names of who do a similar range of machines. Then Amadeal and ArcEurotrade each do slightly differnet machines.

Many almost identical apart from the paint colour but sometimes have names designed to look like the higher specification of a competitor. Also check the details of delivery charges and affers. If two identical machines appear to be the same apart from extras it might be a misprint. The standard accessories seem to be 3 &4 jaw chuck & faceplate, both steadies and plain centres. Rotating center and drill chuck are not standard so are a bonus if included.

But you have a lot of other threads to read on this site on this subject to catch up on too.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Big H

You pose a bit of an impossible question really. My own experience of home workshop lathe ownership over some 40 years is only of Myford all bought S/H ( ML4 old, worn but useable, ML10 lightly used but with some limitations and my current Super 7 which, although S/H, is in very lightly used condition.) All these were suitable for my requirements at the time I bought them. If I was starting out again and seeking new I might well look at chinese machines.

You say that your interest is small engines and workshop equipment so a large lathe is not essential and, as long as you are sure that your interest will remain thus, then that's OK. Remember that buying the lathe is only the start and chucks, tool posts etc can all add to the cost. I think, in your place, I would want to consider the supplier. I don't know him personally but Ketan from Arceurotrade has often posted here and he seems to be a knowledgeable and straight guy. Why not give him a call and discuss your requirements with him ? I feel sure he would advise.

As far as the best time to buy I'm not sure that is quite as critical as it used to be. At one time the shows were the best place to strike a bargain but my impression now is that margins are tighter and the costs to dealers for attending the shows eats into their profit margins. I know from past experience that when buying a machine it is often possible to get good deals on accessories ( chucks, vices, cuttung tools etc.) if bought at the same time and that is worth considering.

Whatever happens – an exciting prospect for you – good luck in your quest.

Regards

Norman

[GaryMParticipant @garym]

Posted by Big H on 14/08/2013 15:12:25:

……Does anyone have any recommendations for Super C6 variants and when/where to buy one?….

How about

**LINK**

Metric out of stock at the moment though.

Gary

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

DS. It would be interesting to hear a bit more about your experience of engineering & modelling in India. Are you a hobbyist, a small machine shop, or perhaps in education? Are there any tool shops around? Are there improters of Chinese made lathes and mills that are now dominating the European market?

Back to subject: If you search for the UK firm Chester Machine Tools, download their catalogue, and look for "Model T universal milling machine"
It is a combined horizontal and vertical machine (clone of the old Elliott Omnimill which was briefly rebadged by Southbend in the USA) and uses a 30int arbor. As this is a Chinese mill it might be available from importers in other countries and thus provide a route for spares.
The Chinese manufacturers can be found by searching things like "universal horizontal vertical milling".