He does turn a spigot on the superglue chuck that fits in the flywheel hole so that should stop it flying off sideways.

he must also be able to get better superglue over there than the watered down rubbish on sale here.

Roy.

You have to understand the risks and operate accordingly. There is a chance of the part becoming detached, so make sure you aren't in the potential line of flight, or arrange protective guarding. Be aware that although superglues can be very strong they generally have poor impact resistance – interrupted cuts may be asking for trouble. High temperature will degrade the bond too, so take care the work doesn't get too hot.

Doesn't seem so very different from old fashioned shellac chucks. Follow instructions for the glue carefully to ensure a good bond (cleanliness etc.).

Hi, after watching these videos on clock making I superglued my clock wheel onto a rotary table to cut the gears, after 3 teeth the wheel flow of across the workshop, after 3 more attempts with a top rated superglue it happen again so I stopped and made a mandrill for the RT. I have made other superglue chucks for the lathe which worked better but the big problem was removing the superglue from the part, I tried every solvent made and still it wont come off, the part is still on the shelve. In the world of clockmaking super glue chucks are common in the US but not so much over here, the clickspring videos must the best ever made on you tube, puts all mine to shame. I am building the same clock as chris and thinking about redoing some parts as his are so good.

If in doubt reduce the speed. The energy stored in the rotating part depends on the square of the speed so, if the speed is kept down the potential for damage if the glue breaks is reduced.

Russell.

The trouble with glue is that you have to get everything right and any deviations weaken the bond. I've had good results from superglue metal to metal chucking BUT:

• Everything has to be scrupulously clean
• Superglue has a very short shelf-life. Best to use new glue and use it up quickly.
• The materials being glued have to be compatible (as per the instructions)
• The bond is destroyed by heat. As cutting makes metal hot, you have to take care not to cook the joint.
• Gentle cuts – Superglue joints have low sheer strength.
• Gaps weaken the joint.

I've convinced myself that it helps to breath on the glue film just before making the joint. Could be imagining this!

A successful superglue joint can sometimes be broken with a sharp sideways tap and/or after a soak in Acetone Nail Varnish remover. I usually heat the item with a blowlamp (to something over 100C for a few minutes, not red-hot), and then – gloves on – tap it sideways with a hammer. Delicate parts I've done on an electric cooker ring. This is turned off as soon as the part gets too hot to touch, left a few minutes and then prised off while still warm. Rarely works first time for me – repeat heating as necessary.

Dave

At the risk of going against the flow, they work superbly for clockmaking.

The issue is that the superglue is only effective at any air interfaces between the two materials and as mentioned cleanliness is essential. The earlier mentioned moisture from breathing on the glue is relevant.

Clockmaker Bill Smith suggested making a number of groves on the face of the 'chuck' to increase the number of air interfaces. See below. The superglue is painted onto the flats but not excessively and the clock wheel pressured into place using a centre in the tailstock and held as such for 5 minutes or so.

I have successfully machined some large diameter wheels using this technique from what were initial very horribly hacked profiles. Lots of ting ting tinging from the cutter but no BANG and duck.

The bond is a 'bu~~er' to break afterwards and needs a torch flame to part the 'chuck' and wheel.

Health and Safety on the fumes duly noted.

I just looked at his vid. I note the correctly sized arbor to remove any radial displacement. I note his glue is at the periphery, where it will set and there is a finite glue thickness. I also note that all cuts were made such that the item could not fly off and go into orbit without breaking the arbor. That is except the final chamfer on the back side of the flywheel outer edge.

Seems safe enough. Light cuts with a sharp tool and keep out of the line of fire, should anything go wrong (it can happen). An appropriate anaerobic loctite, and leave for long enough to cure, might be another/better alternative to pound shop glue.

If you are still overly hysterical, then use a longer arbor and thread it for a holding nut? Drill through (where one or more of the final holes were going to be positioned) into the holding mandrel, thread and screw in some brass threaded rod. Lots of ways to go OTT on the safety aspect, if you are that worried, I am sure!

I've started using a hot air gun, or even the rework gun for small parts l- less chance of collateral damage!

Neil

Is that the type used for stripping paint Neil? I've got one somewhere and never thought of using it on superglue.

I must be getting old-fashioned. Although I've done a lot of soldering I've always thought of rework guns as a passing craze. Now I've done some research I want one for Christmas!

Dave

Buying it from an industrial supplier means you get a much higher quality product than is available in the high street, and you get to pick a grade that is suitable for the job. Even using an expensive company like Wurth is far better value than most retail shops.

Or leave it to soak in acetone ( nail varnish remover ) overnight softens the glue drastically or removes it .

Careful not to ruin your nails though